Time for Saw Blade debate again :) - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Time for Saw Blade debate again :)

I finally got a chance to use my Freud LM75R010 10-Inch by 30t TCG 5/8-Inch Arbor Glue Line Rip Saw Blade. I know we have debated whether specialized blades are needed or not.

First off...I do not have a jointer. Well, I am no expert but this was the best glue up I have done without having to do any major sanding. I did 2 passes with 80 grit with an orbital sander over where the wood meets. I put mineral spirits on so highlite any flaws.

You guys tell me what you think...I think the blade works great. Wood is 4/4 cherry planed to 3/4.

Does anyone else use a glueline blade or just a regular rip blade?

BTW: Any advice on gue up set up? I think I should have used another set of cauls in the middle.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:20 PM
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I have both the glue line rip and the standard rip blade from Freud both in thin kerf. Freud only recommends the glue line up to 1 inch thick if I recall. The glue line rip does provide a cleaner cut in 5/4 and below which is most of what I do, however it wasn't as clean and seems to have a tendency to burn quicker in thick stock like when I'm ripping 10/4 stock for legs. The regular rip does a better job there, but isn't quite as clean of a surface.

Just my observations from using both. I will continue to keep both for separate uses.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:22 PM
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Personally I don't care for a sawn joint whether you use a glue line blade or not. I feel like the texture of the saw cut holds the wood apart more which lessens the strength of the joint. Since you don't have a jointer though it's best you use the glue line blade.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:23 PM
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Why does there need to be debate? It worked good for you and why should anyone argue that?

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post #5 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:50 PM
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Steve....just last night I was running rift sawn red oak first through the jointer and then through the glue line rip blade to get my face frame material cut down. There was no distinguishable difference between the two edges....this is not the case when I've run with a combo or plywood blade.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:56 PM
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I've run a glue line blade before and unless they have improved them a lot in the last ten years I can tell a difference. My jointer though I have all three knives set so close the boards look like they were edged with a hand plane.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 04:58 PM
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I can't tell you if blades have changed a lot in the past ten years....just what my experience with current blades has been.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
Why does there need to be debate? It worked good for you and why should anyone argue that?

George
The title was suppose to have some humor in it.....did you not notice the smiley face? (can't do emoticoms in the titel of thread)

In another thread I started about a reiveiw on a new fence you replied with
Quote:
Is there a question here? Or what is the purpose of the post?
Guess my threads do not meet your standard for this forum.....

Ever wonder why folks left here George? Even me for awhile. It was because of dismmisive, combative, or useless posts from folks I was hoping would be able to give words of advice.

Thanks agian from your pearls of wisdom. If you noticed in the thread I asked a few questions. One was if the glue up setup I had was good. You could have spread your wisdom with help with that question
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 05:51 PM
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I didn't think you had to request a debate about what is best around here.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #10 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Steve and Ryan for your posts.
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't think you had to request a debate about what is best around here.
Now that is funny
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 05:58 PM
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Thanks Steve and Ryan for your posts.

No problem. I'm considering starting a thread titled best tablesaw, blade router and woodworking tools brand. I figure it could be the fastest closed thread since Ted posted...

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-19-2015, 06:05 PM
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I have a Freud thin kerf rip, and a Freud glue line rip. I have a jointer, and I make a lot of cutting boards. If you want to run a board that is 1 1/4 by 7/8 by 20 inches across a jointer go for it, but I won't. The glue line does a lot better than the rip blade.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-20-2015, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
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No problem. I'm considering starting a thread titled best tablesaw, blade router and woodworking tools brand. I figure it could be the fastest closed thread since Ted posted...
Removed disrespectful comments.

As to the question/story at hand, glad the glue line rip blade worked out meng. Ive kicked around the idea of getting one, but my combo blade leaves such a smooth surface ive never felt the need to switch. Heck, I usually don't feel the need to fire up the jointer, but that could be because my jointer is a piece of crap.

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Last edited by Steve Neul; 01-20-2015 at 07:20 AM.
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-20-2015, 08:02 AM
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glue line rip blades definitley leave a nice clean cut, few will argue that point.

however, when edge gluing boards, there are other factors that come in to play than just the cut surface. the edge needs to be true and square along the length of each board so the joint is tight, and the gaps don't need to be pulled together by clamps. hard to do with just a table saw, this is the benefit of a jointer.

without a jointer, you did great.
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post #16 of 17 Old 01-20-2015, 09:19 AM
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^ not entirely true

While there is no substitute for a properly setup "long bed" jointer, not everyone has one, but they will probably have a table saw. I have straight lined ripped hundred of boards using a simple shop built jig to get a straight and square edge on the cutoff side. I then rotate the board 180 degrees and use the new straight edge against the fence to make a board with parallel edges:

Straight Line Rip Jig


You can straight line all the boards first then rotate them, either way it works quite well.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-20-2015, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epicfail48 View Post
Removed disrespectful comments.

As to the question/story at hand, glad the glue line rip blade worked out meng. Ive kicked around the idea of getting one, but my combo blade leaves such a smooth surface ive never felt the need to switch. Heck, I usually don't feel the need to fire up the jointer, but that could be because my jointer is a piece of crap.
I had a Forrest combo blade. It left the wood as good maybe better than my Freud glue line rip. The Forrest got dull, and I haven't had it sharpened.
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