Tablesaw feed technique - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old 11-23-2015, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Tablesaw feed technique

Hi Guys,

I own a DW745 saw,

I seem to have a problem with my tablesaw technique
I have been ripping strips to make end grain cutting boards
however the first inch(fed first) or so usually ends up slightly narrower.
Happens with all lengths consistently even short 12" pieces.

My left hand is used to push wood against fence ahead of the blade and righthand/push stick moves wood forward.

Does this sound like a technique problem ?
Should I get a featherboard ?

I checked fence and blade alignment with a dial gauge and they are pretty good, besides if they were off it should still cut straight right just bind maybe ?


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post #2 of 3 Old 11-23-2015, 06:25 AM
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A feather board is always a good 3rd hand helper.

You really do not need a digital gauge to check alignment.

You are correct about the saw cutting a consistently wide strip even if the alignment is off slightly. If the fence was closer to the back of the blade you would get binding and a burned board, but the width should be consistent. The back dimension would be the controlling dimension for the wood width.

If the back of the fence is further from the blade than the front then the front dimension is the controlling dimension. As long as the board is kept tight against the fence there would be no problem until the very end of the cut.

Your technique reads just the same way I would do the job.

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post #3 of 3 Old 11-23-2015, 09:33 AM
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shorter pieces are more tricky

Pieces around 12" can be an issue.

Start with the fence and see if aligns parallel to the miter slot when locked down. Can you wiggle it at all with firm pressure? You have to fix this first.

Use a clean and sharp blade. Dirty blades with gum in the gullets or on the plates don't cut accurately.

Put the splitter back on the saw, IF it's not on already. The splitter does not allow the work to twist off the fence at the rear after you've made a kerf. A feather board won't help much, if at all, with a short piece and may get in the way.

You need a push block, not a push stick, that will allow you to press down and in toward the blade simultaneously. There are a few commercial versions, but you can make one easily.

Like these:

The edge you register against the fence must be straight .... no curves or bumps. Raise the blade to about 1/4" to 1/2" above the thickness. The higher the blade the better it will rip, since the tips and cutting in a more downward direction as opposed to into the work, then downward. Some don't like a fully exposed blade, but other will say if you get cut by either the difference will be minimal.

You must push the work all the way through the back of the blade and DO NOT grab it, let it either slide on to your outfeed table (a safety must) or fall on the shop floor. You can use more workpieces to push each other through, but you must them add downward pressure with a push block. There are roller attachments for your fence that press down in front and at the rear of the blade, BUT I find them cumbersome and always in the way. See them attached to the Biesemeyer fence. Also notice a full height splitter behind the blade:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-23-2015 at 10:05 AM.
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