Hi I am doing through tenants for the first time and my measurements are a little off. I've got a little over 1/16 overhang on the ends of my mortise boards that I need to remove. I can think of a couple ways to fix this, but what is the best way to fix it. Thanks David
If the overhang is the only problem you could sand it off with a disc sander. You could also set up a straight edge and trim it off with a circular saw or router. I just wonder how the rail being more than a 16th out of position will affect the project.
Table saw, spacer board against fence same width as outside of blade, overhang sits ahead of spacer, spacer and panel pushed through saw to cut off overhang.
If your fence will move over far enough to the right, use the spacer and run the left side of the work completely through the saw. This will trim a slight amount from that side making it a clean and flush cut. Then flip it around and trim off the other side minus the spacer.
That's what I'd do because I can on my saw. :wink:
Hey guys thanks for all the suggestions. I never considered using the tablesaw with the spacer, sounds like the easiest and probably cleanest way to get it done. Still learning my hand planes so little scared of that. Have a disc sander but it has 60 grit paper in it so that may be a little tough. Pull saw sounds like a good idea, Little worried about chip out on the end though. Top will have a rabbit inside, so I can cut a deeper rabbit to account from my error. In woodworking for 40 years as a hobby. Just built my dream shop and I want to Learn to do things the right way. The shop full of new machines are useless if my skills aren’t improving. Thanks David
I would share, as a traditional woodworker, that your "mistake" is actually the proper way many such projects are done to begin with...so...as such not a mistake at all!
The "trimming" is done after construction or "test assembly" (if any?) and typically done with a hand saw "close" to ideal and then "finished" with a plane...usually of the "jointer" family as the most common...
Well Opossum, you just go right ahead and plane away, but avoid the tear out when your plane hits the ends grain on the far side of the stroke.
Me, I'm running the "finished" piece right through the table saw like it's just another workpiece. However, I will put a sacrificial piece across the end to minimize tearout. It will NOT chew up work faster IF you know how to use it and after 50 years, I feel pretty comfortable with mine. :vs_cool:
I make all my frame and panel assemblies 4mm oversized in each direction and trim each side around 2mm on the table saw to ensure squareness and final dimensions. With a good blade and a backer strip on any cross cuts to prevent tear out you’re good to go. The table saw is your friend.
Thanks for all the tips and advice I sure need them. Was making some angled tendons today and I messed up on them twice before I finally got it right. I surely hope I’m learning from all of mistakes I seem to make a lot of them. Maybe his old age I don’t know. The good thing is I’m retired so I have lots of time to figure them out. I hoped that the top-of-the-line equipment and top-of-the-line tools would make things easier, but its the human factor that’s killing me and my projects.
Don't fret it. I'm amateur, and I make plenty of "mistakes". I'm sure there are a lot of pros here who still make imperfect measurements and cuts. Many mistakes can be hidden/made imperceptible in some fashion, and no one will never know if you don't tell them.
Just for the record, there are a couple of ways to prevent tear-out. First, you could use a razor knife or a sharp chisel and score the end at the final cut location. 1/32" - 1/16" deep. Go deeper if you're hand planing the end grain. If using a table saw with a crosscut sled, using a good quality blade will not give you tear out. I use Freud's industrial line cut-off blade, 80 tooth ATB. No tear-outs.
And if I had to flush that up, I would use either the crosscut sled on the table saw, or the chop saw. I am assuming this is only dry fit at present, so that it can be disassembled to make the cut. If it's already glued, I would set up a straight edge and trim it with a router and straight bit. You guys can talk all you want about what a snap it is to hand plane end grain. Have at it.
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