My Jig For Warped Wood - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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My Jig For Warped Wood

The wood that I deal with is not in the best of shape, some of it is twisted, some warped, some split, some is all of the above.

This is what I came up with to deal with the warped wood that isnt too warped.
Basically is all that I did was make my fence longer so that both ends of the warped board will touch, then you can cut the outside of the wood in a straight line then flip over and repeat.
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Well damn, I cant get the pictures to load up...GRRRRR
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Lets try this...
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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That is better...The only modifications that I would like to do would be to put some lag bolts in the wood that go through a piece of metal that will wedge the wood to the fence so I can get rid of the clamps that sometimes get in the way
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 10:53 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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how's it work?



I made a 20 ft long fence for the RAS to straight line rip some 12 ft Cypress:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-12-2012 at 11:23 PM.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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OK, more pictures...Be right back
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 11:06 PM
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I've never tried doing it that way. I use to have a jig made of plywood that you could had built in hold down clamps. You could clamp a board that has a kick (IIRC, can't remember if that's the correct term) in it to the plywood with the edge overhanging. Then the other edge of the plywood rides on the fence giving you a straight cut.

Tonight I was trying to get a straight piece out of a twisted stick of hickory. I hate trying to run 8' or larger stuff like that over my jointer because it just doesn't work well. Instead I attached a piece of scrap MDF with brads to the edge of the twisted board and ran it through my plainer...
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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1st Picture, you can see the warp in the board
2nd, the blade is just shaving the wood
3rd, in the middle of the board, in this case it is taking a little over 1/4" out of it (more depending on how warped the stock is)
4th just shaving the end again
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Now flip the board over

1st picture taking a little over 1/4" off
2nd just shaving the middle
3rd taking a little over 1/4"

Now you have a straight board that is no longer firewood.

Before you mention it...The blade is getting a little dull and I was going really slow so that the wife could snap pictures
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-12-2012, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse17 View Post
Instead I attached a piece of scrap MDF with brads to the edge of the twisted board and ran it through my plainer...
Can you elaborate on that a little bit, I have some twisted wood that I would like to use. I am having a hard time understanding
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-13-2012, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goXtreme View Post
Can you elaborate on that a little bit, I have some twisted wood that I would like to use. I am having a hard time understanding
Sure. The side of the board that is closest to the camera is twisted up off the table (sorry the pic doesn't really show much). If I just ran it through the planer the rollers would flatten it to the bed of the planer and it would come out thinner but with the same twist. By pinning the MDF to the side of the board that's up in the air it keeps it from being pushed down on the planer bed and the planer only removes the high side of the board.

Once I got that side flat, I removed the MDF, flipped the board over and planed the other side like you normally would. It only works if the board is quite a bit thicker than what you're trying to get out of it, and the twist isn't too bad.

Hope that explains it better.
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-13-2012, 01:29 AM
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Not to be a debbie downer, but generally, if a board is twisted, even if you remove the twist, it's pretty likely the board will keep moving on it's own even after you flatten/straighten it out. Depending on what you're doing with the board, it's probably worthwhile just to scrap it or use it for smaller tasks.

Otherwise, there's a good chance you'll end up with a project that looks a little like this:


Nice long fence though, looks like you need an outfeed table
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post #13 of 16 Old 01-13-2012, 03:48 AM
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I don't think the original board in question had a twist, just a crown. And the way you dealt with it was fine. I have a jig that is about 12' long. It is two pieces of ply wood nailed together in an L. I use double stick tape to attach the board to the jig. Run the whole thing through the table saw and you get the same results. Its much easier than what you are trying to do and easily stored and ready to use in the future.
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post #14 of 16 Old 01-13-2012, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustin View Post
I don't think the original board in question had a twist, just a crown. And the way you dealt with it was fine. I have a jig that is about 12' long. It is two pieces of ply wood nailed together in an L. I use double stick tape to attach the board to the jig. Run the whole thing through the table saw and you get the same results. Its much easier than what you are trying to do and easily stored and ready to use in the future.
This one actually lays right next to my saw on the floor against the wall when I am done with it
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post #15 of 16 Old 01-13-2012, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Upstate View Post
Nice long fence though, looks like you need an outfeed table
I am ordering a new saw around the end of next month, I think that I am going to get it with an outfeed table and the 53" right hand extention
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post #16 of 16 Old 01-13-2012, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Upstate View Post
Not to be a debbie downer, but generally, if a board is twisted, even if you remove the twist, it's pretty likely the board will keep moving on it's own even after you flatten/straighten it out. Depending on what you're doing with the board, it's probably worthwhile just to scrap it or use it for smaller tasks.

Otherwise, there's a good chance you'll end up with a project that looks a little like this:


Nice long fence though, looks like you need an outfeed table
Well Debbie, you're absolutely correct about that. In my case I was using the board for the front edge of a work bench in my shop. It'll be face glued flat on it's entire surface. I just needed it to add support to the counter top. I fully plan on it cracking and otherwise self-destructing eventually, but I imagine it will still outlast the counter top.
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