Sorry but IMNSHO there is no single "Perfect" sharpening system.
The tool sharpening process is similar to sanding any project. The coarser grits are used to SHAPE the project and the finer grits are used to remove the scratches left by the previous coarser grit of sand paper.
For lack of better words, when you are sharpening, first you shape then you polish.
For chisels and similar tools you must first flatten and smooth the back of the tool. Why? Just take a corrugated cardboard box and cut it across the corrugations. What you see in the cut is what your tool looks like. (The corrugations represent the tool manufacturers scratch marks rom the grinding process.) The finer that you can make the "corrugations" or scratch marks, the sharper the final result of your sharpening efforts. For the flattening process I'll use a scary sharp process with paper glued to glass. Starting at 120 grit up to 600 grit and then on to the water stones. You only have to do this once for the tool and only about an inch up the back.
Typically I will flatten and polish the backs of my tools to 6000 or 8000 grit on a water stone.
When you sharpen you want the scratch marks to be perpendicular to the cutting edge. Why? When you have a scratch that follows the cutting edge of a tool, the tool is weak between the scratch and the keen edge.
The general procedure after flattening the back is to shape the bevel to the angle that is best for the tool. If you don't know the desired angle, get one of those stainless steel protractors and measure from the back to the bevel. Measure similar tools in a sharp condition. Getting the correct angle is usually done with a coarser stone. On a Tormek (my preference) this is done with a clean wheel and their angle gauge. (About 180 grit.) Then the wheel is "graded" and a finer grinding is done. What the "grading" does to the wheel is to close off the coarseness of the wheel. This is done with the fine side of the Tormek grading stone. (About 400 grit.) The results are a nice hollow ground bevel.
Hollow ground is probably better than adding a micro bevel. Hollow grinding makes the next steps easier and the tool seems to stay sharp longer.
Tormek suggests going on to hone the tool on the leather wheel and honing compound. At this point it is not my preference. I prefer to go to the water stones up to about 6000 or 8000 grit.
I usually drag the tool across the water stone for three passes with the keen edge trailing and a single short forward pass to remove the wire edge. Many people say that the results look like a micro bevel but it is not. An obvious sharpening is on the keen edge AND the top of the bevel. These two "polished" areas only indicate that the tool was dragged on those points to sharpen the edge. If it were a micro bevel there would only be a single polished area at the edge.
As I use the tool I will go back to the Tormek leather wheel and hone the edge. This keeps the tool very sharp. I've found that the tool can be honed 10 or 12 times before another pass on the wet stones is needed. Usually the tool can go back to the wet stones 10 to 15 times before another Tormek process is needed. When the two polished areas meet on the bevel after the wet stones, it is time to go back to the Tormek grinding process.
This is blasphemy to some, stupidity to others but it works for me. I have no complaint with your sharpening methods it's just that the above works for me.
OK, now I'm standing here to catch spears.
EVERYBODY has their own favorite sharpening method which works for you. My method may be different. YMMV
As for brands of chisels??? When sharpened appropriately I get good results from Harbor Freight chisels, very good results from Marples (Now Irwin) and very good results from Buck Brothers chisels. I've used but not sharpened the Japanese style of bi-metal chisels. (IMHO the Japanese chisels are good but not good enough to spend 8 or 10 times the cost of other chisels.)