Tips for painting numerous small pieces of wood - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Tips for painting numerous small pieces of wood

I will be painting numerous small pieces of wood. They will be as small as 1cm cubes. Hundreds of them.
Any tips on the best way to go about this?

Thanks

Jen
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 07:19 AM
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A little more information would be good. Do you have spray ability? What kind of paint? Does it matter if some sides get multiple coats and other sides less.

Are you willing to individually turn each piece of wood. Information always helps.

George
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 07:37 AM
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That small I believe I could coat a sheet of cardboard or masonite with spray adhesive and stick the blocks to it and then spray them. Once dry remove them and apply another coat of spray adhesive and turn the blocks over to spray the other side.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
A little more information would be good. Do you have spray ability? What kind of paint? Does it matter if some sides get multiple coats and other sides less.

Are you willing to individually turn each piece of wood. Information always helps.

George
I do not have a spray gun, although maybe it would be worth getting one? Ok to get a cheap one at Harbor Freight?

I am not sure what kind of paint to use. I have thought of cans of spray paint Ö. but I will be using 9 different colors. My last project I used 9 or so different colors and found the different colors meant different finishes. Two of the colors gave me such a hard time re drying, cracking etc. (my husband who is a painter thought it was a moisture issue Ö but every time I used those two specific colors they gave me a hard time).
I am not thrilled with the idea of using canned spray paint, but if a gun would be better might consider that.

I have thought of simply using a brush or sponge and doing each by hand.

I considered sticking the pieces on adhesive then painting.
Last time I used a piece of contact paper but it moved around, bubbled up etc.
I like the idea of spraying cardboard or masonite. Thanks for that tip.

The pieces will be cubes, squares and prisms. I would like for all sides to be as uniform as possible.
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 10:11 AM
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how about stain? put them into a colander, and dip them into a jug of stain. drain, pour out onto some newspaper for 10min, then "dry" them with a disposable towel.

As I assume these may be those little geometric cubes, paint may distort their dimensions if not applied evenly (or even if it is). if its stuck to a surface and you spray, I would surely expect the paint to pool at the bottom, when you pull them off you'll have a hell of alot of sanding to do.
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 10:28 AM
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The type paint would depend on the desired appearance and application. Rattle can paint is pretty thin to use on wood. It would work but take a bunch of coats. As far as a sprayer, if you have a compressor I use a Harbor Freight #97855 and it works well with most paints. On large areas a cup gun doesn't do well with latex paint. It would be better to use a pressure pot sprayer. A production lacquer would be the quickest and easiest finish you could use but it's not water resistant. Probably the most versatile and durable finish you could use would be a oil based enamel. It dries so slow though you would have to allow it to dry for several days before turning it over and paint the other side.

More than likely the problem you have had with paint cracking is applying successive coats before your initial coat is dry. What happens is the paint shrinks as it dries and if you apply another coat before the first coat dries when it shrinks it causes the topcoat to crack. Rather than putting a bunch of coats of your finish coat on to get it to cover the wood it would be better to prime the wood first. Primers have more solids which build faster. You can also tint a lot of primers to get them close to the topcoat color so it's easier to cover.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 11:38 AM
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Have you thought about an HVLP spray system. High Volume, Low Pressure system. Do you have an air compressor? This may be a solution.

From Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/High-Volume-Pr...7500_5,,gavity fed.

or this one from eBay.: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Professi...-/400808593925

By buying different vessels for the paint you use, you only have to clean the gun before attaching another vessel to it.

I don't have, nor have I used one. Just trying to help out with your situation.
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 02:30 PM
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I think bauerbach has the right idea with the colander thing, but I'd suggest one change, going with a dye over a stain. That way, you can get more color options and you don't have to worry about drying off the excess.

Painting small parts is a pain no matter what. Doesn't matter if you spray or brush or whatnot, it still takes a ton of time and almost never ends well

I need cheaper hobby
etsy.com/shop/projectepicfail
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 03:00 PM
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To hold small parts I have pushed straight pins through some corrugated cardboard. A square would be pushed on to the pin point at one of the corners, painted, then turned over to the opposite corner when dry and the other half painted.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-26-2014, 06:36 PM
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An air brush would do the trick--and could be powered by one of your husbands smaller compressors--they are able to apply a very thin coat---with great control--

straight pins driven into a board--then clip off the heads---tedious--but effective stands to get the tiny wood shapes off of the table---
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-28-2014, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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I love the idea of staining or dying and will try that next time.
My first batch of pieces (about 250) are already stained and I need to paint over them.
I tried several pieces. First applying gesso then acrylic gloss. So far not fun!
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