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post #41 of 74 Old 12-12-2013, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainMarvel View Post
Thanks to/Because of this thread discussion and information, I just ordered my T2 Fence and Rail System from TooBarn.com.

I have an older Craftsman 113 series belt-drive table-saw (CraigsList find) and the only remaining piece I've been waiting for is a decent fence system. I was contemplating going the DIY route with aluminum t-slot extrusions ... but even then, the parts would come out to between $250-$300.

Can't wait to receive it . . . anyone know how long "standard shipping" takes from Nebraska?
(I'm in California)

This is pretty much what I'm planning to build for my table saw and new T2 Fence . . .


TOM

Understanding that you may not see success instantly, but that all your good decisions add up to a cumulative success over time is what separates those who "get there" and those who don't. Every day you either get further away from your goals, or closer to them . . . Its up to YOU."
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post #42 of 74 Old 12-16-2013, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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I received the T2 fence on Friday. It's certainly a massive and heavy fence, it makes the original Craftsman fence seem like a toy.

My saw has the splitter/blade guard mount that extends out the back just under the table surface. I can either cut it off (round rod) flush with the edge of the table or I can notch the rear T2 rail. The rail would need to be notched about 3/8", which would remove the horizontal part of the rail since its only 1/4" thick.

I don't usually use the splitter/guard, but cutting off the rod would mean it could never be used.

Has anyone dealt with this issue on their Craftsman? I don't know if this is type of splitter is common on the Craftsman. An online search shows a few cases mentioned and the solution was to cut the rod off.

If you did cut off the splitter/guard, what did you use instead?

Steve
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post #43 of 74 Old 12-16-2013, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cambriahouse View Post
I received the T2 fence on Friday. It's certainly a massive and heavy fence, it makes the original Craftsman fence seem like a toy.
Hoping to receive mine tomorrow ... at least that's what the tracking info says.

TOM

Understanding that you may not see success instantly, but that all your good decisions add up to a cumulative success over time is what separates those who "get there" and those who don't. Every day you either get further away from your goals, or closer to them . . . Its up to YOU."
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post #44 of 74 Old 12-18-2013, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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I have another question.

Should I mount the T2 full to the right and get a lot more rip capacity to the right, which means no left side rip capacity?

My current craftsman fence doesn't go to the left of the blade, so I never ripped with a fence on the left. How useful is the capacity to set the rip fence to the left? The only thing I can think of would be a bevel cut where the blade tilts toward the fence (left side fence) instead of away from the fence (right side fence). This way if you are cutting a bevel on a narrow piece, the piece would be trapped between the blade, fence and table. When I cut a bevel on a narrow piece now, the piece tends to lift up and since its narrow and near the blade, it seems dangerous to try and hold it down with anything.

If I mounted the fence to the right only, it would also keep the rear rail from interfering with the splitter/guard sticking out of the back of the table.

Thanks
Steve
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post #45 of 74 Old 12-18-2013, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cambriahouse
I have another question.

Should I mount the T2 full to the right and get a lot more rip capacity to the right, which means no left side rip capacity?

My current craftsman fence doesn't go to the left of the blade, so I never ripped with a fence on the left. How useful is the capacity to set the rip fence to the left? The only thing I can think of would be a bevel cut where the blade tilts toward the fence (left side fence) instead of away from the fence (right side fence). This way if you are cutting a bevel on a narrow piece, the piece would be trapped between the blade, fence and table. When I cut a bevel on a narrow piece now, the piece tends to lift up and since its narrow and near the blade, it seems dangerous to try and hold it down with anything.

If I mounted the fence to the right only, it would also keep the rear rail from interfering with the splitter/guard sticking out of the back of the table.

Thanks
Steve
You really need some fence on both sides.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.


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post #46 of 74 Old 12-18-2013, 02:38 PM
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While I have mine centered....I don't know that I've ever used the fence to the left.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #47 of 74 Old 12-18-2013, 11:44 PM
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So? Where are the build pics? Now is not the time to be dawdling.
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post #48 of 74 Old 12-19-2013, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post

You really need some fence on both sides.

Al

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Why? Im getting ready to put the same fence on the same saw and I have no intention of ever using the fence to the left of the blade. Im curious as to why anyone would need to? My plan is to mount the rails to the saw to gain as much rip capacity as possible to the right of the blade.

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post #49 of 74 Old 12-19-2013, 06:13 AM
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I haven't cut to the left side of the blade since I got rid of my right tilt saw in 2003.
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post #50 of 74 Old 12-19-2013, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rbk123 View Post
So? Where are the build pics? Now is not the time to be dawdling.
I know exactly what you mean!

I have had the fence sitting here since last Friday waiting for a chance to put it on. With all the Christmas activities going on, I have found precious little time available. Also, I have to order a ton of maple melamine, hard maple face frame stock, and a good ($$) melamine blade. Sometimes being an engineer is a detriment, as I tend to over-analyze the options instead of just picking a good option and doing it!

The fence should go on this weekend. I am taking a few vacation days and along with the company holidays should give me a week straight of home time to work on everything.

My 18, 15 and 10 year old sons will be helping, so I will be working at a little slower rate so I can explain why we are doing each step. Two out of the three sons are highly interested in building things and using tools so it should be fun.

As for the fence, I am going to see if extending it fully right will create any fit problems in the shop. If not, then I will probably place it fully to the right. This probably means adding some support legs to the end to keep it from tipping.

Steve
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post #51 of 74 Old 12-20-2013, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster

Why? Im getting ready to put the same fence on the same saw and I have no intention of ever using the fence to the left of the blade. Im curious as to why anyone would need to? My plan is to mount the rails to the saw to gain as much rip capacity as possible to the right of the blade.
Which way does your blade tilt? If its right you better rethink cutting on the left.

Al

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post #52 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 12:27 AM
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No, my saw is a left tilt. Regardless of which way my saw tilts, Im curious why you advice to have a little fence on both sides of the blade?

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post #53 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster
No, my saw is a left tilt. Regardless of which way my saw tilts, Im curious why you advice to have a little fence on both sides of the blade?
Because that's the way they always are.

No really. If you had a right tilt saw you wouldn't want to rip much without moving to the left of the blade. I do use my Unifence on both sides and don't see the need to rip anymore than 50" on the right so why not mount for both sides. Your just going to waste whatever you don't put on the left. Unless its less than 50".

Your fence rail will also help correct a warped top. Which was the case on my one and only Crapsman. I might have kept it after I put a Biesemyer fence on it if I could have also swapped out the underpowered motor and the terrible tilting mechanism.

Al

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post #54 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
Because that's the way they always are.

No really. If you had a right tilt saw you wouldn't want to rip much without moving to the left of the blade. I do use my Unifence on both sides and don't see the need to rip anymore than 50" on the right so why not mount for both sides. Your just going to waste whatever you don't put on the left. Unless its less than 50".

Your fence rail will also help correct a warped top. Which was the case on my one and only Crapsman. I might have kept it after I put a Biesemyer fence on it if I could have also swapped out the underpowered motor and the terrible tilting mechanism.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
Yeah, I understand on a right tilt saw, you want most, if not all of your fence to the left of the blade. On a left tilt, I never understood why the rails extend to the left of the blade. Ive never used a fence to the left of the blade so I was curious of your suggestion. The T2 fence in question though is only designed for a 30" rip to the right of the blade. I dunno how often Illl ever need 30" but Ill mount the fence to gain as much rip capacity as possible. Mounting any of the rail to the left of the blade is just wasted for me.

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post #55 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 01:44 PM
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I don't understand the reasoning behind this tilt issue? Why would the direction of tilt matter to which side you fence is on? I'm not trying to argue: just understand.

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post #56 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 02:17 PM
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I use the fence on both sides of the blade. My Delta fence will allow a angled edge to slide under the fence when ripping angles on both sides. Moving the fence to the left allows the long edge to be higher on the fence
I have used craftsman standard fences to the same affect.
You have to set it up to suit you and adjust accordingly.
Good luck
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post #57 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 02:52 PM
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I don't understand the reasoning behind this tilt issue? Why would the direction of tilt matter to which side you fence is on? I'm not trying to argue: just understand.
It only matters for beveled cuts. If you have the fence on the right of the blade with a right tilt saw on a beveled cut, the offcut is trapped under the blade and you risk it being fired out of the back of the saw at you.

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post #58 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BassBlaster View Post
It only matters for beveled cuts. If you have the fence on the right of the blade with a right tilt saw on a beveled cut, the offcut is trapped under the blade and you risk it being fired out of the back of the saw at you.
even if the work piece (not the offcut) is between the beveled blade of a right tilt saw and the fence (to the right of the blade), there is still a somewhat greater risk of a kickback than if the work piece is between the beveled blade of a left tilt (tilts away from fence with the fence to the right of the blade) and the fence.

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #59 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 05:24 PM
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Interesting. I usually am using a miter when I am doing angled cuts.

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post #60 of 74 Old 12-21-2013, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster
Yeah, I understand on a right tilt saw, you want most, if not all of your fence to the left of the blade. On a left tilt, I never understood why the rails extend to the left of the blade. Ive never used a fence to the left of the blade so I was curious of your suggestion. The T2 fence in question though is only designed for a 30" rip to the right of the blade. I dunno how often Illl ever need 30" but Ill mount the fence to gain as much rip capacity as possible. Mounting any of the rail to the left of the blade is just wasted for me.
Seems 30" isn't much of an upgrade. I like the fact that my fence extends far enough to cut any amount out of a 4X8 sheet of plywood.

There are times when I have a device that may need cut and can only be done on the left side of the fence.

Al

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