Workbench project - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 09:10 AM
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SARGE, the technique I use to sharpen my chisels is. I have a piece of glass, to it I have adhered 3 sheets of wet/dry sandpaper in the following grits. 800,1200, 2000. I also have a chisel sharpening guide I got at Woodcraft. Chisel and Plane Blade Sharpening Guide #03E42. I have heard this method called the scary sharp technique. A person could shave with this technique.

Good luck with the workbench, and hope u keep us posted.

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post #42 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 09:12 AM
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SARGE, the technique I use to sharpen my chisels is. I have a piece of glass, to it I have adhered 3 sheets of wet/dry sandpaper in the following grits. 800,1200, 2000. I also have a chisel sharpening guide I got at Woodcraft. Chisel and Plane Blade Sharpening Guide #03E42. I have heard this method called the scary sharp technique. A person could shave with this technique.

Good luck with the workbench, and hope u keep us posted.

My father was my inspiration for woodworking, wish he was still around for more advice. Luv ya Dad.
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post #43 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 12:02 PM
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post #44 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, at this time the resources I have to sharpen are sandpaper. The sharpening guide from veritas is on my list though, and I'll be reading the sharpening secrets once I get my new chisels.

I only have 4 mortises left to chop, and the legs will be done.

Do you guys think the addition I am adding with dowels and glue will hold?

The idea is to hand drill holes for the dowels to seat in the bottom of the leg, attaching the addition. I'm going to plane the mating edges into a small recess at the joint, so it looks as if it was meant to look that way. Glue and dowels mated to the addition and the leg is what I'm hoping will be strong enough.

Please advise.
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post #45 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Mated at the joint, just for a better view of what Ivan doing to add the height
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post #46 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 03:31 PM
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End grain to end grain is I think the weakest joint. Dowels like you are using will likely help. A half lap joint might be stronger.another drawbore tenon maybe ? Idk, there are others with way more experience than me.

Last edited by rayking49; 04-21-2013 at 04:06 PM.
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post #47 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 08:57 PM
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I think your fix is fine since it will mainly have downward pressure only.

Welcome to the real world of woodworking. Real craftsman build beautiful pieces to be admired but they also make the same mistakes we all make. What sets them apart from the crowd is they know how to hide their mistakes. You did just fine.

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post #48 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieL View Post
I think your fix is fine since it will mainly have downward pressure only.

Welcome to the real world of woodworking. Real craftsman build beautiful pieces to be admired but they also make the same mistakes we all make. What sets them apart from the crowd is they know how to hide their mistakes. You did just fine.
+1 as long as both cuts are quite square and the dowel holes line up accurately.

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post #49 of 64 Old 04-21-2013, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Looking good thus far. I almost have it so the grain matches, making it look intentional. It's so close, it would take you staring to notice its a slight bit off in grain.

Pics show the glue up and grain matching
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post #50 of 64 Old 04-22-2013, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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The new technique for a large mortise, following Paul sellers example:
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post #51 of 64 Old 04-22-2013, 08:09 PM
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The new technique for a large mortise, following Paul sellers example:
that is one big honking mortise!

break any chisels yet?
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post #52 of 64 Old 04-22-2013, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, broke the tip on three different chisels. It's for a 2 1/2 inch squared tenon.
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post #53 of 64 Old 04-23-2013, 11:08 AM
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holy mortice Batman! do u just cut smaller mortices first and then split the middle?

Last edited by srestrepo; 04-23-2013 at 11:25 AM.
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post #54 of 64 Old 04-23-2013, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, that's what I started doing recently to avoid tearing the sidewalls
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post #55 of 64 Old 04-30-2013, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Legs completed, now doing the top.


Planing and smoothing, glue up. Didn't use as much pressure on the glue up this time, and used a lot less glue.

Also worthy to note that I dry fitted each section, marked the gaps with a lumber crayon, and planed the touching surfaces adjacent to the gaps which closed each gap quickly.
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post #56 of 64 Old 04-30-2013, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Planing for dry fit:
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post #57 of 64 Old 05-01-2013, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Plenty to go as you can see:
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post #58 of 64 Old 05-01-2013, 03:26 AM
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A lot of guys using construction lumber for benches use 2x lumber instead of 4x, but I always thought that a bench top out of 4x4s would be smart and save a bunch of work (as long as they are mostly straight).

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post #59 of 64 Old 05-01-2013, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Wish I could afford S4S maple, but at $70, 4x4 was the logical, denser option.

It's heavy, thick, takes less work to plane, and easier to assemble. Doing it in sections seems to be the trick. I'm adding a tail/ wagon vise and adding a bit more mass to the legs. I have also decided to go against Christopher Swartz recommendations, and am adding a tool tray.

I could use it.
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post #60 of 64 Old 05-06-2013, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Wagon vise setup:


Almost finished with the slide, just need to create the saddle for the block to ride on
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