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-   -   Tuning up and cleaning antique planes (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/tuning-up-cleaning-antique-planes-47447/)

thyde1108 01-22-2013 08:17 PM

Tuning up and cleaning antique planes
 
Hey everybody. I've searched around and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I bought a few vintage Stanley Bedrock and Bailey planes that vary in condition. One is excellent and others have a lot of Japanning gone and rust on the blades. I can't find any videos or articles that really help me out. I've seen some before and after pics of other people's work and they started worse than mine so I know it can be done. Any tips on where to go or what products to use to clean them up to "new" standards?

Thank you!

DannyT 01-22-2013 10:13 PM


thyde1108 01-22-2013 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyT

Thank you so much! I'm embarrassed I couldn't find anything! I should have known Dave would have the answers....:)

Dave Paine 01-23-2013 09:08 AM

Hello Tim,

Happy to see someone else wanting to restore good old iron.

The search results link is not working for me. In case the Dave is me, and the results did not include my recent thread "Latest rust bucket planes", providing the link.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/l...-planes-46494/

The Sargent looks bad, but turned out to be complete, jappaning in terrific shape, only the knob and tote needed to be replaced. I am happy with the end results.

The Stanley No 5 sounds like yours. The jappaning flaked off. I ended up needing to remove back to bare metal. I had a friend who was able to sand blast for me. If you do not have the ability to sand blast, then use electrolysis which will remove the jappaning AND rust.

I updated the thread the other day after painting the casting and back of the frog.

I have sanded the knob and tote and presently applying the finish. I will update with pictures later.

I still have to find replacement Y lever. I bought a no-name parts plane, but was surprised to find the parts are different.

EricD has a very useful post on using oxalic acid aka Wood bleach, instead of Evapo-Rust. Much less expensive and does a good job.

Dominick has a good thread on using electrolysis. Within the thread is a useful video.

Another plane restore thread which includes a link to Timetestedtools (Don) blog on hand plane restoration. Well worth reading.

here is my complete restoration blog. http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com...re-the-dw-way/

thyde1108 01-23-2013 10:24 AM

Thanks a lot Dave. The link did work for me and I looked at your thread. Very helpful. In fact, I just bought a gallon of EvapoRust this morning. Anxious to get going. I've got some reading to do on electrolysis to better understand it. You might remember - I wasn't a chemistry major :)

I will take some before and after pictures as I go and might be back with a few other questions. Always good to hear from you.

BTW - I just found this link which is pretty helpful as well: http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-gr...-electrolysis/

Dave Paine 01-23-2013 10:35 AM

I forgot to add the link to Dominicks recent electrolysis thread.

This has all the information.

It seems washing soda (Sodium Carbonate) is preferred over baking soda ( Sodium BiCarbonate), but the latter worked for Dominick.

Washing soda should be in the laundry aisle or at hardware store.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/r...rolysis-47281/

I found putting the components in Evapo-Rust in a big ziplock bag helped to keep the water from evaporating.

If the water evaporates and exposes the metal, you can get a "tide" mark which is difficult to remove.

Also I did not have a tray of appropriate dimensions so that I could cover everything.

I look forward to seeing the before and after pictures.

Let me know if you have any questions.


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