wood filler for stain - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 04-19-2019, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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wood filler for stain

I built a table top out of three pine boards and did not do a great job in bonding them together. There were no biscuits, just glue which has dried and looked pretty bad. So I've removed the stain and poly which has been on it for 8 or 9 years and plan to use my router in between the boards which are very stable..I want to use a filler in the 3/16W x 1/4D space I'll cut, then retain the top with raw filler in place.
What's the suggestion for filler? Thanks very much.
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-19-2019, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentannenbaum View Post
I built a table top out of three pine boards and did not do a great job in bonding them together. There were no biscuits, just glue which has dried and looked pretty bad. So I've removed the stain and poly which has been on it for 8 or 9 years and plan to use my router in between the boards which are very stable..I want to use a filler in the 3/16W x 1/4D space I'll cut, then retain the top with raw filler in place.
What's the suggestion for filler? Thanks very much.
Would be nice if you would post a picture of it. It's difficult to recommend a fix without seeing it. If the joint is good I would be reluctant to patch it. If the joint was bad sometimes we recommend going ahead and cutting it in two and re-doing the joint.

As far as filler, most of them come in a natural color which when dry resists being stained. What you can do is purchase some universal tinting color to add to the filler to color it prior to using it. For wood most of the time that color is burnt umber. The colorant is what a paint stores have in their machines to mix paint. If they don't have burnt umber you can mix raw umber and red oxide to get that color however without seeing the color you need it's difficult to say what colorant you might need. With pine it may need some yellow which would mean yellow oxide colorant.
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post #3 of 5 Old 04-20-2019, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Steve...thanks very much. Obviously, your experience speaks volumes. Sorry I didn't post images first. Turns out my productive self kicked in and I attacked that problem best as I knew how. As mentioned, I bonded three plan ks together with pipe clamps and wood glue, no biscuits. Over eight years the planks took still but the glue dried and looked awful and worse as the years went by. The original stain is what I'm using to refinish it as we liked the result very much. It's a Minwax White Pickling stain that just casts a slight white film over the grain which in this case is cheap pine board with a good looking pattern. Anyway, I bought a new 3/16 router bit and went 1/4 deep with it, then figured I keep use stain friendly filler from the Minwax family. Last night I sanded it down and think the result looks excellent. The lines of filler are circled as it's hard to see them. Also, the photos are BEFORE staining or a final sanding. I think the stain will look great and even if the lines are slightly different it shouldn't make a difference. Again, thanks for the thoughts.
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-20-2019, 04:04 PM
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Looks like it will work alright to me.

It would probably finish more uniform if you would sand the entire top before restoring the finish. It would be difficult to control the stain in a couple of streaks down the middle. Also you might make a router cut and fill it on a piece of scrap pine to see how the stain would react with the filler. It's very possible the filler will absorb much more of the white and make a couple white streaks in the top. You may need to mask off the filler and use some kind of wood conditioner on the filler so it stained equal to the surrounding wood.
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post #5 of 5 Old 04-20-2019, 11:25 PM
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Rather than use a filler, how about inlaying some strips of the same wood you used for the top? Since you routed a 3/16" wide groove, you could glue in a 3/16" strip, sand them flush, and have a surface that would take stain the same as the original top boards.

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