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post #1 of 24 Old 06-20-2015, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Through Dovetails.

I'm having trouble with dovetails. They do not sleep together. If I may what am I doing wrong? Might it be my bits are to close in size. It's the same situation when I'm using a hardwood or softwood. I have to hit the wood together with a mallet. They will not close completely and it makes it even harder when I put the glue in. Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
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post #2 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 12:33 AM
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We need more information to help you out. If you are using a jig, what kind is it? Pictures would help out also.

Fill your heart with compassion, seek the jewel in every soul, share a word of kindness, and remember; the people's what it's about.
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post #3 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 09:31 AM
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It's obvious your joints are too tight - but like Paarker states, we need more info and a picture of the dry joint may help. Are you making them with a router and jig, table saw, hand saw...?

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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post #4 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 10:07 AM
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Dovetails

Anguspapa
You don't have your set-up adjusted correctly.
The tightness of the dovetail is all controlled by your adjustments.
You have two main adjustments.
1. The depth of the bit on your router
2. The depth of the cut on your boards.
I suggest you practice on scrap making small adjustments of 1/16" until you get the fit you need.
My initial guess it is in the depth of your bit. Raise the bit depth by 1/16" and see if that improves your fit.
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post #5 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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This is the jig I own. There's an adjustment on the side that is used as a guide for the bit depth. If my joints are to tight do I need to lower my bit cutting into the wood? Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
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post #6 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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That's before being glued and hit together with a mallet!

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
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post #7 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anguspapa View Post
Attachment 168714

This is the jig I own. There's an adjustment on the side that is used as a guide for the bit depth. If my joints are to tight do I need to lower my bit cutting into the wood? Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
I'm suggesting that you start by moving the bit in your router before you make any further adjustments to your template.
If you raise the bit, it will cut the opening larger. If you lower the bit, it will cut smaller. Move the bit in small increments. Start by raising the bit 1/16" and compare the fit to what you presently have. You should see a difference. Let us know what this does for you. Make your test on scrap.
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post #8 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Through Dovetails.-image-920291693.jpg

I have moved the guide towards the jig, hopefully that will loosen up my dovetails. Also looking at the pin depth, guide what's a good starting point for that? Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa

Last edited by Anguspapa; 06-21-2015 at 09:28 PM.
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post #9 of 24 Old 06-21-2015, 11:51 PM
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Toolman is answering your question - but he's making the adjustment as the router is sitting on the bench - upside down. Judging from the photo of your assembled joint - that is part of your problem. Both pins and tails should protrude the finished joint just a tad. I shave the excess off with a sharp chisel.

As for the depth adjustment of the jig stop - that may also be an issue. But as suggested - use a practice piece the same dimensions of your work. But try the 1st option...

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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post #10 of 24 Old 06-22-2015, 07:01 AM
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I have the same Porter Cable jig. The manual gives specific instructions on how to adjust the jig to solve the specific problem you are writing about. If you do not have the manual I believe it can be down loaded.

George
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post #11 of 24 Old 06-22-2015, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieL
Toolman is answering your question - but he's making the adjustment as the router is sitting on the bench - upside down. Judging from the photo of your assembled joint - that is part of your problem. Both pins and tails should protrude the finished joint just a tad. I shave the excess off with a sharp chisel. As for the depth adjustment of the jig stop - that may also be an issue. But as suggested - use a practice piece the same dimensions of your work. But try the 1st option...
I also have to literally beat the wood together. When I watch videos it just slips together. Is that adjustment of the router itself. I get the impression that if I raise the bit up into the router, the joint will be looser?

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
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post #12 of 24 Old 06-22-2015, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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I have the same Porter Cable jig. The manual gives specific instructions on how to adjust the jig to solve the specific problem you are writing about. If you do not have the manual I believe it can be down loaded. George
If I may ask, the pen that I took a picture, of how far off the top of the body of the frame is yours? Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-22-2015, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Anguspapa View Post
I also have to literally beat the wood together. When I watch videos it just slips together. Is that adjustment of the router itself. I get the impression that if I raise the bit up into the router, the joint will be looser?

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
Eric
Have you tried raising your router bit?
To raise the bit, you make it shorter by moving it backwards up towards the router motor.
Jim
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post #14 of 24 Old 06-23-2015, 09:18 AM
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I honestly believe your problem is with the jig set-up. If you slide the stop back, it makes your joint looser. Sliding forward makes them tighter. I'm not talking about the template. I'm talking about the far left fence in your photo, the one that shows one knob sticking up.

Adjusting the height of your router bit will allow the pins to stick out just a tad above the finished joint. You want that setting so you can shave them to a smooth finished joint. Prior to making the cuts, take one of the boards and stand it on edge. use its' thickness to score a line on the face and end of the board you are preparing to cut. Once it's in the jig, set your router bit so it just passes that scored line.

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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post #15 of 24 Old 06-23-2015, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anguspapa View Post
If I may ask, the pen that I took a picture, of how far off the top of the body of the frame is yours? Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
I am not in a position to get to it right now. I will try to look tomorrow.

George
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post #16 of 24 Old 06-23-2015, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Till I master my Dove Tails, thanks for your help, everyone. The box I took a picture of, is ginny pig. I will be building a memorabilia box for my cousin. 25 years United States Air Force, Colonel. The box will be Maple and Oak, approximately, 25"x19"x12".

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
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post #17 of 24 Old 06-23-2015, 11:40 PM
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This is a great site with lots of help at OUR finger tips. Keep us posted till your cousin gets his memorabilia box and thank him for his service on behalf of all of us at WWT.

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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post #18 of 24 Old 06-24-2015, 07:00 AM
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If I may ask, the pen that I took a picture, of how far off the top of the body of the frame is yours? Thanks

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa
I do not have that plate mounted. I have the 1/2 blind plate mounted.

To give you a meaningful answer I would have to mount the through dovetail plate and make a run to be sure I had all of the settings correct.

Sorry not to be helpful.

George
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post #19 of 24 Old 06-24-2015, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
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I have the same Porter Cable jig. The manual gives specific instructions on how to adjust the jig to solve the specific problem you are writing about. If you do not have the manual I believe it can be down loaded.

George
some friendly advice.... I realize that you are looking for some quick and easy help, we all do. I agree with George, that your manual is the go-to reference. if you figure it out yourself, take notes, keep samples, etc. it will be much easier next time you set up. asking here is good, but I recommend you check the manual too. good luck.

also, in last pic, it looks like your template is not sitting flat to the jig. may just be loose for pic....

if you don't have a manual, this is one piece of equipment that you really need one. I refer to mine every time I get the jig out.
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post #20 of 24 Old 06-29-2015, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Through Dovetails.-image-2209473029.jpg
Through Dovetails.-image-476944554.jpg
Well sanded it down with the belt sander. Next I start the true box! Buy the nice wood, the cheap wood and adjust the jig. I have a feeling that's going to take some time. The instructions, that came with the jig and the PDF from the website, are very vague. Thanks, everyone for your time and help.

Thanks, Eric A.KA. Anguspapa

Last edited by Anguspapa; 06-29-2015 at 09:14 PM.
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