Uhmw tape - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 02-28-2018, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Uhmw tape

Making a shop cabinet with pullout drawers all out of plywood.. I was wondering if I could have the drawers run on hardwood cleats with a strip of uhmw tape. I am assuming I will have a decent amount of weight in the drawers

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post #2 of 25 Old 02-28-2018, 09:11 PM
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I wouldn't use uhmw tape. It will eventually peal off. If you make the runners out of hard maple it should last for decades before you notice any wear. Another option would be to cover the face side with formica. If formica is applied with wood glue it will stay from now on.
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post #3 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I wouldn't use uhmw tape. It will eventually peal off. If you make the runners out of hard maple it should last for decades before you notice any wear. Another option would be to cover the face side with formica. If formica is applied with wood glue it will stay from now on.
I have built a lot of drawers just like Steve is talking about, they are still holding up well. Just a suggestion, if you do use formica, bevel the edges of the formica so it won't dig into the part that slides on the hpl. Oh and wax helps a lot also.

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post #4 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need hardwood on hardwood?
Also should I just have the cleat run under the drawer or mount another to the drawer?

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post #5 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 03:45 AM
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I have made drawers with the formica under the drawer sides and also put a strip of formica on the side of the cabinet so the side of the drawer won't rub the cabinet but will rub the formica.

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post #6 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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I have made drawers with the formica under the drawer sides and also put a strip of formica on the side of the cabinet so the side of the drawer won't rub the cabinet but will rub the formica.
Would you mind taking a picture of the drawer cleats with the formica so I can see what it looks like I can't even picture it

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post #7 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 09:46 AM
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When you make wooden drawer runners over time the wood just erodes away if you use too soft of a wood. It's almost like there was sandpaper attached to the bottom of the drawer box. This is the reason I suggested using a hard hardwood such as maple. I brought up the formica in case you don't have a place to purchase a hard hardwood. The formica would protect a soft wood from the wear. You would just cut a narrow strip and cover the top of the runner.

Personally I would prefer using a hard hardwood. The formica would function well but would give a jury rigged look to the cabinet.
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post #8 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 11:27 AM
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There are also plastic drawer glides available. These glides keep the drawer from rubbing wood on wood and work well. Inexpensive and very functional.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #9 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 01:52 PM
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I thought I had used the formica (hpl) on the cabinets in our bedroom, I used hardwood instead. I have used formica a lot of times but for my own use like in storage or shop. The only time you can see the formica is when you take the drawer completely out anyway.

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post #10 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
When you make wooden drawer runners over time the wood just erodes away if you use too soft of a wood. It's almost like there was sandpaper attached to the bottom of the drawer box. This is the reason I suggested using a hard hardwood such as maple. I brought up the formica in case you don't have a place to purchase a hard hardwood. The formica would protect a soft wood from the wear. You would just cut a narrow strip and cover the top of the runner.

Personally I would prefer using a hard hardwood. The formica would function well but would give a jury rigged look to the cabinet.
Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I have some maple so I may use what I have.. At that point just screw and glue to cabinet and have the bottom of the draw run on the maple?

Or if I use formica then a plywood cleat with a strip of formica glued to the top?

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post #11 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 04:12 PM
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Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I have some maple so I may use what I have.. At that point just screw and glue to cabinet and have the bottom of the draw run on the maple?

Or if I use formica then a plywood cleat with a strip of formica glued to the top?
Either one would functionally be fine. I got to where I was using formica when I had an antique repair shop and I worked for antique dealers. Sometimes they would bring me a piece the runner was worn out and wanted a cheap fix so I filled the valley with bondo and stuck a piece of formica over the top.
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post #12 of 25 Old 03-01-2018, 08:40 PM
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My shop drawers are pine on pine, going strong for well over 2 decades. Occasionally I pull them out and rub on some wax. If you start with hardwood, wax them and you'll be fine.
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post #13 of 25 Old 03-05-2018, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe silly question

If I use hardwood slides whats to stop the drawers from tipping forward when extended?

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post #14 of 25 Old 03-05-2018, 08:11 PM
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If I use hardwood slides whats to stop the drawers from tipping forward when extended?
The drawer couldn't be fully extended like with mechanical slides. Some of the draw would have to stay in the cabinet where you have a runner above the drawer box too keeping it from tipping.
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post #15 of 25 Old 03-05-2018, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If I use hardwood slides whats to stop the drawers from tipping forward when extended?
The drawer couldn't be fully extended like with mechanical slides. Some of the draw would have to stay in the cabinet where you have a runner above the drawer box too keeping it from tipping.
Ok so a runner under their drawer that the draw slides on and the one above the drawer to keep it from tipping. Got it!
Now what about a drawer stop would you say maybe on the top runner about 1/4 the way back?

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post #16 of 25 Old 03-05-2018, 10:03 PM
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If you need a stop to stop the drawer from going in too deep just put a stop on the front rail which goes behind the drawer front. See the picture in the post 7. If you want a stop that keeps the drawer from coming completely out that is more difficult both to make and install. Those are usually a pin going up on the back of the drawer box which meets another going out on the upper runner.
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post #17 of 25 Old 03-06-2018, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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If you need a stop to stop the drawer from going in too deep just put a stop on the front rail which goes behind the drawer front. See the picture in the post 7. If you want a stop that keeps the drawer from coming completely out that is more difficult both to make and install. Those are usually a pin going up on the back of the drawer box which meets another going out on the upper runner.
What if I don't have a front rail?
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post #18 of 25 Old 03-06-2018, 01:32 PM
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Oh, you're making a frameless cabinet. In that case, the easiest method is mechanical drawer slides. They have stops built in. Have you considered those?
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post #19 of 25 Old 03-06-2018, 06:42 PM
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What if I don't have a front rail?
OK, for that type cabinet you could put 3/8"x3/4" strips on the side of the cabinet and make a dado in the drawer sides to slide the drawer over. How ever thick you make the drawer front you set the strips back from the front for the purpose of a stop.
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post #20 of 25 Old 03-06-2018, 09:07 PM
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Steve, I've made the side mount wood slides before, and they're great for the "in" stop. I don't know of an easy way to use runners and include an "out" stop on a frameless cabinet?
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