Your favorite caulking tip - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 4Likes
  • 1 Post By Shop_Rat
  • 1 Post By FrankC
  • 1 Post By red68mgb
  • 1 Post By ducbsa
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 08-23-2019, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,515
View Quickstep's Photo Album My Photos
Your favorite caulking tip

I need to caulk an approximate 1/8” gap between a tile backsplash and a granite countertop.

The gap really varies from 1/16 to almost 3/16 in some places.

Naturally, I want to give the look of a perfectly straight, clean line. I’m thinking about taping it off, but wondering if there is a better way. What alternatives to a wet finger do you guys use?
Quickstep is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 08-23-2019, 07:54 AM
johnep
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: East Anglia UK
Posts: 1,888
View johnep's Photo Album My Photos
https://www.diy.com/departments/dial...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is what my plumber uses.
johnep
johnep is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 08-23-2019, 10:48 AM
Nine Thumbs
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: The Very Tip of Lake Michigan
Posts: 282
View Shop_Rat's Photo Album My Photos
I've never had much luck with the smoothing tools. Cutting the nozzle to the widest gap to fill (or slightly larger) will result in a straight line the length of the job.

I also try to push the bead instead of pulling. When pulling backwards I cannot see how much goo is coming out of the nozzle. By pushing I keep, and can see, a very small amount of material in front of the line. Much easier for me to regulate the puddle and forego thin and thick patches along the line.

Your results might vary. I will admit that even though it's not that hard to do, I still don't like to do it!
NoThankyou likes this.

Another $000,000,000.02 worth of advice,
Mark
Shop_Rat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 Old 08-23-2019, 11:59 AM
Cat Herder
 
ChiknNutz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Triad, NC (from the PNW)
Posts: 503
View ChiknNutz's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shop_Rat View Post
I've never had much luck with the smoothing tools. Cutting the nozzle to the widest gap to fill (or slightly larger) will result in a straight line the length of the job.

I also try to push the bead instead of pulling. When pulling backwards I cannot see how much goo is coming out of the nozzle. By pushing I keep, and can see, a very small amount of material in front of the line. Much easier for me to regulate the puddle and forego thin and thick patches along the line.

Your results might vary. I will admit that even though it's not that hard to do, I still don't like to do it!
I have also found to get better results when I can push the bead, but various constraints don't always make that feasible. One downside I've found with the push method is if there are non-smooth spots, like when against tile, you tend to get jammed up at the intersections then the bead is messed up. So no perfect method I've found either. I have had some success using the smoothing tools on occasion as opposed to my finger.

Chris A.
Live a life worth celebrating!

Ridgid R4221 12" CMS, R4330 Planer | Bosch MRC23EVSK Router, 1591EVSL Jigsaw, PB360S Power Box | JDS Air-Tech HP air cleaner | Grizzly 14" bandsaw (Laguna LT14 clone), Delta DC-1100VX-CK Dust Collector | Festool Rotex 150/5 FEQ, CT 36 E, ETS EC125/3, TS75, Domino XL | Incra router table
ChiknNutz is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 08-23-2019, 12:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 5,047
View FrankC's Photo Album My Photos
I was shown to use masking tape to determine the width of the line, run the bead, spray with Windex, smooth with your finger wiping excess on paper towel. Remove tape, wet once more and gently run along with your finger smoothing out the edges.
gj13us likes this.

“Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.”
― Marcus Aurelius
FrankC
http://sawdustmaking.com
FrankC is online now  
post #6 of 13 Old 08-24-2019, 09:38 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: NE FL
Posts: 138
View DrRobert's Photo Album My Photos
I think tape will give the best result when the gap is that large.


I just use my finger but I suppose a tool could give a better result.


The think about silicone is I don't think you can go over it without messing it up.
DrRobert is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 08-24-2019, 05:32 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Basehor, KS (West of Kansas City)
Posts: 70
View JamesTinKS's Photo Album My Photos
Cut the tube to give a smaller bead than you think you will need. When you smooth it you will be pushing less excess caulk and will have less (or no) clean up.
Pushing works better than pulling to apply. Move quickly and don't worry if you leave a gap. You will fill it when you smooth it out. If you don't you can always add a bit more. Easier to add more than it is to clean up excess.

JamesTinKS
I am a professional amateur woodworker.
JamesTinKS is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 08-24-2019, 06:14 PM
Ancient Termite
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Huntington Beach, California
Posts: 416
View NoThankyou's Photo Album My Photos
The best reply that I can give you is to keep an old "T" shirt and a glass of water near by. Wet your finger in the glass of water and smooth. Wipe on the old "T" shirt dip in water to continue smoothing. If it is true ceramic tile you'll only be able to smooth for 3 or 4 tiles as the smoothing action will force caulk into the tile gaps at the edges.

Rich
In furniture 1/32" is a Grand Canyon
NoThankyou is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 08-24-2019, 06:40 PM
Village Idiot
 
epicfail48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Springfield MO
Posts: 4,606
View epicfail48's Photo Album My Photos
Caulked tubs daily for a couple of years, best tips i have are to cut the tip a little larger than you think youd need, squeeze hard and move a little faster than youd think youd want to. If you do slow and try to get down a perfectly even bead with a tiny opening, youll put a bunch of variance into the thickness of the bead, makes for a messy line. Faster movements make for a more averaged-out line. Taping along the edges works alright if you dont trust yourself to set a good bead

Oh, and cut the tip at a 45 angle. Basic, but some people dont know that one

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
epicfail48 is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 08-24-2019, 06:45 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Upstate NY/Coastal, SC
Posts: 20
View red68mgb's Photo Album My Photos
X2 what FrankC said if you're using silicone (which IMO is best for ctops as well as baths.) I have used a similar method many times with good success.

I use painters tape, but no water or other wetting agent with silicone.

If the tile and top are similar colors, I would suggest getting a similar color caulk. Otherwise, use your best judgement. When they are different colors, I have used clear silicone with good success.

One thing - take the tape off immediately (don't ask how I learned this.) It will leave a bit of a ridge which can be smoothed gently with your finger
FrankC likes this.

Jim

"I've learned the hard way that I can't afford to buy cheap tools"
red68mgb is offline  
post #11 of 13 Old 08-25-2019, 06:17 AM
Senior Member
 
ducbsa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 353
View ducbsa's Photo Album My Photos
Doesn’t address your question, but I use these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/caulk-saver-97561.html
Tool Agnostic likes this.
ducbsa is offline  
post #12 of 13 Old 08-26-2019, 01:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 648
View gj13us's Photo Album My Photos
I hadn't heard the Windex trick before. Something to try next time.

Around my house I use the push method. That's also the way that cake decorators apply icing, by the way.
gj13us is offline  
post #13 of 13 Old 08-26-2019, 02:44 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Pa
Posts: 2,857
View TimPa's Photo Album My Photos
have been residential contracting for decades, and have found that almost never does the first caulk application last, when caulking the c-top to backsplash/wall, or the wall corners. i always tell my customers to call me back in one year and i will re-apply.

however, i have been using Big Stretch, lately and really like it!
TimPa is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome