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post #21 of 34 Old 08-23-2014, 11:19 PM
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Measure twice, measure again, measure a fifth time, make a test cut, measure again, then cut the good stuff.

Ounce of planning is worth a pound of doing
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post #22 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer
First things first. After you purchase a table saw. Tune it up. Square everything. Check the fence and true it too. Then build a sled. Got to have a sled. Set the miter gauge off to the side and admire and wonder how anyone ever got any good safe cuts with it. Al
Gee, I thought I was the only one that never uses a miter gage....

Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......
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post #23 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 12:33 PM
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Find a local paint store (not a borg), and get to know the people. It makes finishing a lot easier when you can get questions answered, special products ordered/supplied, and most times, you'll be dealing with the same folks at every visit.
Bill
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post #24 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oakwerks

Gee, I thought I was the only one that never uses a miter gage....

Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......
I pull one of my gauges out the other day to use for a fixture. It was so rusty it made me laugh.

Al


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post #25 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill White
Find a local paint store (not a borg), and get to know the people. It makes finishing a lot easier when you can get questions answered, special products ordered/supplied, and most times, you'll be dealing with the same folks at every visit.
Bill
A very good tip. My pro paint supplier has saved my backside many times.

Al


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post #26 of 34 Old 08-25-2014, 06:04 AM
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If you ever take off a moulding that has to go be pinned back on don't tap the old nails through the front. Pull them through the back with some pliers and the front will stay crisp and clean and won't tear or damage the finish. It also makes less work to refinish after you put new pins in.

wiltshirebuildingmaintenance.co.uk
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post #27 of 34 Old 08-26-2014, 09:43 AM
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When finishing a loose house door screw a T-shaped strip of wood to the top and bottom and you can lay it on horses and finish both sides. With a helper you can easily flip the door without touching the wet paint.
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post #28 of 34 Old 08-26-2014, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oakwerks
Gee, I thought I was the only one that never uses a miter gage.... Sent to y'all offen' a iPad thing......
I made another sled out of my Incra miter gauge buying the miter express track only and making my own side panels. Just didn't use the miter gauge at all

Cut it twice, measure once and it's still too short.
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post #29 of 34 Old 08-27-2014, 11:02 AM
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When finishing hollow core interior walk doors, drive a nail in the center of the top and bottom. Set between saw horses, and finish one side, flip and finish edges and other side.
I had a rental where I had to paint 4 doors. I made a 2x4 frame, so I could hang 4 doors. 2 doors above 2 other doors. 8 saw horses would have worked, but take up more floor space.
Worked great.
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post #30 of 34 Old 08-27-2014, 11:08 AM
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Cabinet door drying rack

I made a simple drying rack for drying cabinet doors.
Just 2, 2x4's with dados for a bunch of 2' (+/-) 1x1's
The 1x1's are not fastened in the dados, so they can be angled in or out for different door heights. It also comes apart easier.
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post #31 of 34 Old 09-02-2014, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Tip of the day!
http://youtu.be/llMX688q8OU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llMX688q8OU

"Show respect even to people who donít deserve it, not as a reflection of their character, but as a reflection of yours."
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post #32 of 34 Old 09-02-2014, 04:54 PM
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I just learned a neat trick for gluing together a partially split piece of wood:
Apply glue to one side of the crack, then hold your shopvac nozzle up to the other side.
The vacuum will draw the glue right in!
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post #33 of 34 Old 09-03-2014, 05:08 PM
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When pouring paint out of a round can a cheap disposable pouring spout can just be a sheet of common paper pulled tightly against the can.
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post #34 of 34 Old 09-18-2014, 10:13 PM
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Keeping a open tube of latex caulk from drying out, I remove the tube from the caulking gun and put it in a jar of water. The caulk will stay as fresh as it would unopened, however after more than a month in water what is in the tip gets pretty runny so the first squirt should be discarded.
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