Veneering Curved surfaces - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-13-2020, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Veneering Curved surfaces

Hello! First time posting and I’m glad to be here! This will be my first time using a 10 mill paper back Oak veneer. My question is can you provide any tips for measuring, cutting and applying veneer on curved edges on a speaker tower?
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-13-2020, 10:04 PM
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welcome to the forum, KC.
what part of the world are you in ?
what have you done so far to learn how to apply veneer to different substrates ??
like - YouTube videos, reading books, google, etc.
thin veneer is easily cut with scissors, box knife, X-Acto knife, veneer razor saw, etc.
for odd shaped projects, I use the cloth measuring tape because a steel tape measure just isn't as accurate for me.
and of course, "dry fitting" sort of narrows down the opportunity for mistakes.

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post #3 of 12 Old 08-13-2020, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hello John, and thanks for your reply! I am from Houston, Texas currently. I have only watched YouTube videos on the topic. I feel confident on the rectangular stretch shapes, but just a little uncertain about the curves and the front of the speaker tower application.

.[/QUOTE]
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post #4 of 12 Old 08-13-2020, 11:51 PM
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First off, I trust that you plan to use contact cement for a paper backed veneer.

Secondly, you don't really cut the veneer prior to application, except to make it easy enough to handle. You do your final trimming after it has been applied, and use a router, or sander, or knife, or whatever is most applicable for the type of corner/edge you need.

Third, Apply the veneer in such a sequence so you facilitate overlap of faces. In this case, you apply the sides and front first, trim that flat to the top, and then apply the top. This causes the top to overlap the sides so you don't see the seam as easily.

Take a look at this link and you can see some of the things I did for joining/seaming veneer prior to application.
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Proj...ableBlog9.html
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-14-2020, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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Rick,

That is a good write up and a fantastic result, thank you for sharing! That gives me good direction to go and I appreciate the guidance. Yes, I will be using the same contact glue that you were using with my paper back veneer.

I like the idea of cutting to overlap and joining together with tape for a mock up. Just to confirm do you suggest mocking up the front and sides first? Please see the pictures I posted below.
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-14-2020, 07:36 AM
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Welcome to the forum! Add your first name to your signature line so we'll know what to call you and it will show in each post (or do you go by KC?). Add your location to your profile, as well.

================================================== ===============
Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait.

The best way to post photos in line with your text is to use Go Advanced below the Quick Reply window. If you’re starting a new thread then you’re automatically in the Advanced editor. Click on the Paper Clip on the ribbon bar and that will bring up a dialogue box where you can browse to your photos. Upload them and then put your cursor where you want a photo, hit the dropdown beside the Paper Clip, and choose the photo you want inserted. If you have several photos and just want them at the end of your text then put your cursor at the end and hit the Insert All on the dropdown list of photos.

Always post a photo rather than a link; most folks won't click on a link. For instance, your thread has over 80 views but the link in your first post has only 11 views, only 4 views in post #5.

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post #7 of 12 Old 08-14-2020, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcbernard2000 View Post
I like the idea of cutting to overlap and joining together with tape for a mock up. Just to confirm do you suggest mocking up the front and sides first? Please see the pictures I posted below.
The blue tape wasn't for mock-up. Those are finished butt joints. The multiple pieces were laid down as a single piece. (That's why I took that follow-up picture showing the finished joint with the green ruler next to it.)

If I were doing this, I would have the speaker laying front-up, and lay veneer down on the front first, and continue wrapping to both sides, all as a single piece lamination.

If you are also laminating the speaker recess where it is not painted black, Make sure you don't put adhesive there when doing the main lamination. You don't want your face veneer to accidentally stick to that (yet).

If you very carefully trim your front face veneer with a small razor blade (EDIT: After it is glued down), You should be able to take that off-cut and apply it to the speaker recess. But that is going to be super tricky to position it. Go back to my table website and look at how I used plastic sheets to prevent the veneer from sticking while I was positioning it. Then you slide the plastic out slowly and let the veneer stick one small section at a time.

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Last edited by Rick Christopherson; 08-14-2020 at 02:43 PM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-14-2020, 02:46 PM
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I decided that my edit above could use a complete follow-up. When veneering the front face, you leave the center hole uncut. After you have pressed down the entire front/sides lamination, then you go back and trim out the center hole with a razor. Use the lip of your recess as a guide for your razor to trim out the center.

After removing that center piece, THEN you apply cement to the center recess and lay the off-cut veneer down.
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-14-2020, 06:50 PM
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The problem with paper back is it's not forgiving on conrltact adhesive with a brush. You really want to spray it. Much better with woodbacking...
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-15-2020, 08:25 AM
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David would you please tell me where the paper clip icon is, because I sure can’t find one on either m6 IPad or computer.

I’ve only recently had pics to post inline on my computer simply by uploading and was surprised because I’m using the exact same protocol as in the past where I’ve only gotten links.

Posting pics on this platform is not very straightforward!

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post #11 of 12 Old 08-15-2020, 09:04 AM
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Robert, When you quick reply... Click go advanced (next to post quick reply below your message).

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post #12 of 12 Old 08-15-2020, 06:41 PM
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Have you considered using hot hide glue instead of contact cement? I am not an expert on veneering but have learned a little watching cabinet makers veneering. They only used hot hide glue. This can be brushed on the substrate first and left to dry. The veneer is applied , no sticks needed to keep the veneer above the glue because the glue activates with heat.
Usually the veneer is held in place with tape or pins, then heat from a heat gun and a laminate roller is used . The roller is applied from the center of the work and rolled from the center out to the edges. After the glue cools, maybe 20 minutes tops the excess veneer can be trimmed. If you do run into a problem with positioning the veneer can be adjusted by reheating the substrate and moving the veneer. This glue is reversible, only heat is needed to remove the veneer if necessary.
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