Best screws for wood that don't work loose - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Best screws for wood that don't work loose

Hi,

One of my kitchen cupboard doors keeps working loose.
They are made from Melamine, so I'm looking for recommendations for the best screw type to use that will not work loose.

Thanks
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 07:38 AM
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Probable that screw hole has enlarged. Wrap screw in foil before reinserting. Or get a larger diameter screw eg 4.5 mm instead of 4

https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-na...rews/cat840066

This company specialises in screws. Bound to be similar in US.
Have a Google.


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post #3 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zara Crowther View Post
Hi,

One of my kitchen cupboard doors keeps working loose.
They are made from Melamine, so I'm looking for recommendations for the best screw type to use that will not work loose.

Thanks
If they are melamine the cabinet you are putting screws into is particle board. It's not the screws that is a problem the particle board just isn't suited for screws of any kind. What you could do is drill a 1/4" hole in the screw hole deeper than the screw is long and glue a wood dowel in the hole. Once dry drill a pilot hole in the dowel and re-insert the screw.
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I'm based in Huddersfield, Yorkshire. Do you think I should also try screws which are designed for soft woods, such as chipboard screws?
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 08:35 AM
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No, I think you should do what Steve suggests. That will give y ou the best results.


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post #6 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zara Crowther View Post
Thank you, I'm based in Huddersfield, Yorkshire. Do you think I should also try screws which are designed for soft woods, such as chipboard screws?
The screws that come with the hinges are fine. It's just particle board isn't solid enough to hold screws for an extended length of time. The dowel should hold the screw indefinitely.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 08:50 AM
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Forgot to mention that the companies that make melamine cabinets use hinges that have a plastic dowel already screwed to the hinges. It not only holds better in particleboard it's a labor savings by being able to just knock the screws onto the door with a hammer.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-29-2019, 12:54 PM
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I would consider using a small size plastic plug sold in most stores. I bought a pack of 100 from Screwfix and use for fixing screws into walls. I have also used them in chip board. There are two branches in Huddersfield.

https://www.screwfix.com/jsp/tradeCo...age.jsp?id=433


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post #10 of 18 Old 03-30-2019, 03:53 PM
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Piece of toothpick in the enlarged hole?

A diamond is how coal reacts under pressure.
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post #11 of 18 Old 03-30-2019, 07:51 PM
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If this was a professionally made cabinet it would have had screws made for PB or the plastic dowels. The plastic dowels work very well. You would need to use a drill press to make the required holes for them since they need to be very accurately positioned and square to the face. The alternative of gluing a wood dowel in (10mm/ 3/8") & pilot drilling for the screw also would work.
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-16-2019, 01:11 PM
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It is better to fill the hole with a small piece of wood such that it perfectly fits in the hole and again try to screw it it will definitely get tightened
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-15-2019, 12:48 PM
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or you can put some Weldbond glue on your screw and screw it then :)
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-16-2019, 12:25 PM
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"particle board just isn't suited for screws of any kind." NOT TRUE!
The problem is people continue to use the wrong screws. There are screws designed for those materials that hold quite well. There is also the issue of poor quality board that does not meet industry standards. I still see small shops & hobbyists using drywall screws & even wood screws, then over torqueing them. Then there is the issue of the proper clearance hole and pilot hole. If any of these things are not done to the required standards you will have failures. Once a screw has failed to hold, putting it back in the same hole is just like the old song "doing it a again and expecting a different result." You all know what that is a definition of!

Hinges in Euro box cabinets: 35mm cup bore & either 8mm bore for press in dowels or cup expanding technology. Into the case side: 5mm bore for Euro screws or better press in dowels. Case construction using screws: Confirmat screws are/were? the only screw method that will meet AWI standards. This is a well developed technology that requires accuracy and conforming to standards. People who refuse to follow will fail.

As for the original question. You need to drill out the hole(s) very accurately (8mm dowel bit), drill press? Then use the press in plastic dowels made for the purpose. The reason for the drill press is almost any bit will wobble about in an existing hole and it needs to be very accurately positioned. Clamp the part to the table. Use an auxiliary table if required. The dowel bit has cutting spurs that are made to drill mdf or PB. They come with a 10mm shank and one flat. Make sure the chuck is not gripping on the flat. A twist drill will not drill an accurate hole and will shred the material weakening the interface to the dowel.
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-16-2019, 02:20 PM
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After reading post #14 one might assume that the dowel bit mentioned is actually just a brad point bit with a fancy name, not so.

Brad point bits actually come in two flavours, one for hardwood, another for softwood, good explanation here:

https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/...rad-point-bit/

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post #16 of 18 Old 10-16-2019, 11:59 PM
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Go out to dinner at a Chinese restaurant. Bring home the chop sticks. They make really good fillers for holes where the screw has stripped the hole.

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post #17 of 18 Old 10-17-2019, 04:01 PM
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Frank, Actually a dowel bit is quite different than either of the ones you referenced. The Carbide end has been ground perfectly round and provides a guide as the bit penetrates, providing a very good reference and preventing the bit from walking sideways. The resulting hole is nearly flat bottomed and very round. There are many manufactures.

The other bit used for melamine and HPL laminated board is called a through bit. Designed to drill all the way through the panel and not chip out the exiting side. Commonly used where the line bore goes all the way through so you don't need to do both sides. A center panel would be such an application.
If you order any of these be sure to specify right or left rotation.
https://www.leuco.com/leuco/cms/EN/U...its/Dowel_Bits
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post #18 of 18 Old 10-17-2019, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Schweitzer View Post
Frank, Actually a dowel bit is quite different than either of the ones you referenced.
https://www.leuco.com/leuco/cms/EN/U...its/Dowel_Bits
That was the point I was attempting to make rather badly.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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