ReSaw Sled - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 40 Old 12-11-2009, 07:57 PM
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The sled design probably serves the purpose for testing the of the saws however it is not as useful for general work.

The problem is that it is not readily adjustable for blade lead.

There are a number of thinks that you can do to negate blade lead especially for resawing. You can decrease or negate blade lead with the following techniques:

1. A sharp blade with the correct pitch and tooth design.
2. Wheel alignment and tensioning (I use the gauge but set it one mark
higher as the blade dulls.
3. Angling the top wheel or changing the fence to match blade lead or used a
curved resaw guide.
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post #22 of 40 Old 12-12-2009, 10:37 AM
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Thanks for the info

I can't believe I still have all my fingers
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post #23 of 40 Old 05-11-2010, 03:42 PM
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dudeman, I've been bitten by the bug to mill some of my smaller logs, and as it turns out I have the G0555 already, so this thread is seriously pertinent!

I didn't see you mention what size blade you were using for that. I know 3/4 is the max size, but I've seen some say that it's better to go with 1/2".

Can you tell me the exact timberwolf blade you were using for that?

I noticed the end cracking in some of the logs you were sawing...had those logs sat out for extended time before you sawed them?
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post #24 of 40 Old 05-11-2010, 06:45 PM
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I use a rail/sled like this to rip 24" logs up to ten feet long with this simple set-up that collapses against the wall when not in use. It cost less than $200 and I've used it for six years now; still going strong. It helps to have a 16" cut depth but you don't have to fit the entire diameter between the wheels; the log can hang outside until you get it squared off. All done with a jig saw and some aluminum extrusions. Not near as difficult as some of the furniture you guys build. The plans are in my book.
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post #25 of 40 Old 05-15-2010, 10:37 PM
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dudeman that is special. I'm deciding on whoetehr or not to pick up a grizz 0513 and this made up my mind. If I can put together a system even half as nice as yours, I'm in for years of fun. Nice job
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post #26 of 40 Old 07-12-2010, 10:50 AM
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Bandsaw blade for resawing gren wood

To: Dudeman555,

I saw your resaw sled and it is pretty much the same as the one I made. I have problems cutting green wood from 3' felled trees. At times it cuts pretty good and other times it bogs down and stop the saw. I am using a Grizzly 2HP 14" saw which had the power. It cuts dry logs fine.

What type of blade are you using?
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post #27 of 40 Old 02-28-2011, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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To all, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I moved to another state and have been preoccupied.The blade I'm using here is the Timberwolf 1/2", 0.032 Thickness, (AS = ALTERNATE SET). The difference is in the blade for sure!
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post #28 of 40 Old 03-06-2011, 11:51 PM
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Question, what do you use to keep the log from moving? I tried to resaw a small log with a smaller than yours sled, and because I was holding it free hand, as I was pushing it through, it twisted just a little but enough to snap the blade off of the saw and bend it beyond use.

If ALL else fails, go by the numbers...
#1) find the directions....
#2) If found, then read the directions....
#3) Then pray they make sense
Pete

Last edited by repeters; 03-06-2011 at 11:54 PM.
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post #29 of 40 Old 03-06-2011, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repeters View Post
Question, what do you use to keep the log from moving? I tried to resaw a small log with a smaller than yours sled, and because I was holding it free hand, as I was pushing it through, it twisted just a little but enough to snap the blade off of the saw and bend it beyound use.

I run screws through the sled.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #30 of 40 Old 03-06-2011, 11:59 PM
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I thought of that but didn't want to put holes in the log.
Now I guess it would be cheaper than replacing the blades all the time.

If ALL else fails, go by the numbers...
#1) find the directions....
#2) If found, then read the directions....
#3) Then pray they make sense
Pete
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post #31 of 40 Old 04-19-2011, 09:37 PM
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dudeman what size band saw is that?
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post #32 of 40 Old 04-19-2011, 09:42 PM
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Not Dudeman

Quote:
Originally Posted by MidGAOutdoor View Post
dudeman what size band saw is that?

It is a 14" with a 6" riser block.

Scott
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post #33 of 40 Old 04-21-2011, 03:11 PM
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Sorry for focusing on the saw. I've been debating which one to buy and this got me thinking. I was under the impression that a 1HP wouldn't cut something this thick? Is the bade guide post still stable with the extension? I'll likely only use it for 4x4 legs and resawing 8/4 stock for bookmatching.

Thanks
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post #34 of 40 Old 10-19-2016, 03:33 PM
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Wink

I just recently completed the third generation prototype of a 14” industrial floor-standing vertical veneer resaw capable of consistently producing potato-chip thin veneers up to 18” wide and starting to try it out . It uses two of the Iturra yellow springs mounted tandem on a lever action tensioner that rolls on bearings to eliminate friction and take any slack out of the blade instantaneously (like race car suspension). This miraculously eliminates all flappage and consequently eliminates almost all traces of bandsawn “texture”. Wood comes out looking like it’s been planed. It uses 1” 2TPI Lennox carbide-tipped blades to cut 18” Doug Fir like hot butter through a knife. With 3/32” of kerf it has no set angle but clearly defines its own blade lead. I draw that angle across my table and clamp my rail parallel to it by whatever increments I want to slice. The rail consists of two parallel lengths of aluminum angle screwed to plates at each end. The carriage is a bit more involved but it rolls on patio door rollers and feeds material through the blade exactly the way you line it up and it has several options for clamping wood on the sled.. The resulting cuts are unbelievable, so I won’t ask. You just have to see it for yourself. You’re welcome to visit my shop and see for yourself how sweet a band saw can truly be when you research band saws and do it right. It also makes neat band saw boxes if you put a narrow (1/2” or less) blade. 18” Deep band saw boxes. I call it “Slicer”. The table is 36” x 48” x 32” high; the wheels are “Ridged” alum 14”; the motor is 2HP-220V. I’m 75, trying to retire, so these will probably never be produced for sale unless someone takes over for me.
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post #35 of 40 Old 01-31-2019, 11:09 AM
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Hope you are still out there Dudeman555. Just built your bandsaw sled with the roller wheels. Your photos guided me through the build. You covered all bases: stability, easy adjustment of log placement, ease of attaching screws to hold the log, and lastly the incredible roller wheel idea. As you did, I was able to push log through using only one hand. I didn't build the table, but substituted a Husky adjustable height 46" work table. (I love it!). I placed some appropriate size blocks under the roller table. Then raised the table to put everything in alignment. The Husky is on 3" wheels so I can use it easily. Building a long table would just have been a storage problem in my already crowded garage workshop. Thank you so much for making it so much easier to make lumber out of a large number of oak logs, all 30" of less. I'm 84 y/o retired doctor. Always loved working with wood. Making lots of gifts
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post #36 of 40 Old 02-01-2019, 01:36 AM
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Sorry about being so slow to post these pics but it's getting harder and harder to navigate the stormy internet these days. I pasted the link to my rail systembut can't make it show here so you may have to copy and paste it in your browser. Basically you take two 1.5" x 1.5" angles and connect them with a couple + or _ 8" sq x .25" plates about 8" spacing and parallel. The sled is simply (4) 1.5" sliding patio door rollers on whatever kind of sled you want. The saw shown is 36" x 48" 32" high . Between the guides is 18" and the 2 wheels are 14". It runs on a 220v 2HP motor. It has enough potential tensioning to squeeze the tires off perfectly balanced CAD turned custom aluminum wheels. It can run 1/8" to 1" blades but you'd need to change guides for blades under 3/8"W . By eliminating all friction in the feed you get incredible FEEL for the perfect feed rate. And it's pretty cool pushing big pieces with your little pinky finger. Here it is if you copy the url and paste it:

https://ibb.co/7ngnT92
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post #37 of 40 Old 02-01-2019, 08:29 AM
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Nice setup you got there. I guess you got another copycat here Theres an old quote which fits this perfectly, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery". Quite a few of us G0555 owners on this forum aint there.
Keep up the great work!!

Mike
Everything i build comes with a redneck warranty. If it breaks you get to keep both pieces.
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post #38 of 40 Old 04-22-2019, 07:21 AM
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Purchased a 17" Grizzly Bandsaw 2 months ago. Resawed some 4' long 12" wide walnut logs with it. Here is a page of my journey along that way. The end of it is a shop update.
You guys building your own bandsaws is awesome. My hat is off to you on that might big task!

http://readyrangers.tzo.com/2019Shop...update2019.htm
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post #39 of 40 Old 05-14-2019, 09:54 AM
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Red face

sorry 'bout that. I have no idea how this comment got here.

Last edited by Robert Farmer; 05-14-2019 at 09:58 AM. Reason: not sure
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post #40 of 40 Old 05-15-2019, 02:24 AM
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My sons cut some wide cherry veneer out of a 24" crotch but the blade hit some nails and it slowed down significantly, ruining the video, but still showing a flat, smooth, usable cut. see

Last edited by falbergsawco; 05-15-2019 at 02:30 AM.
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