Trying to upgrade scroll saw skills - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-02-2013, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Question Trying to upgrade scroll saw skills

I want to make the bow box shown in American Woodworker Aug/Sept 2012 so I have been watching many tutorial videos on you tube. The teachers spin the wood easily to change directions and make little loops to do sharp corners but when I try the blade seems to turn, which it doesn't seem to do on the videos, and I end up well off the pattern. I have tried speeds of 600, 900, and 1200 with 15 and 18.5 tooth blades.

I'm practicing on 3/4" pine but the real job will be 1/4" red oak sandwiched between two pieces of 1/4" walnut. I'm using an entry level Ryobi scroll saw.

I'm thinking the problem is with my technique but don't know what to change. Am I too afraid of the blade turn maybe?
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-03-2013, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rac4nd
I want to make the bow box shown in American Woodworker Aug/Sept 2012 so I have been watching many tutorial videos on you tube. The teachers spin the wood easily to change directions and make little loops to do sharp corners but when I try the blade seems to turn, which it doesn't seem to do on the videos, and I end up well off the pattern. I have tried speeds of 600, 900, and 1200 with 15 and 18.5 tooth blades.

I'm practicing on 3/4" pine but the real job will be 1/4" red oak sandwiched between two pieces of 1/4" walnut. I'm using an entry level Ryobi scroll saw.

I'm thinking the problem is with my technique but don't know what to change. Am I too afraid of the blade turn maybe?
The blade you're using may be too wide, or the tension isn't tight enough...... What size blade are you using ??
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-03-2013, 12:43 PM
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Check out the blades in the link. If you are not using this type of blade it is probably your problem. I started doing intarsia and was amazed at how thin they are. They are alot smaller than the blades I was familiar with. They put a strain on your eyes to see which way the teeth point.
Once you start using them you understand why they sell them by the gross.

http://mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-06-2013, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Question blade charts

the scroll blade charts I have indicate these very narrow blades are not appropriate for 3/4" stock. I'm using 18.5 TPI .070 wide .010 thick. Most others recommended for 3/4" stock are thicker, though some are not as wide.

Are the charts being too conservative?
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-06-2013, 10:34 PM
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Charts can be deceiving. Experience will tell you what blade to use and when to use it. Scroll saw blades come in generic numbers, such as #12, #9, #3 etc. For 3/4" pine, I would be using a #5 or a #7 reverse tooth blade. For the 1/4" stock, I would be looking at a #2 reverse tooth blade. The finer the blade, the tighter the radius of its curved cuts. If you are using a #12 blade on the 3/4" pine, you will not be able to get very tight curves. If your blade is twisting, you may have too little tension on the blade.
Check out this video on tight curves and you will see what I mean.

There is a very fine line between a "hobby" and a "mental illness"
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-07-2013, 08:01 AM
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That's a nice video Kenbo.

I use the smaller blades on 3/4 material. I have had to learn to slow down and let the saw do the work and feed material ever so slightly and sometimes let the saw catch up.

If your saw has adjustable speed try slowing it down. Also learn to adjust the tension on the blades. They should be tight enough to ping when plucked. When using thin blades they don't last too long. Change often.
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