End grain seal for air drying lumber - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By Steve Neul
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 Old 07-03-2017, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 94
View wickedsolo's Photo Album My Photos
End grain seal for air drying lumber

I recently had a large red oak taken down in my yard and I kept two 6' logs that I was planning to mill up into 6/4 planks. I have a lumber rack in my garage and was planning to just store them and let them air dry the next year. I've heard it could take that long.

Anyway, I've read about using a sealant on the end grain to prevent cracking, but I'm not sure what type of sealant to use. Does anyone here have a recommended product?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wickedsolo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 07-03-2017, 11:47 PM
Sawing against the Wind
 
Tennessee Tim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: God's beautiful hills of Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,381
View Tennessee Tim's Photo Album My Photos
Anchorseal to seal the ends, it's all I will use....Air drying needs moving air in a garage plus being stickered for maximum air flow through AND around....normally fully enclosed areas aren't the ideal drying facility due not being able to keep enough fresh are flowing in when closed up as they are designed for BUT it can be done....add a DHumidifier and that takes care of pulling the moisture out of the air in the garage....also helps with the drying signifacantly.

check out my website for ideas on sacking and stickering.

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
........www.TSMFarms.com.......... John 3:16-21 ..........
Reveling God's awesome beauty while creating one of-a-kind flitches and heirlooms.
Tennessee Tim is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 07-04-2017, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 94
View wickedsolo's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennessee Tim View Post
Anchorseal to seal the ends, it's all I will use....Air drying needs moving air in a garage plus being stickered for maximum air flow through AND around....normally fully enclosed areas aren't the ideal drying facility due not being able to keep enough fresh are flowing in when closed up as they are designed for BUT it can be done....add a DHumidifier and that takes care of pulling the moisture out of the air in the garage....also helps with the drying signifacantly.



check out my website for ideas on sacking and stickering.


Would you recommend a fan be placed nearby to circulate air?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wickedsolo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 Old 07-04-2017, 08:46 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Sealing the ends of the boards is done to prevent the wood from drying too fast and cause the ends to crack badly. If you do this again the ends of the logs should be sealed as soon as possible after cutting the tree down.
wickedsolo likes this.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 07-04-2017, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 94
View wickedsolo's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
Sealing the ends of the boards is done to prevent the wood from drying too fast and cause the ends to crack badly. If you do this again the ends of the logs should be sealed as soon as possible after cutting the tree down.


I wondered about that.

I've never milled anything before, so this part is new to me.

I've seen a lot of articles suggesting to stack the wood outside, but wouldn't that introduce it to bugs and weather? I realize outside would be better for air circulation, but I figured inside in a dry place out of the sun would be the best choice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wickedsolo is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 07-04-2017, 09:20 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedsolo View Post
I wondered about that.

I've never milled anything before, so this part is new to me.

I've seen a lot of articles suggesting to stack the wood outside, but wouldn't that introduce it to bugs and weather? I realize outside would be better for air circulation, but I figured inside in a dry place out of the sun would be the best choice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At a saw mill they have hundreds of stacks of wood sitting drying. It would be a daunting task to provide a building for all of it even though it would be better. You keep the wood off the ground so that should eliminate most of the bug problem new bugs getting into the wood. The bugs that are there already are another problem. There is one bug which has been brought over here from Europe which is a particular problem. It's the powder post beetle. You need to watch for little piles of dust under the wood. They make the tiniest little hole in the wood which is very difficult to see and do as much damage as termites. The dust piles is the only clue they are there and the wood needs to be treated with insecticide. This is one of the benefits of kiln drying. The wood is heated enough to kill any bugs in the wood.

The wood sitting in the sun isn't good either but the mill I worked at briefly put the worst cuts of wood on top to shield the rest of it.
Steve Neul is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 07-04-2017, 09:38 AM
Sawing against the Wind
 
Tennessee Tim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: God's beautiful hills of Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,381
View Tennessee Tim's Photo Album My Photos
Wicked...there's lots more to drying then putting it in stacks....you can actually dry too fast in a natural enviroment such as a excessive hotter summer or too windy....or too slow in a very stale enviroment where there's very little air movement and it molds. I'm not going into detail as it can get very lengthy. ADrying IMO is the best all around way to go, it's natural and it works the boards to relieve stresses. I dry all mine under covered top sheds. I don't want to be concerned if I let it dry for 10 yrs or my normal 1yr per inch thickness....it's in the dry....I normally KD for sterilizing and for interior use BUT I have a few that buy AD'd.

Bugs, creepy crawlys, etc., etc. It's best to strip the bark off as this is where most bugs feast/hide...BUT they still can go deeper. I leave most of mine on that will stay on....certian times of year and certian species are NOT going to keep it on long as it dries.

One of the companies that sale Anchorseal also sale a venting ADing tarping system for smaller quanities/stacks. Please take the time to read up on drying hardwood and stickering correctly. Several universities have write ups along with division of forestry..... Dr. Gene aka "wood doctor" has articles and books re drying.

Knowledge is your best friend....here say will get you in deep crap!!!

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
........www.TSMFarms.com.......... John 3:16-21 ..........
Reveling God's awesome beauty while creating one of-a-kind flitches and heirlooms.
Tennessee Tim is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 07-04-2017, 10:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Pineknot_86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,921
View Pineknot_86's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
There is one bug which has been brought over here from Europe which is a particular problem. It's the powder post beetle.
My son had them in his hardwood flooring. They had to replace several boards in the house. Not a difficult job but created a lot of sawdust.

A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
Pineknot_86 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Does Your Shop Need a Kiln? WoodworkingTalk Featured Topics 1 03-13-2017 05:51 PM
A Guide to Choosing Straight Lumber WoodworkingTalk Featured Topics 8 04-21-2016 08:06 PM
The Advantages of Owning a Small Drying Kiln WoodworkingTalk Featured Topics 12 03-17-2016 08:44 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome