Mechanical Pencil - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 36 Old 02-09-2012, 09:37 AM
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Somehow or another my fiancé needed a couple golf course pencils. I think she ended up buying a box of 144 for a few bucks. Anyway after she took her half dozen the rest ended up with me out in the garage. They are actually really nice to use because they come with a nice sharp edge. And having a million of them there is always one close by. They dull after awhile and I haven't bothered to sharpen any of them. I toss the dull ones into the back of the bucket and reach for a new one
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post #22 of 36 Old 02-09-2012, 12:59 PM
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Heh, heh. When I was a bike racing official years ago, we were told to get a box of golf pencils to hand out to our helpers 'cause those things always come back. I think I went 20 years without losing one. :-)
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post #23 of 36 Old 02-09-2012, 04:39 PM
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Standard #2 Ticonderoga, all I ever use in the shop. Keep em everywhere.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #24 of 36 Old 02-09-2012, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustfactory
Standard #2 Ticonderoga, all I ever use in the shop. Keep em everywhere.
That's not mechanical JK do you sharpen religiously

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post #25 of 36 Old 02-09-2012, 05:21 PM
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My favorite pencil is a Bic AI .5mm. It's held up great, and has a cool "shake" to advance feature of the lead. 2 shakes and it's the perfect length. (You can push the tip back inside the pencil to avoid the advancing inside your pocket) I've been using one of these for 7 months at school and I only broke the little cap that covers the eraser. A drop of super glue later, and it's back to new.

I wish it had a bigger eraser though, so I just use a clic-erase that I got as well.

http://www.staples.com/BIC-AI-Mechan...product_786161

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post #26 of 36 Old 07-06-2018, 05:57 PM
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PENTEL Mechanical Drafting Pencil, 0.9 mm

I'm going to try these. They look perfect for the job.

https://www.amazon.com/PENTEL-Mechan...70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Pentel-GraphG...il+0.9mm&psc=1
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post #27 of 36 Old 07-06-2018, 10:05 PM
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Those rectangular pencils are called carpenters pencils for a reason, in the hands of an experienced carpenter they do a myriad of things, neatest thing I saw them used for was a finish carpenter laying one on his miter saw table to tilt the board slightly to under cut a miter when trimming a doorway.
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post #28 of 36 Old 07-06-2018, 10:31 PM
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Spent many years using square soap stone for pipe and boiler work but sometimes we would work with material that soap stone is no good for. So Ive all ways kept fine tip markers (black), #2 pencils (for drawing ISOs), carpenter pencils, good ink pens and pretty much any other writing instrument i could find which would leave a precise marking. Kept an old baby wipe box mostly full of various types of writing instruments. I guess it depends on what im working with as to what is my favorite type of writing instrument.

Mike
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post #29 of 36 Old 07-07-2018, 08:03 AM
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I use the PENTEL Mechanical Drafting Pencil 0.7mm. A very high-quality pencil IMO.

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #30 of 36 Old 07-07-2018, 06:38 PM
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Staedler makes mech. drafting pencils in 0.5 mm, 0.7 mm, and 0.9 mm.
The 0.5mm are a waste of lead, the 0.9 are almost too wide to be useful except for art work.
The printing rubs off the barrels so fast, I can't figure out what's 0.7 mm and 0.9 mm!
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post #31 of 36 Old 07-08-2018, 10:42 AM
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I can tell you what is not working for me.

I have several Sanford ProTouch II 0.3 mm pencils. Sanford was bought by Papermate, and I am not sure if those fancy pencils are available any more. I like the thin lines that it makes. They had some of them at a workplace and I liked them a lot, so I bought a few for myself. It must have been 20 years ago.

-> Those 0.3 mm pencils suck for woodworking, but I keep trying. The problem is that the very thin leads break too easily on wood.

I have some 0.5 mm pencils around. They are too "fat" for me (when I use them on paper) but maybe they will work for woodworking. They can't be worse than the 0.3 mm pencils I have been using.
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post #32 of 36 Old 07-08-2018, 11:11 AM
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rOtring 600 - the Cadillac of mechanical pencils

I've been using mechanical pencils all my life. A lot of my fellow left-handers favor mechanical pencils because we don't get lead smeared all over our hand like with wooden pencils. I'd hate to think of how many I've tried over the years, and the rOtring 600 is still the gold standard. It's an all-metal pencil, so there is some heft to it. This is actually not a pencil - it is a precision writing instrument.

The Uni Kuru Toga would be my "bang for your buck" recommendation. Great pencil for someone like @Tool Agnostic - it rotates the lead as you write, so there is always a sharp point.
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post #33 of 36 Old 07-08-2018, 08:42 PM
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I like a knife for close work and various pencils and markers for job specific tasks.

JIM
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post #34 of 36 Old 07-09-2018, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by tiredtraveler View Post
I like a knife for close work and various pencils and markers for job specific tasks.
I have a nice marking knife. It works well, but I can't see the lines it makes. Sometimes I go back with a pencil to shade the knife cut so I can see it.
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post #35 of 36 Old 10-07-2018, 02:12 AM
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about 3 years ago I bought a Staedtler Mechanical Pencil 1.3 mm, Yellow Body (771) carpenters pencil at $2 at some website. It uses the 1.3mm lead and been very happy with it. Does a good dark line that sands easly and I wish I bought more since they go for $6 on up now.
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post #36 of 36 Old 10-07-2018, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by edwardrose333 View Post
This may be a stupid question, but the design of a typical carpenter's pencil (the wide rectangular lead) seems awkward to me - especially for making precise marks and lines on wood. Is this kind of pencil specifically designed for construction? I've been using a standard #2 school pencil in the shop for years. It does take a lot of sharpening, though :-)

"especially for making precise marks and lines on wood"


You are making an incorrect assumption. Carpenters pencils do not need to be precise. It is not the type of job that calls for precision.


George
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