Where to buy rough plank/crate wood? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Where to buy rough plank/crate wood?

Hello. I recently saw an entire store wall covered with narrow, rough cut planks of wood, (approximately .25" thick and 2" tall). They looked aged, I'm not sure if they were recycled or simply stained. Regardless, does anyone know where I can buy this type of wood? I don't see it on the big box store's websites. Any help is greatly appreciated!

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post #2 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 12:13 PM
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It looks like pallet wood. You can either go in search of pallets to pull apart (PITA), or find the nearest pallet making / recycling company and see if they'll sell you some or tell you where they get it.
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 02:30 PM
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It looks like old wall lath to me. Find yourself an old gem of a home to remodel and you will have plenty of it.

If you know of any remodelers in the area that you can call, ask them if they ever come across a home with lath and plaster walls that they are going to be working on that you would like to come over and help demo, and I'm sure they would give you it for free.

-luke

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post #4 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Wall Lathe

Thanks, I believe you're exactly right by identifying this as 'wall lathe'. Searching for wall lathe took me to a site with a tutorial on how to use it on a wall, which is exactly what I'm after. (http://remodelista.com/posts/diy-lat...y-ice-cream-co)

Like you suggested, the tutorial also said "keep your eyes peeled for demolitions and renovations". This will be the hardest part, not sure how easy it to come by. But at least I now have some direction!

This also led me to idea of using 1 x 3 furring strips. Not really what I'm after, but it may do if I can't find wall lathe.
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 03:59 PM
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Make your own on a table saw with...um...the wrong blade? I've noticed at times that ripping wood will leave a bit of rough saw blade marks on it. Most people would be trying to figure out how to make it smoother, but I was wondering how to make it worse instead. I figure either a dull/dirty blade, or the wrong blade such as a crosscut for ripping, or something else even. Paneling blade maybe? There's got to be some way to make the wood face be rough when finished sawing. Those pictures above show saw blade marks in them.

I thought of ripping 2x materials through the table saw, into thin strips. Start out with a 2x6 or wider, and rip off a strip from one edge, them reset the fence to rip another strip the same thickness. Just be careful when you get down to the thinner widths of board left to work with. You don't want to run 1 1/2 inch or less between the blade and fence. When what's left from the board gets that thin you need a jig after that. I've made strips as thin as 3/16 thick on the table saw from resawing the edge of 2x material before. It takes patience though. Besides resetting the fence each time, you'd have to go slow with a rough cutting blade.

Other than this, I've been on many remodeling jobs where this stuff was in the walls behind the plaster. We tore it out and threw it away by the gobs. It would have been very hard to clean any of it up with all that plaster stuck to it. In the very oldest homes, it fell off fairly easily though. It was deteriorated. Be careful using this as a source of wood though. The knob and tube wiring in those homes has an insulation that is covered in asbestos. The dust from this is black and will be all over your hands from handling it. Don't breathe it, and if you help in demo of those houses to get the wood, wear a mask.

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post #6 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Duane, good advice.

For what it's worth, it appears the box stores do still carry wood lath. (Note no 'e' in lath, when searching their sites). Of course they're missing the saw marks and great aged look of reclaimed wood lath, but again, it's a decent fall back. With the right stain, it could take on an older appearance.

I like the roughness found at Menards: http://www.menards.com/main/building...620-c-9935.htm
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 04:33 PM
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I'd say that roughness helped adhere the plaster to it way back when.

You can age wood somewhat by leaving it in the weather to turn gray, get it wet to stain it, either with rain or a hose, get it dirty and brush off the dirt. Use topsoil so it blackens it, or brown dirt, depending on how dark you want it. I've tried several tricks to fake wood aging for some projects I've done. You can get good results with spray paint too, but indirectly painting it only. Let the overspray settle on the wood, or hold the can way back further than normal so it only mists the surface. This will darken the wood but not actually paint it outright. Use gray and brown paints. Black has been too dark for me and doesn't turn out right.

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post #8 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane Bledsoe
I'd say that roughness helped adhere the plaster to it way back when.
Plaster lath was installed green, hence the rough finish. And besides, why waste time milling wood smooth that will never be seen??
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane Bledsoe View Post
I thought of ripping 2x materials through the table saw, into thin strips. Start out with a 2x6 or wider, and rip off a strip from one edge, them reset the fence to rip another strip the same thickness. Just be careful when you get down to the thinner widths of board left to work with. You don't want to run 1 1/2 inch or less between the blade and fence. When what's left from the board gets that thin you need a jig after that. I've made strips as thin as 3/16 thick on the table saw from resawing the edge of 2x material before. It takes patience though. Besides resetting the fence each time, you'd have to go slow with a rough cutting blade.
Just curious why you would do it this way - I just set the fence to the thickness I want the strip, and just rip off as many as needed.

Alexis de Tocqueville was a very smart man.
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwnewbie View Post
Hello. I recently saw an entire store wall covered with narrow, rough cut planks of wood, (approximately .25" thick and 2" tall). They looked aged, I'm not sure if they were recycled or simply stained. Regardless, does anyone know where I can buy this type of wood? I don't see it on the big box store's websites. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Pallet wood is both thicker and wider than that.

George
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post #11 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 08:35 PM
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I didn't see where you were from, but here in the Houston area, businesses are always putting used pallets and crates on Craigslist for free. I've cruised behind grocery stores and other business parks to scavenge. I didn't go out stealing, just looked for and asked small business guys if they needed the pallets. Most don't, they just don't know there are people like you and me out there looking for unique projects. One mans trash is another mans treasure!
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-27-2012, 10:17 PM
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Just curious why you would do it this way - I just set the fence to the thickness I want the strip, and just rip off as many as needed.
I thought of this too and did it a few times successfully but read online that having such small strips ripped between the fence and blade can allow them to be flung out at you once they are ripped free of the main piece. Once, I had this happen to me as well. Not ripping small strips but ripping a part about an inch across instead. It was a board about a foot long and I ripped a strip about an inch across, and when it came free it promptly was caught by the blade and hurled out at me at just below waist height, fast enough to make me wish I'd been wearing a cup. It was a direct hit to the boys. THAT HURT! After that, I was a believer in not doing trapped cuts anymore.

Last edited by Duane Bledsoe; 11-27-2012 at 10:20 PM.
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post #13 of 15 Old 11-28-2012, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane Bledsoe

I thought of this too and did it a few times successfully but read online that having such small strips ripped between the fence and blade can allow them to be flung out at you once they are ripped free of the main piece. Once, I had this happen to me as well. Not ripping small strips but ripping a part about an inch across instead. It was a board about a foot long and I ripped a strip about an inch across, and when it came free it promptly was caught by the blade and hurled out at me at just below waist height, fast enough to make me wish I'd been wearing a cup. It was a direct hit to the boys. THAT HURT! After that, I was a believer in not doing trapped cuts anymore.
Always use a push stick. If you have control over the workpiece the chances of a kickback are far less.
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post #14 of 15 Old 11-28-2012, 10:08 AM
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Too bad you weren't closer to me and I saw this thread about a year ago as I just remodeled a house with lath and plaster and threw away lots of lath.

-luke
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post #15 of 15 Old 11-28-2012, 06:38 PM
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Unsealed this stuff is terrible. You get a ton of these little splinters from wood lath. This could be a problem for anyone touching them like kids or maybe wives.
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