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post #1 of 16 Old 01-07-2015, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Wood Mallet.

I am thinking about making a wood mallet for chisil work etc. What would be a good size for that type of use? I was thinking of using some scrap maple, and walnut I have sitting around. Pictures and suggestions are welcomed.
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-07-2015, 01:36 PM
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You might look for the mallet swap threads. There are a ton of good ideas there

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-07-2015, 03:33 PM
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-07-2015, 09:36 PM
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Tulip shaped mallets don't require looking at the chisel handle, holding the mallet in a certain position or making sure you have proper face contact. You can wrap your fingers around the larger part for finely controlled light taps or by the handle for harder striking. If you make the mallet out of a wood softer than your chisel handles, it will save them from marks and degradation. Easy enough to turn one new mallet rather than replace several nice chisel handles. I like cherry, walnut or other such softer hardwoods. One piece so the head won't come loose.

Last edited by Hammer1; 01-07-2015 at 09:38 PM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-08-2015, 12:05 AM
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Wood Mallet.

I mallet is going to get beat up. Grab a piece of firewood, and save the cherry&walnut. Of course turn the firewood into a mallet. As for the size turn a bunch and see which one you like best.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-08-2015, 12:18 AM
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Here is a picture of mine it is hickory, and weighs 17.5 oz. I am going to turn another one about half that weight.Wood Mallet.-imageuploadedbywood-working-talk1420690669.896601.jpg
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-08-2015, 05:07 PM
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The one on the left is what I see all the time in hardware stores. It's too light (15oz.) for joinery but makes a good assembly mallet. If you strike anything too hard the laminated head can and will separate. The one on the right is what I made from maple and hickory (handle). It weighs 22oz. and with very little effort will drive a mortise chisel quite nicely. Carving mallets (tulip shaped) are better for carving as the name implies as you would normally be tapping rather than striking a chisel. It took me a little over 1/2 hour to make the joiners mallet with hand tools alone. To make a good carving mallet you need a lathe.

Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of the people doing it.
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-08-2015, 06:48 PM
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I made mine out of ash just because it's what I had at the time. A tighter grain wood like hickory would have been better. It's 3 1/4" in diameter and 10 1/2" long. After turning it I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the head of it down about 3 1/2" and poured lead into it up to about 1/2" of the top. When it cooled I glued a plug in it. With the lead it weighs 2 1/4lbs.
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-08-2015, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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I started my mallet today. I watched some videos last night and today on the creation of various designs of a mallet and kind of settled on the basic THOR type. I perused various methods and am trying one out to see if it works. I am curious as to the amount of taper for the handle, I have alloted a condition of 1/8" difference from the front of mallet to the rear of mallet. Is this taper acceptable? The pics are of the handle and part of the mallet head.





I plan on making the head; 4 1/2" l x 2 1/2"w x 5" h, Are these demsions out of line or are they ok with handle? I can adjust demensions to correct if they are out of bounds.

This is my first mallet, so I am on the experimental threshold so to speak.
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-09-2015, 04:19 PM
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I think size and weight can be a personal matter so long as it suits the purpose. A larger mallet would be fine for timber framing just as a smaller one is good for carving.

Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of the people doing it.
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-11-2015, 01:46 PM
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I think weight and size to fit with their needs. It seems like the other day there's never been a share of a mallet but I forgot. Please explore these forums. GL bro.
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-11-2015, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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I had to reajust and prepare a new handle. the one shown, lacked thickness, I thought I had the thickness right, but I think I glued it up wrong. Back to the drawing board, and now have a new setup in the glue rack.

Measure twice, cut once, or glue up once.
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post #13 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Finished my mallet, but am wondering what kind of finish to put on it. Mineral oil, shelack, or BLO. I have some bees wax and oil mixture I use on my dining table, HOWARD'S Feed and wax.
The mallet head is walnut and maple, the handle is walnut and cherry. All made from scraps I had hanging around for one reason or another. I don't know how much it weighs, have nothing to measure it with. My little home scale for food only goes to 16 oz, and bottomed that out.

Critique if you wish, this is my first one, I don't own a lathe, so the handle was done on the router table to round it some.





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post #14 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 03:25 PM
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It looks good. The only comment I would have is that if this is a joinery mallet then the faces are typically a 3 angle so the face makes near 90 contact with the chisel handle.

Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of the people doing it.
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post #15 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 03:32 PM
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I always use Blo and finish with johnsons wax. Works for me.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #16 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodenhorse View Post
It looks good. The only comment I would have is that if this is a joinery mallet then the faces are typically a 3 angle so the face makes near 90 contact with the chisel handle.
Thank you for that information. I am sure I can do that on my bandsaw.
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