Under sink waste bin holder dilemma - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 07-31-2018, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If they are going to rebuild the pull out shelf then the tall sides should be permanently fastened to the shelf. Then there should be some kind of blocking attached to the front edge of the side such as a strip that is 3/4"x3/4" where you could attach the door from behind. By doing so you would forever be able to make adjustments on the door. A large door like that is going to warp in time and if it was attached with screws you could loosen the screws and put a shem between the door and the pull out shelf to make it fit right.

The rev-a-shelf hardware could be used with a wooden pull out shelf instead of the wire shelf that came with it. By omitting the wire shelf it could be used with any size door.
Yes, that's doable.

I like the idea of being able to make adjustments to the door in future. Definitely the door will warp. So you think that I should not glue and screw a vertical wood strip to the door? Toolman50 mentioned that this strip of wood will help keep the door at 90 degrees and not tilt out, which I kinda want, not forgetting how heavy and large this door is.

Quoting Toolman50 " glue and screw a strip of wood (approx 3/4 wide x 3/4 thick x 20 long) vertically to the back of the door. I would attach the new 1/4 plywood side piece to this new strip on the door. If glued, it will be strong and will keep the front door at 90 degrees."

Please correct me if I'm wrong, you are telling me that the screw from the new pull-out shelf should go directly into the door and not onto a glued strip on the door?

Thank you for all your help
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post #22 of 27 Old 07-31-2018, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NoThankyou View Post
A small kitchen dust bin, from Walmart is 10" x 14" x 16" high. There are some larger ones 18" high and we use 13 gallon trash bags in those dust bins.

The first thing that you have to do is to find room for two of these, one garbage and one recycles. You do not have room under the sink for even one of the small dust bins.

When my wife allows me in the kitchen, I discovered that under sink storage is usually reserved for soap, detergent, scrubbing pads, etc. i.e. Nothing very tall.

What you need to do is to choose one of your cabinets with drawers and remove 3 of the 4 drawers. In the place of the removed drawers install a frame, for lack of better words, a seat from a two hole out house mounted on a drawer slide. The trash cans will be dropped through the holes and a drawer front attached to the out house seat or frame. Our frame is 22" back to inside of door. Because the dust bins are tapered, they do not rest on their rims in the frame, but almost touch each other.

I find your cabinet depth to be a bit unusual, especially for the Euro style cabinets.

To use an expression, 'You are between a rock and a hard place.'

Good Luck
LOL >>> I really am between a rock and a hard place.

I never knew that cabinet depth can affect me until I started searching for Rev-A-Shelf and other pull-out units :(

Who would think about asking about the depth of kitchen cabinets? Not me anyway.

Even if I do as you mentioned (I have only ONE set of drawers in my kitchen, my husband wanted to pay less so he opted for less drawers) I still need to fix this humongous door to the pull out shelf in a clever way to ensure that the door stays at 90 degrees in spite of continuous pulling and pushing.

Thanks for your ideas, I appreciate the help I'm getting here a lot
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post #23 of 27 Old 07-31-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Huda Alu View Post
Yes, that's doable.

I like the idea of being able to make adjustments to the door in future. Definitely the door will warp. So you think that I should not glue and screw a vertical wood strip to the door? Toolman50 mentioned that this strip of wood will help keep the door at 90 degrees and not tilt out, which I kinda want, not forgetting how heavy and large this door is.

Quoting Toolman50 " glue and screw a strip of wood (approx 3/4 wide x 3/4 thick x 20 long) vertically to the back of the door. I would attach the new 1/4 plywood side piece to this new strip on the door. If glued, it will be strong and will keep the front door at 90 degrees."

Please correct me if I'm wrong, you are telling me that the screw from the new pull-out shelf should go directly into the door and not onto a glued strip on the door?

Thank you for all your help
There are a couple different ways you can have the pull out shelf made. You could make high sides and put a 3/4"x3/4" strip on the shelf to give you something to screw the door to. I would prefer to make the front of the pull out shelf out of plywood just as high as the sides and just screw the door too just like the drawer fronts are screwed to the drawer box.
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post #24 of 27 Old 08-02-2018, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
There are a couple different ways you can have the pull out shelf made. You could make high sides and put a 3/4"x3/4" strip on the shelf to give you something to screw the door to. I would prefer to make the front of the pull out shelf out of plywood just as high as the sides and just screw the door too just like the drawer fronts are screwed to the drawer box.
Thank you for the photo, and details.

I just sent your reply to the contractor.

Let's see what happens.

The contractor ordered the slide and will be starting on the shelf in 10 days.

Fingers crossed.
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post #25 of 27 Old 08-03-2018, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys,
Need your help again. Contractor is buying the attached slide - Italian Blum slide. It's 20" in length and 154-lb load capacity.

Do you think I should buy a slide that will be hassle free for the years to come, rather than depend on the contractor.

Do you think any of the following will be better than what he is getting me?

500-lb. Heavy Duty Full-Extension Drawer Slides - Accuride 9301 (16" to 48")?
http://www.rockler.com/accuride-heav...nto-qa-content

OR
200-lb. Over-Travel Slide For Wide Drawers
http://www.rockler.com/accuride-over...eviews-content

Thanks again.
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post #26 of 27 Old 08-03-2018, 07:56 AM
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The extra heavy duty drawer slides are not going to make the drawer work any better and you are well within the weight limit with standard slides. After all you won't be filling the trash cans with bricks.
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post #27 of 27 Old 08-04-2018, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
The extra heavy duty drawer slides are not going to make the drawer work any better and you are well within the weight limit with standard slides. After all you won't be filling the trash cans with bricks.
LOL
Definitely not bricks.

Thank you Steve
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