So far I haven't even tried, but I'm making the assumtion that this ain't going to go in as easy as it might seem. I have to trim the post obviously and drill a dowel hole in the end of it and into the post, but after that there will be a couple of spindles in between going up/down. That brings in what appears to me to be the tough part, bringing it all together, the spindles and the two opposing dowels that'll be 90° (hopefully ) to make one nice, happy piece. I can't pound on the rounded corner from either angle too easy. Any ideas or suggestions?
Watch some videos on building Windsor chairs .....
They just don't look like they will ever go together, but somehow they mange it. The only rule I know is that the mating joints, no matter how many, all need to be parallel in order to assemble them. If one is a bit angled, it won't work. Kinda like ballusters on a stair way fitting into the handrail.
I had to put some balusters in between some stairs and a bulkhead above. I made the spindle work like the pins for a watch strap. I drilled the dowel holes deep enough so the dowels could be pressed in far enough to be flush with the end of the spindle. With the dowels retracted, I inserted the spindle into the space. Once lined up with the holes, the dowels sprung out to engage the holes in the stair and the bulkhead above. I don't remember, but I think I used a piece of foam inside the hole to act as the spring. I made the fit a bit sloppy so the dowel could move easily and only used a tinch of glue.
Sorry, I can't understand exactly how it all goes together, but, if you are asking how to tap or clamp onto the big curve under your wrist, then simply clamp some wood scraps onto the sides of the curve to give you something to tap on or put a clamp on. Otherwise, as John suggests, please show us how it goes together. Some sketches might also help.
There is a sequence to assembling the slats and arms and back pieces so they will all allow you to get them assembled. You can't assemble to different directions at the same time, say horizontal dowel and vertical dowels. I found that out when I took these chairs totally apart to sand them and redrill and redowel the broken ones: https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/what-chairs-these-39917/
Sorry..I WAYYY overestimated how difficult this was going to be.. It went together like zip zap zowie.. Next big problem..how to trip over an extension cord and break my neck without damaging the concrete floor....lol
It's almost there. I still have to finish adjustments in seat placement and sanding all the cracks, holes and peeling bits of old paint. It'll get a final coat later today unless it rains . I'm probably going to just leave it as white, sandable primer. (I won't use anything but sandable primer.. Years of auto body work taught me that..Killz original interior) If whoever buys it wants me to paint it some other color that's fine, but it'll cost them and it ain't going on with a brush. I'll probably lose money on it, but oh well. It's been quite a learning experience.
If someone else wants to take it apart some day it's their problem figuring out where the screws and fasteners are.. They're all covered except for the bottom of the seat..
I won't mention just how many times I was tempted to make firewood from the whole thing..It's probably the paint that kept me from it. LOL
The seat is yellow pine from some 2x12 sliced and diced. The stain is white vinegar and steel wool finished with first BLO then some paste wax. The vinegar and steel wool has become my favorite go-to stain. I might even experiment a bit, make a large batch and perhaps try to store it in a large glass jar. It doesn't really have to be covered as it will form a skin on top to seal it from too much evaporation as long as it's used in a reasonable time frame. In fact, don't cover it at all the first couple of days or all you'll get it some murky looking vinegar. It has to get plenty of oxygen when the steel wool is dissolving in the vinegar. This particular batch sat out for about a month and I just stirred the skin down into the liquid with no problems..I'm not sure how much sawdust actually settled on the surface to aid in the skin forming..
Hmmm..left side is angled too far outward, right side the other way around. Here's what I'm thinking as a solution till I get the screws in the bottom of the seat..
Clamp the 90° to the underside long enough to pull the other side back in to get screws in.. ? Think it'll work? Maybe through the magic of the internet I can do this while you all wait for the results!
Well that was a long wait, huh? The answer...not without cutting about 3/8" off the seat and redoing the finish.. In a word.. #$%&!*@¿!
(Sanitized for your protection)
Do you have any idea how many times I measured this and it was supposed to fit just perfect? It lied to me.
It is and thanks..just tell all my potential customers the same thing. I need to get it out of here.. My nap worked!
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