I almost added this to this old thread about cross cutting plywood
I built Bill's jig, with the modification suggested by sky in the discussion.
I'm really pleased with the little bit of hobby-level cutting I've done with a zero clearance shoe, using a tip from Wood Magazine's "workshop tips". (And I'll be happier when I repair or replace this saw to start cutting at 90 degrees instead of 88!)
DANGER: This jig keeps the blade guard retracted ALL the time, so take extra care spinning down and to set the saw down on its side when it stops.
Finished product before waxing
I'll over-describe my process for other beginners.
First I raised the circ to retract the blade, and used the shoe itself to set my TS fence, then ripped some 1/4" MDF, and cross cut (four pieces) to length. I did four to have extras for later.
I used a couple dabs of hot glue to "clamp" one of the shoesized 1/4" MDF pieces to my router table, up tight against the 3/4" fence. I used the taller fence as a guide for positioning the saw's shoe for glue up. But first, I also glued a scrap of 3/4" across the front of the 1/4" piece for the same reason. Having built a right angle around the 1/4" zero clearance shoe, I used slow setting hotglue on my saw's shoe, and dropped it into place. Last step was to position the saw on my bench and slowly lower the spinning blade into the 1/4" mdf.
So far, it seems to have really reduced tearout. I gave it a coat of wax and check it for scratch-makers inbetween cuts. And watch out for that protruding blade!
(wear dust mask when cutting the MDF for this jig)