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post #1 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Tablesaw Outfeed

Hey all,

I am finally going to attempt building an outfeed table for my Ridgid 3650 TS. Actually this is part of a larger project to build an entire mobile TS workstation with a router table attached. From what I can tell I am going to need to attach some steel bar to the underside of the TS top to which I will be attaching some angle stock which will support the portion of the outfeed table that will be fixed (I plan to attach a fold up/down section to the fixed section).

I believe I am going to need to drill a couple of holes in the cast iron top in order to mount the steel bar underneath. I am also going to need to countersink these holes. Has anyone done this before? Do I need special bits to drill and countersink cast iron? Can I just use a basic corded drill for this?

Thanks
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post #2 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:31 PM
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Personally I get a good set of carbide drills. Regular "jobber" bits with go dull in a few seconds of drilling cast. How are you planning to attach the saw? Can't you use the pre-drilled holes that come in the saw or run supports from front to back and use "U" bolts in the wings? The best set ups like you describe had low platforms that the saw just sits on without the legs attached.

IF you want to use the legs and the Hercu-lift that comes on a lot of Ridgid TS, why not simply drill thru the sheet metal body of the saw and use angle iron to attach the permanent out feed shelf and then hinge off that? If you want the shelf to span the entire width of the saw including the wings, you can still hang the angles from the factory holes in the wings. That is how I did mine except I haven't built the swing down part... yet..





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Last edited by johnnie52; 11-09-2011 at 12:35 PM.
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post #3 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:36 PM
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Hey all,
I believe I am going to need to drill a couple of holes in the cast iron top in order to mount the steel bar underneath. I am also going to need to countersink these holes. Has anyone done this before? Do I need special bits to drill and countersink cast iron? Can I just use a basic corded drill for this?

Thanks
No. and Yes. I've drilled cast iron with HHS drill since I can remember, including into side and the rear of my table saw tops and wings... no problem. Just drill 'em dry, no oil. They will burst through at the last minute so ease up on the pressure as you come through. They will drill more easily with a 1/3 smaller pilot hole. Smaller the bit faster the RPM and vise versa.
Here some photos of me adding an extension support angle rail:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Personally I get a good set of carbide drills. Regular "jobber" bits with go dull in a few seconds of drilling cast. How are you planning to attach the saw? Can't you use the pre-drilled holes that come in the saw or run supports from front to back and use "U" bolts in the wings? The best set ups like you describe had low platforms that the saw just sits on without the legs attached.

IF you want to use the legs and the Hercu-lift that comes on a lot of Ridgid TS, why not simply drill thru the body of the saw and use angle iron to attach the permanent out feed shelf and then hinge off that?
Hi Johnnie

Thanks for the quick response........in terms of the drill bits, so I should get some good carbide bits?......do they have bits that drill a countersink in cast iron?

I suppose I could actually avoid drilling into the top and use U-bolts in the webbing in the wings. I'd have to see if they would end up being flush with the table top surface. If not I guess I could use the steel bar over the top side of the webbing and use some sort of spacer block between them and the angle below.

I will actually be taking the saw off of it's legs and mounting to the workstation platform. So the legs and Hercu-lift will no longer be used.
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post #5 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Personally I get a good set of carbide drills. Regular "jobber" bits with go dull in a few seconds of drilling cast. How are you planning to attach the saw? Can't you use the pre-drilled holes that come in the saw or run supports from front to back and use "U" bolts in the wings? The best set ups like you describe had low platforms that the saw just sits on without the legs attached.

IF you want to use the legs and the Hercu-lift that comes on a lot of Ridgid TS, why not simply drill thru the sheet metal body of the saw and use angle iron to attach the permanent out feed shelf and then hinge off that? If you want the shelf to span the entire width of the saw including the wings, you can still hang the angles from the factory holes in the wings. That is how I did mine except I haven't built the swing down part... yet..




I will have to check but I think that in order to use the factory holes you are talking about on my saw, I would have to actually remove the wings and insert the angle bar between the saw top and the two wings on either side and the re-attachd the wigs. I don't believe (but i will need to check this) that I have pre-existing factory holes on the outside edges of the wings that I can use. I suppose I could probably drill them easy enough.
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post #6 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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No. and Yes. I've drilled cast iron with HHS drill since I can remember, including into side and the rear of my table saw tops and wings... no problem. Just drill 'em dry, no oil. They will burst through at the last minute so ease up on the pressure as you come through. They will drill more easily with a 1/3 smaller pilot hole. Smaller the bit faster the RPM and vise versa.
Here some photos of me adding an extension support angle rail:

Thank you Bill. Love your setup. Sounds like it should not be too painfull for me to drill the cast. I can drill wood...lol...never tried cast iron though....i guess i am getting ready to try....
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post #7 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:49 PM
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If you looked at the second photo I attached, I mounted the angle iron to the saws sheet metal and then built up the difference using wooden blocks to get just below the saw top by about 1/2". IMO, its better for the shelf and or out feed table to be slightly below the saws surface. Better for the cut offs to drop a small amount than for them to hang on an out feed surface that is too high because of movement in the wood. Since you are removing the legs and the lift, why not make the station a little larger in back and built the out feed up from the station instead of attaching to the saw?

As for a cobalt counter sink, I haven't found one that is cost effective. I just use a bit that is two or three sizes bigger than the hole and drill just enough to bury the screw's head.

If Woodworking is so much fun why isn't it called WoodFUNNING?

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post #8 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by johnnie52 View Post
If you looked at the second photo I attached, I mounted the angle iron to the saws sheet metal and then built up the difference using wooden blocks to get just below the saw top by about 1/2". IMO, its better for the shelf and or out feed table to be slightly below the saws surface. Better for the cut offs to drop a small amount than for them to hang on an out feed surface that is too high because of movement in the wood. Since you are removing the legs and the lift, why not make the station a little larger in back and built the out feed up from the station instead of attaching to the saw?

As for a cobalt counter sink, I haven't found one that is cost effective. I just use a bit that is two or three sizes bigger than the hole and drill just enough to bury the screw's head.
I can't quite tell in the picture how you attached the angle to the sheet metal cabinet of the saw but i know what you mean. That is certainly something i can do as well
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post #9 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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one more quick question if I may......

can I cut the angle stock and/or steel bar with a metal cutting blade in my miter saw or should i just use a hacksaw or somethng along those lines?....dumb question I know but have never cut or drilled anything other than wood before.

Thanks
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post #10 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 01:41 PM
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one more quick question if I may......

can I cut the angle stock and/or steel bar with a metal cutting blade in my miter saw or should i just use a hacksaw or somethng along those lines?....dumb question I know but have never cut or drilled anything other than wood before.

Thanks

I would use a hacksaw, bandsaw, or chopsaw designed for cutting metal.

I would not use my miter saw.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #11 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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I would use a hacksaw, bandsaw, or chopsaw designed for cutting metal.

I would not use my miter saw.
thank you sir......of the three i only have a hacksaw.....guess it's time to sweat a little bit....lol
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post #12 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 01:57 PM
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I agree. Do not use a miter saw on iron or steel. I've cut aluminum up to 1/2" thick just fine with the right blade, but for iron or steel, only use a tool designed to cut ferrous metals. I did mine using a hack saw in just fifteen minutes and I'm unable to stand and use a hand saw at the same time. Get a good blade for your hack saw and it will go through steel fairly quickly.

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post #13 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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I agree. Do not use a miter saw on iron or steel. I've cut aluminum up to 1/2" thick just fine with the right blade, but for iron or steel, only use a tool designed to cut ferrous metals. I did mine using a hack saw in just fifteen minutes and I'm unable to stand and use a hand saw at the same time. Get a good blade for your hack saw and it will go through steel fairly quickly.
will doo......hacksaw it is..........he johnnie...could I ask you a huge favor?....if you get a chance, could you take a little closer up pic of the way you attached your angle to the side of your saw....i am thinking that may be the way to go rather than drilling through the tabletop....no rush.......just if you get a chance

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post #14 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 02:02 PM
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thank you sir......of the three i only have a hacksaw.....guess it's time to sweat a little bit....lol
A reciprocating saw (sawzall type) with a metal cutting blade works good if you have that saw. Cast iron drills pretty easy with HSS. If you have to it can be tapped and threaded.








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post #15 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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A reciprocating saw (sawzall type) with a metal cutting blade works good if you have that saw. Cast iron drills pretty easy with HSS. If you have to it can be tapped and threaded.











.
i do have a recip saw but not a blade for cutting metal. i think i will try the hacksaw.....the cuts don't have to be perfect, just fairly close (1/16) to the length i need.
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post #16 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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If you looked at the second photo I attached, I mounted the angle iron to the saws sheet metal and then built up the difference using wooden blocks to get just below the saw top by about 1/2". IMO, its better for the shelf and or out feed table to be slightly below the saws surface. Better for the cut offs to drop a small amount than for them to hang on an out feed surface that is too high because of movement in the wood. Since you are removing the legs and the lift, why not make the station a little larger in back and built the out feed up from the station instead of attaching to the saw?

As for a cobalt counter sink, I haven't found one that is cost effective. I just use a bit that is two or three sizes bigger than the hole and drill just enough to bury the screw's head.
Hey Johnnie,

After re-reading your response here I realized I missed something earlier. I like your suggestion of extending the back of the platform and building outfeed table support up from that as opposed to trying to attach it to the saw. Obviously I am not supporting huge loads but I am just wondering what you might suggest in terms of a concept or design for doing something like that. I can build stuff pretty well. I just am not very good at designing things. I am envisioning almost a real basic 2X4 rectangular box laying on it's side. The bottom side attached to the platform and the top attached to the underside of the outfeed table. The motor would basically be insde this rectangle. Does that make ansy sense?
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post #17 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 06:55 PM
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Like C-Man and Woodnthings said, high speed steel twist bits (marked HS) are all you need for CI. And like Woodnthings said, drill a pilot hole first (3/32" would do it) and drill with no lubricant. Center punch a dimple first so your drill bit doesn't walk on you.

When you saw your angle iron, you can squirt a little oil on the cut to help keep the saw sharp and the heat down. Use the same HS drills when drilling the steel angle, except use oil then.

Bill
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post #18 of 29 Old 11-09-2011, 11:38 PM
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will doo......hacksaw it is..........he johnnie...could I ask you a huge favor?....if you get a chance, could you take a little closer up pic of the way you attached your angle to the side of your saw....i am thinking that may be the way to go rather than drilling through the tabletop....no rush.......just if you get a chance
Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. I've been putting the last coat of poly on a candle holder and getting a rocking horse laid out and cut..... I'll get a photo in the morning of the method I used to attach my shelf to my saw. My order came today from Eagle and I have to get my new angle reader set up and working.

I'll also do a drawing of how I've seen others build work stations but I'm sure if you searched out on the web you'd find several examples of how its been done. Heck, I may just make one myself as I need some storage at the saw and hanging drawers from mine would make it unstable.

The drawings will be displayed in the forum as Jpegs as I use Autocad, not Sketch-up. Sorry about that, too many years designing machines to be learning different software at this stage in my life.

If Woodworking is so much fun why isn't it called WoodFUNNING?

I've made a few videos
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post #19 of 29 Old 11-10-2011, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. I've been putting the last coat of poly on a candle holder and getting a rocking horse laid out and cut..... I'll get a photo in the morning of the method I used to attach my shelf to my saw. My order came today from Eagle and I have to get my new angle reader set up and working.

I'll also do a drawing of how I've seen others build work stations but I'm sure if you searched out on the web you'd find several examples of how its been done. Heck, I may just make one myself as I need some storage at the saw and hanging drawers from mine would make it unstable.

The drawings will be displayed in the forum as Jpegs as I use Autocad, not Sketch-up. Sorry about that, too many years designing machines to be learning different software at this stage in my life.
Hey Johnnie,

Thank you so much for your help. I actually have some plans for the workstation, but would love to see any ideas you have.
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post #20 of 29 Old 11-10-2011, 09:33 AM
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I didn't attach mine, I just built a sidefeed/outfeed cabinet. Had to have a place for dust collection and other items.
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