Total Noob... What router bit do I use? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-19-2010, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Question Total Noob... What router bit do I use?

Please forgive my obvious lack of experience here, but I have a question about shortening some old pine cabinet doors. I had to shorten the cabinet above our refrigerator because the refrigerator was too tall. I cut the cabinet in place (not fun at all) and it turned ok, but I need to shorten the doors as well (cutting off bottom). Easy enough, but they have a radius and I know how to determine what size router bit to use. The doors are 3/4" plywood and it looks to be about a 3/8" radius bit was used. Have a look at these pics and let me know what you think. Also, I have an old 1/4" router and wouldn't mind a recommendation for brand/type of bit to use. Thanks!
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-19-2010, 07:59 PM
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It looks to me like a half inch round over set to with the bit set to cut in the middle. Only using half the bit to cut. I would use some scrape wood to test the setting and then cut.
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-19-2010, 08:17 PM
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Hi David - It might take some trial and error to get it exact, but you might find that close is "close enuff". It looks like the original didn't use the full height of the cutter. I pulled out my roundover set and compared 3/8" & 1/2" radius bits against a 3/4" board, and think that it's more likely the 1/2"...could even be 5/8" but I don't have one to compare....hard to tell from the pic anyway.

Holbren sells the Whiteside 1/2" roundover bit with 1/4" shank for ~ $26. That's a really nice bit from a fine supplier, but seems a little expensive for the application.

MLCS has a decent quality 1/2" roundover 1/4" shank for $15 shipped.

Amazon has a http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-23135-diameter-Cutting/dp/B000P3IMR0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1263946136&sr=1-9 bit for $9.67 with free shipping on orders of $25 or more. Can't vouch for the quality of this one....I'm sure it'd cut but they're not known for pushing the quality envelope much.
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-19-2010, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm... Sounds like maybe 1/2" might be a good starting point. As far as which brand goes, my local home supply store has a Bosch round over bit for around $30 and a set of several Skil bits for $17. My guess is the Skil set wouldn't last more than a few passes .
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-20-2010, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David D View Post
Hmmm... Sounds like maybe 1/2" might be a good starting point. As far as which brand goes, my local home supply store has a Bosch round over bit for around $30 and a set of several Skil bits for $17. My guess is the Skil set wouldn't last more than a few passes .
As long as the skil router bits are carbide tipped they should hold up reasonably well. For $30 [or less] you should be able to find a set of carbide tipped roundover bits. Unless you are planning to use the bits a lot there is not too much reason to spend a lot of money on high end bits.

Gerry
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-20-2010, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have a closer look at the bits at the store. Being that the doors are plywood, any recommendations for cutting them as cleanly as possible? I have a 12" radial arm saw and my best blade is a 80 tooth DeWalt fine crosscutting blade. I want to minimize any chipping and tear out.
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-20-2010, 02:59 PM
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There are a couple of things you can do to get a cleaner cut.

1. Make sure the blade is clean...spray it with 409 or Simple Green, etc., and hit it was a brass brush or stiff nylon brush

2. Score the cut before cutting through all the way.

3. Put blue painters tape on the exit side of the cut

4. Move the blade slowly, but not slowly enough to allow burning
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-20-2010, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by knotscott View Post
There are a couple of things you can do to get a cleaner cut.

1. Make sure the blade is clean...spray it with 409 or Simple Green, etc., and hit it was a brass brush or stiff nylon brush

2. Score the cut before cutting through all the way.

3. Put blue painters tape on the exit side of the cut

4. Move the blade slowly, but not slowly enough to allow burning

Thank you for the suggestions! I was actually wondering about using tape... These are 1956 vintage pine cabinets and hopefully will be replaced someday with cabinets built by yours truly . It's good experience for me working on these as I won't be heartbroken if something doesn't go just right. Wood filler can cure a multitude of mistakes!

Last edited by David D; 01-20-2010 at 11:44 PM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-20-2010, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Wood filler can cure a multitude of mistakes!
Where do I get the instructions for this???


:shocked:
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-21-2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by David D View Post
I need to shorten the doors as well (cutting off bottom).
Have you considered cutting off the top instead?

(I know it could mean you have to move the hinges -- but the door handle could stay where it is.)

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post #11 of 13 Old 01-21-2010, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Have you considered cutting off the top instead?

(I know it could mean you have to move the hinges -- but the door handle could stay where it is.)
I prefer to cut the bottom as it's the least disruptive. The top edge is rabbeted to fit the face frame and the top hinges can stay that way too. They will be painted eventually anyway, so holes aren't a problem. It's just a little less work this way.

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post #12 of 13 Old 01-21-2010, 07:43 PM
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I prefer to cut the bottom as it's the least disruptive. The top edge is rabbeted to fit the face frame and the top hinges can stay that way too. They will be painted eventually anyway, so holes aren't a problem. It's just a little less work this way.
Fair enough

(I only suggested it because I doubt anyone would be able to see if there are slight imperfections at the top of the door)

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post #13 of 13 Old 01-21-2010, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by duncsuss View Post
Fair enough

(I only suggested it because I doubt anyone would be able to see if there are slight imperfections at the top of the door)
Good point! The good news is that the cabinet is above a cabinet depth fridge which is over six feet tall. It'll be difficult for anyone to see the bottom of the doors without looking real close. Of course, I will know all the imperfections whether they be on the top or the bottom

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