These little issues - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 03-11-2018, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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These little issues

So I glued this plywood portion of this cabinet together awhile back now and the bottom wasn't quite square so I had a genius idea last night..I'll wedge that sucker over a bit, about a 16th" ..

And it works! The thin wooden strip at the top is exactly the right size for the other side (front in this case), but I had to wedge it into place for the back. The two pieces clamped there are just for measurements and the two ends are perfect.. I thought that overnight the dado joint may pop lose, but it hasn't so I'm thinking that the piece wedged into place ought to stay there.. Anyone see anything wrong with this?

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-18-2018, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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It's beginning to take shape. I abandoned the idea of the rounded base and instead it'll have a lower shelf beneath the rows of drawers and a wide drawer under it..

On top will be either 2 or 3 additional shelves to store her cups and tea pot(s)
I've probably made 80 different drawings of different ideas.
The base is white oak (I think..might be red..I forget) and the upper section clad in Tzalam (Caribbean Walnut) and I might add a bit of ash accent pieces..
I decided to make the base come out from the wall further for a few reasons, stability and I just like the idea of the look. If I had it to do over I'd probably have made the base from Tzalam as well, but I used what I have available which is some oak and some tzalam and maybe some ash.. At least it ain't gonna tip over when my old dad comes stumbling through the dining room..
I figure I'll be my dad's age when I'm done with it just because he loves telling me, 'Wait till you get to be my age.' Lol

The wedge piece is still holding tight so I think it's safe..
Kerrys and Tool Agnostic like this.

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?

Last edited by allpurpose; 03-18-2018 at 06:51 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 03-19-2018, 09:28 AM
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Very nice. I like the double tapered legs.
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-20-2018, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I've reached the point where I need some help in figuring out how to correct a problem.. My design flaws are becoming more obvious as time goes by.
Anyway the plywood carcass is about 3/32" too narrow for the base,
but that'll be covered with the side of the shelf. The main problem I'm running into is fastening the plywood carcass to the base and keeping it plumb and square with the base.
Also the back probably needs a notch so the carcass can be flush with the back of the base minus about 1/4" for the back panel..

I clamped the small support blocks

just to find the right mark for aligning things, but once I relieve the pressure.. I had a wedge between the front shelf and the front of the carcass, but once I remove the wedge the carcass wants to tip forward just a smudge..
So the question I suppose is how should I go about connecting the two and keeping them square and solid enough to not work their way loose on down the road?
I've thought about narrower support pieces glued and screwed to the inside of the top of the base, some narrow shims to take up the slack of the 3/32" gap then screwing the remaining portion of the bottom of the plywood to the inside of the top of the base, but I still have the problem of making sure the supports don't allow things to tip forward or even backwards.. Part of the problem is the weight of the plywood part makes it tough to reach under things to drive in the screws so I'm thinking perhaps a pivot screw in the back, shims and then the front screws? Any brilliant ideas and suggestions for this dilemma?
I've thought about completely remaking the plywood portion to fit properly, but it's becoming too expensive as it goes by. I don't want to have $800 invested in one single tea and cup cabinet just for the sake of being "perfect".. I'm finally coming to the realization it ain't gonna be perfect. I'm finally getting comfortable with just really nice.. lol

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-20-2018, 12:21 PM
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I donít see your 3/32Ē gap as a problem.
I like your idea of attaching inside supports on each side. Instead of small blocks, I would use a full side strip screwed, not glued to the bottom sides of the stand.
Set the upper section inside the frame to rest on the new inner sports.
Cut new trim mold to cover the gap. I think it will look fine.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-20-2018, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolman50 View Post
I don’t see your 3/32” gap as a problem.
I like your idea of attaching inside supports on each side. Instead of small blocks, I would use a full side strip screwed, not glued to the bottom sides of the stand.
Set the upper section inside the frame to rest on the new inner sports.
Cut new trim mold to cover the gap. I think it will look fine.
I was thinking strips instead of blocks.. I just didn't word it right.. I'm thinking shims for the gap so that the pressure from screws or whatever fastener used doesn't draw the parts out of square ..
Because the plywood carcass was never completely square from day one still leaves a problem I need to overcome without it sticking out like a sore thumb. I can live with it being off slightly. I just don't want it to stick out to the casual observer thinking 'HOLY CRAP! That's a 83.5į angle!'
Right now it's around 89.something or another..

According to my handy dandy Wixey it's 89.9 on one side 88.7-8 on the other.. I can live with that..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?

Last edited by allpurpose; 03-20-2018 at 01:38 PM.
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