Is there an easy way to cut seat of rafter birds mouth? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Is there an easy way to cut seat of rafter birds mouth?

I already cut the heals of the birds mouth with my Circular Saw, but I donít know how to make the seat cut with my saw because of the angle. Iím thinking I might have to chisel them out because the boards are too long to use my band saw. I have a Reciprocating Saw, but would like to cut them all at the same time and want them precise.
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 03:28 PM
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It don't take much with a wide chisel and a hammer....
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post #3 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 03:36 PM
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One at a time, laying on the wide side, with a jigsaw?

I actually skipped the birdsmouth by just building trusses for my shed roof. Then I gained overheard storage too.

I assume these are 2x6 rafters, so that you're leaving enough wood above the plates?
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post #4 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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One at a time, laying on the wide side, with a jigsaw?

I actually skipped the birdsmouth by just building trusses for my shed roof. Then I gained overheard storage too.

I assume these are 2x6 rafters, so that you're leaving enough wood above the plates?
I started with a jig saw, but i didn't have any blades long enough. It's a 2/10 pitch so it looks OK for a 2x4 rafter.

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post #5 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 04:09 PM
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You can get a Bigfoot saw and their swing table which will go over to 75*.
http://www.bigfootsaws.com/bigfootproduct/swing-tables/


that'll get most of that seat cut, then finish with sabre saw.
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post #6 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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It don't take much with a wide chisel and a hammer....
I'm probably going to get it started with a wide chisel and finish it with a hand saw

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post #7 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFromSD View Post
You can get a Bigfoot saw and their swing table which will go over to 75*.
http://www.bigfootsaws.com/bigfootproduct/swing-tables/


that'll get most of that seat cut, then finish with sabre saw.
😲

Last edited by sanchez; 05-08-2020 at 05:08 PM.
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post #8 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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You can get a Bigfoot saw and their swing table which will go over to 75*.
http://www.bigfootsaws.com/bigfootproduct/swing-tables/


that'll get most of that seat cut, then finish with sabre saw.
WOW! that's interesting. Can't say as if I've ever heard of such a thing.

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post #9 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 05:50 PM
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post #10 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 05:54 PM
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It gets cut with a circular saw from both sides and then the intersecting cut usually gets finished with a hand saw, that takes seconds to finish or you could use a sawzall or jig saw, it’s really simple!

Pay attention to the building code that states that the birds mouth vertical cut cannot exceed 1/3 of the vertical height above the plate. There is a great web site for all of these calculations or you can easily layout rafters with a 2 foot framing square.

It’s not real woodworking so I’m not a “Newbie” when it comes to framing!
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Last edited by SWrick; 05-08-2020 at 06:00 PM.
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post #11 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 06:21 PM
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😲 is the code for an emoticon with a "shocked" face.
sometimes the code is corrupt and does not show the face.

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.
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there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks.
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post #12 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWrick View Post
It gets cut with a circular saw from both sides and then the intersecting cut usually gets finished with a hand saw, that takes seconds to finish or you could use a sawzall or jig saw, itís really simple!

Pay attention to the building code that states that the birds mouth vertical cut cannot exceed 1/3 of the vertical height above the plate. There is a great web site for all of these calculations or you can easily layout rafters with a 2 foot framing square.

Itís not real woodworking so Iím not a ďNewbieĒ when it comes to framing!
Says who.
Carpentry IS real wood working. It's just not fine wood working.
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post #13 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 06:45 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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How good are you with a worm drive Skilsaw?

This video is for folks with more than basic experience using a worm drive Skilsaw. At 2:00 in he shows how to cut rafters with bird's mouths:




Notice:
When you stack them and even the ends up, the cut at full depth goes a bit into the board underneath saving you measuring it each as shown above.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 05-08-2020 at 08:18 PM.
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post #14 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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I quit wasteing time and got here done.

Well I realized that it was taking more time than if did what I always did. So I cut each side of the rafter and used a chisel to clean up the center. Just wondered if there was an easier way.
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post #15 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
This video is for folks with more than basic experience using a worm drive Skilsaw. At 2:00 in he shows how to cut rafters with bird's mouths:


Skil Saw Pro Tips - YouTube


Notice:
When you stack them and even the ends up, the cut at full depth goes a bit into the board underneath saving you measuring it each as shown above.
You only measure once, verify it fits correctly and then that rafter becomes your template!
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post #16 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 08:25 PM
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I'm a retired carpenter. One year all I did was cut rafters in a Quonset hut. I used a worm drive 6" Skilsaw and a Bosch saber saw to finish the cut. This is not a difficult job, their are many ways to accomplish the same thing. I once watched a home owner rough cut the birds mouth with a Sawzall, the clamp a template to the rafter and used a 3 HP PC router with a top bearing to clean up the cut. He still had to saw or chisel the corner because the router bit left it round.
My wife and I were sitting on a relatives porch and I remarked that his way of cutting the birdsmouth was labor intensive but in the end he did nice work.
Any method that accomplishes the task is the best way.
mike
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post #17 of 24 Old 05-08-2020, 08:28 PM
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Sanchez, what's with the &#x1f632;?
It's a shocked face about that saw! I see your confusion now. I switched to desktop view, and the face turns into a bunch of text. Sorry, mobile view shows them.

Last edited by sanchez; 05-08-2020 at 08:32 PM.
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post #18 of 24 Old 05-09-2020, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
I quit wasteing time and got here done.
i was going to suggest the same thing

since the rafter tail isn't structural, most framers over cut one side a little and handsaw or sawzall the rest
i'm showing my age... i doubt there's a handsaw on any jobsite anymore
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post #19 of 24 Old 05-09-2020, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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i'm showing my age... i doubt there's a handsaw on any jobsite anymore
I have a nice collection of handsaws from my Dad just can't sharpen them. I'm retired now, but I always carried a hand saw with me when I was working.

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post #20 of 24 Old 05-09-2020, 01:22 PM
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i'm showing my age... i doubt there's a handsaw on any jobsite anymore

I've got a handsaw, and the tools to set/sharpen it. When a handsaw is properly sharpened it'll go through a 2x4 faster than walking to the shed to get the power saw. I think the demise of the hand saw was because the skill of sharpening it got lost, particularly with homeowners.


If anyone is interested search eBay for "saw set pliers" there's a bunch of vintage ones for less than $20. You put the saw in the vise, quickly run down the teeth with the pliers to set them then run down the teeth with the file and you get a nice sharp saw. First time on a flea market saw may take 20-30 minutes, after that 5 minutes. The old carpenter I learned from told me he sharpened his saw every morning and every lunch and sometimes during his mid morning or mid afternoon break. He also told me you had to show how sharp you could get your saw during the job interview and if the boss caught you with a dull saw too many times you were fired.
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