I saw a bunch of YouTube traffic coming from WoodworkingTalk, and found this thread to be why. Thanks!
I'll at least provide some insight, as I've used this style for over a year before making this video. The concerns make sense if you haven't used the dado version before.
I like my way better, of course it's "my" way.
I'm afraid I fall in the same boat of my-way bias.
I think all the grooves would collect dust and be difficult to keep clean.
In a year of using this style exclusively, I have never found dust/debris to be an issue. In fact, before this design, I drilled holes, and had dust/shavings accumulate in the holes and I'd blow them out with the air gun. But the dadoes don't trap anything.
You could just flip them over, all the bits may fall out
I feel that bits-falling-out would be a very good natural consequence for flipping a router bit tray upside down.
AND if you don't get your spacing perfect they won't stay in ... period.
Would you mind changing your period to a comma or question mark?
It's hard to mess up the spacing - especially on the 1/8" and 1/2" trays. Those are simple 1-cut passes on the table saw.
There's a lot more room for error than you might think. As long as the dado is < bit diameter, the bits won't fall over ... period.
If somebody's 3/32" thin kerf table saw blade is cutting 1/8" dadoes, then that person has a bigger problem to solve.
Dado Min/Max widths for each shank diameter:
- 1/8" Bits: 0.088" -> 0.125"
- 1/4" Bits: 0.17" -> 0.25"
- 1/2" Bits: 0.35" -> 0.5"
I mean, neither the min or max is desirable, but there's quite a bit of wiggle room before they topple over.
I used a 13MM drill which allows a good slip fit on the 1/2" diameter bits
I'm with you on having a slightly larger hole but never thought about using metric bits to accomplish the slightly larger bore. It's annoying to pull a bit out of a hole that's drilled the same diameter as the shank. I'll have to pick up a set of metric drill bits.
Thanks to the OP for sharing the video.