Under sink waste bin holder dilemma - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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Under sink waste bin holder dilemma

Hello, I am here seeking help. The company fixing my new kitchen are useless. My husband doesn't care. Please help me fix the following.

I have this huge under sink drawer that is supposed to hold the waste bins.
The door is huge: W 35.5 inches (895mm), H 28 inches (710mm).
The cabinet depth is not the standard 22 inch, it is 20.6 inches (516mm).

Excuse my inch measurements, I use cms usually.

The issue is with the door.
You can see from the photo the door is held to the pull-out unit which is 3.5" high, not enough to hold the weight and height of the door. The door hasn't been used yet and its already tilting out.

I need to add some kind of support midway or near the top of the door. I was thinking of adding a pair of slides near the top to hold it. I am not a carpenter and I don't know if one can fit slides on a pull-out unit. How will the top slides coordinate with the bottom slides?

I thought of replacing the whole thing with Rev-A-shelf but the sizes are all for depth 22 inches. I found units with lesser depth but they are narrower in width :( . I thought of using two separate Rev-A-shelf units one on each side of the waste disposal machine and fix them both to the door. But I am not sure that this will work.

I thought of using a Door Mounting Kit, but the slide doesn't have place to screw the pieces to, besides its not enough to hold the height of the door.

Please give me ideas to better fix the door to the pull-out waste bin holder.

I am open to all suggestions.

Thanks guys.
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post #2 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 07:43 AM
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Is that the door laying down? Having trouble figuring out what I'm looking at.
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post #3 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 08:05 AM
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I install a lot of kitchens. I wouldn't put a trash receptacle setup like that under a sink. First off, after they cut up the bottom to go around the disposal, what are you left with? I would hinge that door and just mount a drawer on the bottom that clears the disposal. I don't usually recommend putting anything under the sink like that.
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post #4 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 10:27 AM
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To strengthen the door and keep it 90 degrees, I think you will need to add a wooden side to at least one side if not both sides. The new piece is short at the back ( 6.6) and high in the front (approx 20). It can be made out of 1/2 thick plywood. This will secure the front of the door which you will be pulling on regularly. The little metal side pieces now shown in the picture would be discarded.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #5 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 10:32 AM
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From what I can see that hardware isn't suited for that application. The drawer for the trash can could be rebuilt with a lot taller on each side to hold the door. It appears the cut out area for the garbage disposal is a little too big and maybe made smaller. I'm not there so it would be difficult to make that call. Ref-a-shelf also makes hardware with brackets which would give additional support for the door.

https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/re...SABEgLa5_D_BwE

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rev-A-Shelf...ng-Kit/3439170
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post #6 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 10:59 AM
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To make the best of a bad situation, I would do the following:

* Rebuild the drawer to maximize the available space. Build the walls tall to protect the garbage disposer and prevent trash from falling over the top into the back space. If you need access to the garbage disposer, remove the drawer.

* Build one or more custom removable boxes to fit in the drawer. Keep the walls relatively thin, say 3/8 inch (9.5 mm). The boxes will hold disposable trash can liners. I would cut handle holes on the sides to make them easy to remove/replace in the drawer. I can think of multiple ways to design the box or boxes, but it would depend on how much space you are able to recover with a new drawer design.

Design 1: One large box in the front of the drawer. Maybe a small box in the back on each side.

Design 2: Two medium boxes filling up each side of the drawer back to front. Maybe a center box between them.

Design 3: Get fancy.
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post #7 of 27 Old 07-28-2018, 01:22 PM
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I do not think that you are going to be able to make any fix to that "mistake" that will be satisfactory in the long run.


I would have the contractor junk what is there. That is really Rube Goldberg. Then make two conventional doors hinged on each side.. For trash receptacles I would something made that can attach easily and be removed easily from the doors. It could even be a wire hoop that holds trash bags.


Typically there is not enough room under a sink with disposal for any type of trash bin. It does not look like there is under yours either.



George
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post #8 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you George for your comment. Unfortunately the door is lacquered by order. To change that will cost extra.

I need to fix whatever is there :(
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post #9 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Tool Agnostic

I called the contractor to rebuild the drawer to make more space for the trash can.

I thought the space was very small but didn't think of asking to rebuild it :(
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post #10 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you both for your comments. I asked the contractor to build sides to the door as per measurements given by Toolman50 - and also asked to have a smaller area cut out for the garbage disposal.

They promised to study my request and come to me tomorrow.

I have a question: what is the best way to fix the sides to the door?
Thnaks
Appreciate your help a lot.
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post #11 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you firehawkmph for your comment.

The door is too big to be hinged. Its 35" in width and 28" in height.
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post #12 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
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JIMMIEM

The first photo shows you the door with 4 arrows pointing to it.

The second photo shows you the drawer without the door with a cut out section to accommodate the garbage disposal.

Hope all is clear now.
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post #13 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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The Rev-A-shelf link you sent is for a space bigger than what I have left on both sides of the garbage disposal.

That would have been awesome.

For some reason my cabinets are all 20 inches deep.
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post #14 of 27 Old 07-29-2018, 09:51 AM
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I don’t have the ability to attach a drawing for clarity but this is how I would afix the drawer side to the door.
First, after reading all the responses I think I would change my 1/2” side to 1/4” plywood. I also agree that the back doesn’t have to be the short 6.6” but can be taller.
To attach the side to the door I would first glue and screw a strip of wood (approx 3/4” wide x 3/4” thick x 20” long) vertically to the back of the door. I would attach the new 1/4” plywood side piece to this new strip on the door. If glued, it will be strong and will keep the front door at 90 degrees.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #15 of 27 Old 07-30-2018, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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The glued plywood is a very good idea. Thanks a million.

So if the sides are quarter inch plywood, the bottom will be how thick?

Should I ask the contractor to make a complete 4 sided box with the sides taller infront and shorter at the back? or will it be 3 sided only since its being fitted to the door and the door will be its fourth side?

Thank you so much.
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post #16 of 27 Old 07-30-2018, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huda Alu View Post
Toolman50
The glued plywood is a very good idea. Thanks a million.

So if the sides are quarter inch plywood, the bottom will be how thick?

Should I ask the contractor to make a complete 4 sided box with the sides taller infront and shorter at the back? or will it be 3 sided only since its being fitted to the door and the door will be its fourth side?

Thank you so much.
You may can use the same bottom. If not, a 1/2 bottom will work fine.
Your contractor should be able to make the needed changes to satisfy you on this. Its not necessary to have short sides in the back. A previous poster pointed this out and I agree. The space on each side looks small to hold a trash can but you may have something for the small space that will work. Im assuming trash on one side and recyclables on the other.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #17 of 27 Old 07-30-2018, 11:51 AM
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my opinion would be to just lose the vertical members of the cut out, lay a full size drawer bottom on the drawer (minus cutout for s trap/supply lines, and use it like that. you will eventually find what can/receptacle size will fit under there, and you will get more drawer to use.
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post #18 of 27 Old 07-30-2018, 11:29 PM
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If they are going to rebuild the pull out shelf then the tall sides should be permanently fastened to the shelf. Then there should be some kind of blocking attached to the front edge of the side such as a strip that is 3/4"x3/4" where you could attach the door from behind. By doing so you would forever be able to make adjustments on the door. A large door like that is going to warp in time and if it was attached with screws you could loosen the screws and put a shem between the door and the pull out shelf to make it fit right.

The rev-a-shelf hardware could be used with a wooden pull out shelf instead of the wire shelf that came with it. By omitting the wire shelf it could be used with any size door.
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post #19 of 27 Old 07-31-2018, 01:30 AM
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A small kitchen dust bin, from Walmart is 10" x 14" x 16" high. There are some larger ones 18" high and we use 13 gallon trash bags in those dust bins.

The first thing that you have to do is to find room for two of these, one garbage and one recycles. You do not have room under the sink for even one of the small dust bins.

When my wife allows me in the kitchen, I discovered that under sink storage is usually reserved for soap, detergent, scrubbing pads, etc. i.e. Nothing very tall.

What you need to do is to choose one of your cabinets with drawers and remove 3 of the 4 drawers. In the place of the removed drawers install a frame, for lack of better words, a seat from a two hole out house mounted on a drawer slide. The trash cans will be dropped through the holes and a drawer front attached to the out house seat or frame. Our frame is 22" back to inside of door. Because the dust bins are tapered, they do not rest on their rims in the frame, but almost touch each other.

I find your cabinet depth to be a bit unusual, especially for the Euro style cabinets.

To use an expression, 'You are between a rock and a hard place.'

Good Luck

Rich
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post #20 of 27 Old 07-31-2018, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
my opinion would be to just lose the vertical members of the cut out, lay a full size drawer bottom on the drawer (minus cutout for s trap/supply lines, and use it like that. you will eventually find what can/receptacle size will fit under there, and you will get more drawer to use.
Thats smart
Didn't think of that.
This way waste will not fall through
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