log furniture jigs and tips - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 09-17-2009, 09:01 PM
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Log Tenons on table saw

I too, am too cheap to buy the various tenon makers, and came up with another way to cut them on the table saw. I first drill 11/16th holes in the ends of the logs as parallel as possible (I'm doing this by eye but need hints on a slick way to keep these in perfectly parallel planes), and thread in 6 inch or longer 3/8 inch bolts leaving at least 3 inches exposed. On the table saw, I clamp a simple thin board to the blade side of the fence, with a 1" deep, 3/8" dia. notch at the top, with the waxed bottom about 3" above the saw table and close to blade center, and set one of the end bolts into the notch (log is perpendicular to the blade). The other end of the log is supported by a free stand with another 3/8" notch at the top the same height as the one on the fence. I use a freestanding tool rest from my lathe with a notched insert, but have used just a board nailed to a heavy 12inch x12inch x 2 foot wood block sitting on the floor. The tenon is then cut by simply raising the blade into the wood, and turning the log against the blade rotation, while at the same time sliding the end bolts back and forth on the notches. This sounds slow and complicated, but it’s really not. With a sharp blade you can easily take off 3/4 inch dia. at a time. Tenon diameter, which I check now and then with calipers, is determined by blade height, and tenon length is set by the distance between the fence jig and the blade. I have found that setting the log at a slight angle, maybe a few degrees , causes the blade to progress in a spiral cut from the shoulder to the tenon end or vice versa. On lighter woods like pine, this works great-no strain, no jumping a round, and little risk as far as I can tell . Interestingly, I first tried this method by simply hammering long, sturdy pole barn nails into pilot holes in the log ends. The nails sagged or flexed a bit at their fullest extension from the notch, but the effect was to slightly taper the end of the tenon, and that's not a bad thing. This only works well, of course, with reasonably straight logs, but is pretty accommodating of bends if the notch is high enough to keep the bends from hitting the saw table. I use my standard table saw blade, but a dado might be faster. One plus or minus, depending on your tastes, is that this method produces a 90 degree shoulder, rather than a taper at the base of the tenon, but I kind of like that. I have only done this with 6" dia. logs about 5 feet long so far, but the free stand and the sturdy bolts allow you to do about any length.
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post #22 of 26 Old 03-12-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ESCANABAJOSH View Post
anyone have anytips on log furniture building? i'm also looking for some ideas on jigs for drilling the holes in a straight line, etc.

one other thing i'm wondering about is the best way to cut a "L" outta a "O" what i mean is taking a 1/4 chunk of the round log out? would i use a table saw? or how about getting a groove cut so i can slide in T&G. down the middle? thanks for any help on this stuff, i'm new too wood working and starting off with log furniture till i can get more tools.
The answer to all those problemsare at this link.
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post #23 of 26 Old 03-12-2018, 07:48 PM
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As you can see from posts here, and looking on the web...there are lots of methods. I typically offer folk that "hand tool" work is the most rewarding and cost effective way to get into this....but...as you can tell there are many ways to do this...What's your preference?

Good Luck,

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post #24 of 26 Old 03-15-2018, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mics_54 View Post
This is the basic idea for my tenon maker

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Check out this link. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e8g5tvrr1...khTbM0cGa?dl=0
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post #25 of 26 Old 04-17-2018, 01:44 PM
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log furniture multi-tool

Originally Posted by Gus Dering View Post
I agree that its expensive. In 1995 it was about 4 grand.
But if I was serious about log work it would be a must.
You can adjust the diameter and the length of the tenon. And it looks like a draw knife tenon. All in about 30 seconds.
Very cool tool.

I would love to see how else you guys are doing them. There must be some good ideas out there.

I didn't see anything on the market that looked very productive so I built this machine. Go to link for more pics.

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post #26 of 26 Old 04-17-2018, 09:42 PM
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There are cutter bits available that chuck up into a hand drill to cut the ends of log spindles. These cutters work almost like a pencil sharpener to leave the point a certain diameter. So you buy the cutters you want based on diameter such as 3/4”, 1 1/4”, 1 1/2” and so on.
This sure simplifies the process of making tenons.
I thought the cutters I saw were expensive. If I remember correctly it was around $300.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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