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post #1 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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TS Setup Tools

As I mentioned in this thread (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...s-lowes-48617/), I am going to be accquiring a new R4512 in the next week or so (hopefully, still waiting on the IRS to put the tax refund in the bank). Being an engineer, I have a strong belief that setting things up properly is the best way to ensure quality products. This is the first TS I have purchased and I want to get it setup and dialed in properly from the get-go, knowing that doing so will make for better woodworking products and hopefully increase the useful life of the saw. I am looking to pick-up these following setup tools.

Digital Angle Gauge (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...gle-gauge.aspx) (to ensure the blade is perpendicular to the table, and to ensure proper bevel angles on future project)

Saw Gauge (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/202...saw-gauge.aspx) (to ensure that the blade and fence are parallel to the miter slots)

Am I missing anything for a good setup? Am I going overboard with the tools? I think they will come in handy for the life of the saw as I would use them any time I change the blade, and would probably do a once or twice a year check to make sure the fence is staying parallel to the miter slots.

Thanks,
Craig
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post #2 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 12:34 PM
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The angle gauge is cool for angles, but you don't really need it to check for square when you can just use a combo or speed square.

I just used a combo square for checking for parallel, although somebody posted a jig that used a caliper that looked more precise recently.
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post #3 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 12:39 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I would pass on the last item

You are referencing off the blade and a tooth, a relatively short distance in the horizontal. If you extend the plane of the blade by using a steel scale or bar held against it you can have a reference line that is up to 20" or so long to measure from.
The longer the line between 2 points the more accurate the measurement will be.
Also as an engineer it's been ingrained in you to be as accurate as possible, and while that's a good philosophy in metal working and drafting and machine design....often wood may move way more than that after a cutting or planing process.
You can't be more accurate than the least stable piece in the process. JMO.

Like this:
Use a blade plane extension by clamping an aluminum extrusion, steel scale or bar stock right to the blade and measuring at the far ends of it. The longer the reference plane is, the more accurate your measurement will be rather than just the width of the blade sticking out of the table ...about 8" at best. A 24" length will give you much better results!


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-20-2013 at 02:47 PM. Reason: wrong dimension given
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post #4 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigwbryant View Post
As I mentioned in this thread (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ho...s-lowes-48617/), I am going to be accquiring a new R4512 in the next week or so (hopefully, still waiting on the IRS to put the tax refund in the bank). Being an engineer, I have a strong belief that setting things up properly is the best way to ensure quality products. This is the first TS I have purchased and I want to get it setup and dialed in properly from the get-go, knowing that doing so will make for better woodworking products and hopefully increase the useful life of the saw. I am looking to pick-up these following setup tools.

Digital Angle Gauge (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...gle-gauge.aspx) (to ensure the blade is perpendicular to the table, and to ensure proper bevel angles on future project)

Saw Gauge (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/202...saw-gauge.aspx) (to ensure that the blade and fence are parallel to the miter slots)

Am I missing anything for a good setup? Am I going overboard with the tools?

not for the saw, but $120, for set up tools? get a $10 dial gauge from HF and attach it to your miter gauge, once you've removed all the slop from the runner. both my contractor saws were tuned this way and they are within .001" of perfect. put the $110 savings into more useful accessories.

I think they will come in handy for the life of the saw as I would use them any time I change the blade,

what on earth for? the 4512 shouldn't just "go out of alignment" all on it's own. and what needs to be realigned when the blade is changed, besides the fence cursor if there is a difference in the kerf of changed blades.

and would probably do a once or twice a year check to make sure the fence is staying parallel to the miter slots.

Thanks,
Craig
KISS has, so far, been working for me. and were you planning on bringing a HF "20% off any single item" coupon with you to get the saw for $400? better that $100 in your pocket than HD's. good luck.
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there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #5 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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I asked if our HD takes the HF coupon, they said no, unfortunately. Likely because the nearest HF is 45 miles away. I do get to make use of the military discount, so Ill get the saw for $450 + tax. I don't necessarily think the saw would magically go out of alignment, but I like to re-verify mechanical stuff periodically. Kind of like re-verifying the zero on your firearms, even thought it shouldn't have gone bad, not a bad idea to take it to the range and re-verify it every so often!
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post #6 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 08:17 PM
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agreed, but what's going to go out of alignment when a blade is changed?

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-20-2013, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolguy1000 View Post
agreed, but what's going to go out of alignment when a blade is changed?
Who knows? But what's easier, a couple minutes to check it and verify that all is well, or trying to figure out why your saw isn't cutting accurately. Call me OCD, I just like to check things anytime I make a change to a system.
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