Warped box top - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Warped box top

I am making my daughter a toybox. It has a laminated top that is 52"x22". Made out of cherry and maple. I clamped it up with biscuits on a flat surface, but now it is warped a little and wont sit flat. Any ideas on how to fix it/not have that problem again? Thanks
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 06:05 PM
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ive had those problems
anxious to see if some good solutions come out here
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 06:10 PM
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Got any pics? Which way did it warp? Twist, cup, etc.

"Say hello to my little friend" Macie Clark, Christmas 2010

http://texaswoodlot.blogspot.com
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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I can try to get some pics for you. Having camera issues, but will see what I can do. It bowed up away from the table it was sitting on. It has some natural edges that need to be up, so I cant reverse the "up" and "down" sides.
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Here we go with an attempt at photos...let's hope it works. The end grain pictures show it sitting on a table and the gaps that have appeared due to the warping.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 06:35 PM
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WELCOME TO THE FORUM

Its out of shape may be in how you glued it up. Personally, I don't use biscuits, but the thickness and width of the sections could be contributory. The method of clamping and the pressures you used could also do it. You may try over bending with weights and/or clamps, the other way and hope it flattens out.










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post #7 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. When you say it may be the pressure and clamping technique would that indicate clamping to tight? All my clamps were on the top of the blank. Should I alternate the clamps?
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 07:37 PM
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This is part of the problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmckinlay View Post
Thanks for the advice. When you say it may be the pressure and clamping technique would that indicate clamping to tight? All my clamps were on the top of the blank. Should I alternate the clamps?
Clamps should be alternated top on bottom to distribute forces evenly. The use of "cauls" is also desirable to keep the sections flat. See this: http://www.newwoodworker.com/cauls.html
and this: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...ril/cauls.html

If this were mine I would cut the 3 pieces apart on the table saw using the thinnest kerf blade I had and then use the proper gluing procedure above. This will take about 1/4" of width from the top. This may not be desirable or possible.
The grain orientation is also a factor, so try to balance the
grains working out from center. Cherry is also known to move a little after machining/planing. If you separate the pieces let them acclimate for a few days before reassembly.
Biscuits really don't add strength or prevent warping. JMO bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-04-2011 at 07:39 PM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 07:54 PM
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At this point the repair is pretty simple. You did not explain how you dressed the edges before joining, or I missed it. If the edges were not perfectly square with the faces that could be the cause of the warping. And, yes, alternating the clamps and applying even pressure is very important also.

I would simply saw down the middle of all the glue joints and then dress the edges with a jointer to make sure they are nice and square, and then re-glue everything. I would think that would only take about 1/2 an hour.

Bret
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 08:25 PM
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this link or one like it that Woodthings posted would really make a great sticky in my opinion

http://www.newwoodworker.com/cauls.html
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post #11 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola Ranch View Post
At this point the repair is pretty simple. You did not explain how you dressed the edges before joining, or I missed it. If the edges were not perfectly square with the faces that could be the cause of the warping. And, yes, alternating the clamps and applying even pressure is very important also.

I would simply saw down the middle of all the glue joints and then dress the edges with a jointer to make sure they are nice and square, and then re-glue everything. I would think that would only take about 1/2 an hour.

Bret

I agree that this would be the way to go. The initial edges didn't have to be off much to be part of the cause.










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post #12 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 08:52 PM
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Great info/site on wood movement

http://www.morlanwoodgifts.com/MM011.ASP?pageno=82 bill

Just found this also!!! http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-04-2011 at 08:57 PM.
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post #13 of 13 Old 01-04-2011, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thx for all the great advice. I did use a joiner on the edges. The wood was S2S at purchase and looked straight, so I think they edges were ok. I guess cutting and re-gluing with the proper clamping technique would be the way to go. THX AGAIN...this is a great resource site for a budding woodworker!
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