Why can't I get a perfect rip? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I'm late in the conversation and I haven't read every post but what you are describing is when the fence at the back is closer to the blade than the front. The blade literally bends to fit the board being forced through there. Then at the end of the cut the blade tries to return back to where it is. It's similar to sniping on a planer. You may have the fence in perfect alignment with the miter slots but is the blade also in perfect alignment with the miter slots? This is a possible cause of the snipe.
That is exactly what is going on. The blade is off more than 1/32" off. So, as I was preparing to move the thing back into place I noticed that the blade popped back into position when I removed the belt from the motor. I would think that means that maybe the bearings are going bad. But, I can give that blade a little spin and it will spin true, without noise and for a good long time.
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post #22 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 06:23 PM
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Ya gotta start from the beginning ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dthor68 View Post
That is exactly what is going on. The blade is off more than 1/32" off. So, as I was preparing to move the thing back into place I noticed that the blade popped back into position when I removed the belt from the motor. I would think that means that maybe the bearings are going bad. But, I can give that blade a little spin and it will spin true, without noise and for a good long time.
The first rule of table saw setup is to align both the blade/trunnion assembly AND the fence parallel to the miter slots. NO ifs ands or buts. The miter slot is the "reference standard" because it is milled in at the factory and is not adjustable, unlike the trunnions or the fence.

Fix the blade to slot issue first and then simply adjust the fence to be parallel to the slot by sliding it over and feeling until there is no offset. The trunnions which hold the blade arbor have 3 bolts in the front and 3 in the rear which you will loosen slightly. You can shift the entire assembly until your blade is parallel to the miter slot.

The biggest problem will be measuring or checking it while at the same time reaching underneath or having to lay on your back. I have done this set up procedure many times and found that by tipping the saw on it's back you can easily see and reach all the parts and measure at the same time.

For machine setup, use the fence to miterslot, and I don't care what then number says on the steel rule or dial indicator, I use the "touch" method by aligning the fence right over the slot and feel for an offset or not. For the blade to slot, I use a combination square resting in the slot and one marked tooth. I don't care what the number is on the rule, I go by the sound and feel as it "kisses" the tooth or not.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-25-2018 at 07:42 PM.
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post #23 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The first rule of table saw setup is to align both the blade/trunnion assembly AND the fence parallel to the miter slots. NO ifs ands or buts. The miter slot is the "reference standard" because it is milled in at the factory and is not adjustable, unlike the trunnions or the fence.

Fix the blade to slot issue first and then simply adjust the fence to be parallel to the slot by sliding it over and feeling until there is no offset. The trunnions which hold the blade arbor have 3 bolts in the front and 3 in the rear which you will loosen slightly. You can shift the entire assembly until your blade is parallel to the miter slot.

The biggest problem will be measuring or checking it while at the same time reaching underneath or having to lay on your back. I have done this set up procedure many times and found that by tipping the saw on it's back you can easily see and reach all the parts and measure at the same time.

For machine setup, use the fence to miterslot, and I don't care what then number says on the steel rule or dial indicator, I use the "touch" method by aligning the fence right over the slot and feel for an offset or not. For the blade to slot, I use a combination square resting in the slot and one marked tooth. I don't care what the number is on the rule, I go by the sound and feel as it "kisses" the tooth or not.

So are you saying that it is normal for the blade to go out of whack when under load from the belt? I take the belt off and it is true, put the belt on and it is off about 1/24". I can line it up with the belt on.
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post #24 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 09:00 PM
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So are you saying that it is normal for the blade to go out of whack when under load from the belt? I take the belt off and it is true, put the belt on and it is off about 1/24". I can line it up with the belt on.
The spindle (ie, blade) should not move belt on or off. If the blade is moving when the belt is put on, something is loose. Bolts, or spindle bearings.

It's possible for the bearing (s) to be loose in the housing yet still spin the blade without a problem, What is changing when the belt is put on in this case is that the bearing itself is shifting in it's housing.

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #25 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dthor68 View Post
That is exactly what is going on. The blade is off more than 1/32" off. So, as I was preparing to move the thing back into place I noticed that the blade popped back into position when I removed the belt from the motor. I would think that means that maybe the bearings are going bad. But, I can give that blade a little spin and it will spin true, without noise and for a good long time.
If you grab the blade and move it side to side is there any play? If so, then the bearings may be worn or the arbor assembly is not tight. No noise when you spin the blade by hand, but is there noise when the motor is spinning the blade? If yes, then worn bearings. If the blade changes position depending whether or not the belt is on would indicate that the pulleys are out of alignment.
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post #26 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JIMMIEM View Post
If you grab the blade and move it side to side is there any play? If so, then the bearings may be worn or the arbor assembly is not tight. No noise when you spin the blade by hand, but is there noise when the motor is spinning the blade? If yes, then worn bearings. If the blade changes position depending whether or not the belt is on would indicate that the pulleys are out of alignment.
Pulleys out of alignment wouldn't make the blade alignment change. Something is loose or pressure on the arbor pulley wouldn't cause the blade to shift in alignment. Again, bearings loose in the housing, (bearings can be perfectly good but housing worn enough to let them shift.) One guess might be PO had a bearing freeze up and run in the housing, and replaced bearing, but it is loose in housing. Or something else is loose or shifting.

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #27 of 27 Old 06-25-2018, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dthor68 View Post
That is exactly what is going on. The blade is off more than 1/32" off. So, as I was preparing to move the thing back into place I noticed that the blade popped back into position when I removed the belt from the motor. I would think that means that maybe the bearings are going bad. But, I can give that blade a little spin and it will spin true, without noise and for a good long time.
It sounds more like the trunnions which hold the blade arbor are loose if it's able to move that much. You might also try to move the arbor to see where the looseness is.
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