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Table saw motor keeps tripping
Just got a used Jet 10" contractor saw (JWTS-10JF) off craigslist & I'm going through it right now aligning & tightening things. I have had some intermittent trouble with the motor tripping (the reset button on the motor itself) when I stop & then restart the saw right away. Was more of an annoyance. Last night I aligned the pulleys, looked like they were off to me. I go to start the saw to cut some test dado's with the new dado set I bought & the motor trips every stinking time now. It'll start to spin, then trip.
I can spin the pulley, belt & blade fairly easily. Is this a start cap that is going bad? Any easy tests I can do to figure out what's wrong with it?
Thanks,
Dan
I can spin the pulley, belt & blade fairly easily. Is this a start cap that is going bad? Any easy tests I can do to figure out what's wrong with it?
Thanks,
Dan
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Have you tried the saw on a different circuit to rule out the breaker? I'd also try the motor with the belt off.
Do the tests mentioned.Is the power cord frayed?
***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102
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Just got a used Jet 10" contractor saw (JWTS-10JF) off craigslist & I'm going through it right now aligning & tightening things. I have had some intermittent trouble with the motor tripping (the reset button on the motor itself) when I stop & then restart the saw right away. Was more of an annoyance. Last night I aligned the pulleys, looked like they were off to me. I go to start the saw to cut some test dado's with the new dado set I bought & the motor trips every stinking time now. It'll start to spin, then trip.
I can spin the pulley, belt & blade fairly easily. Is this a start cap that is going bad? Any easy tests I can do to figure out what's wrong with it?
Thanks,
Dan
I can spin the pulley, belt & blade fairly easily. Is this a start cap that is going bad? Any easy tests I can do to figure out what's wrong with it?
Thanks,
Dan
If the start capacitor was bad it wouldn't start or would drag. If the overload switch is bad it's tripping for no reason and if the start and run windings are making contact (shorted) then your getting power from the start capacitor when your not supposed to and it trips the overload switch.
Last edited by rrbrown; 08-13-2010 at 03:20 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knotscott
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Have you tried the saw on a different circuit to rule out the breaker? I'd also try the motor with the belt off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchy Brother
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Do the tests mentioned.Is the power cord frayed?
Junior Member
never thought about trying it with the belt off. I'll try that tonight & see what happens. So if it trips, we've narrowed it to windings or overload switch & ruled out misalignment. Is the overload switch easily replaceable?
Power cord is good. It is the switch on the motor that pops. So far the breaker in the service panels has not tripped.
It's only 3 years old & the guy said he didn't use it much. He's a contractor & bought it to use on job sites. Needless to say this saw isn't very portable, so it just sat in his shop most of the time.
Power cord is good. It is the switch on the motor that pops. So far the breaker in the service panels has not tripped.
It's only 3 years old & the guy said he didn't use it much. He's a contractor & bought it to use on job sites. Needless to say this saw isn't very portable, so it just sat in his shop most of the time.
Bob D
Sounds like to me the start capacitors are bad. If they do not hold a charge for the startup the motor will pull what it needs to start from the line voltage and the amount of amps will spike to way over the breaker limit. My work shop compressor was doing the same thing and it was drawing 60 amps on startup.
Bob D
Bob D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102
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never thought about trying it with the belt off. I'll try that tonight & see what happens. So if it trips, we've narrowed it to windings or overload switch & ruled out misalignment. Is the overload switch easily replaceable?
Power cord is good. It is the switch on the motor that pops. So far the breaker in the service panels has not tripped.
It's only 3 years old & the guy said he didn't use it much. He's a contractor & bought it to use on job sites. Needless to say this saw isn't very portable, so it just sat in his shop most of the time.
Power cord is good. It is the switch on the motor that pops. So far the breaker in the service panels has not tripped.
It's only 3 years old & the guy said he didn't use it much. He's a contractor & bought it to use on job sites. Needless to say this saw isn't very portable, so it just sat in his shop most of the time.
Yes that witch is pretty easy to replace but take a whiff and see if you smell a burnt smell first.
The age of the saw makes it very likely that its a China motor if your lucky a Taiwan made motor. Unfortunately it dont have to be used much to have a winding problem especially for China made motors. The don't use as good of an insulator on the wire when winding and it either wears off or has voids that cause problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertd
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Sounds like to me the start capacitors are bad. If they do not hold a charge for the startup the motor will pull what it needs to start from the line voltage and the amount of amps will spike to way over the breaker limit. My work shop compressor was doing the same thing and it was drawing 60 amps on startup.
Bob D
Bob D
I don't believe it's the start capacitor because if it was it would wind or slow start then trip. If it starts fast and immediately trips then the start capacitors are most likely good.
I could be wrong but I don't think so.

Junior Member
ok. here's what i found out tonight.
Motor = Taiwan
Both pulleys spin freely.
Belt off = no trip, runs fine
Belt on, no blade = no trip, runs fine
single normal blade = trip occassionally
3/4" dado blade = trip every time
I bypassed the button on the motor & everything was fine. it started every time. So my question is, what damage could come of bypassing this switch on the motor permanently?
Motor = Taiwan
Both pulleys spin freely.
Belt off = no trip, runs fine
Belt on, no blade = no trip, runs fine
single normal blade = trip occassionally
3/4" dado blade = trip every time
I bypassed the button on the motor & everything was fine. it started every time. So my question is, what damage could come of bypassing this switch on the motor permanently?
Simple answer
Permanent Damage. Somethin ain't right here. Best to have it fixed, probaly just the thermal overload switch...could be loaded with dust, heats up and cuts out when hot. Blow it out first real good.
Switches are cheaper than motors.
bill
Switches are cheaper than motors.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
Last edited by woodnthings; 08-13-2010 at 09:52 PM.
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Replace the switch probably just a couple bucks at most. The Taiwan motor is a good thing. You don't find USA motors anymore.
its triping under load sounds like the overload contactor is faulty
Old wood workers never die thay just get dry rot
Junior Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown
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Replace the switch probably just a couple bucks at most. The Taiwan motor is a good thing. You don't find USA motors anymore.
Well it still has the problem.
The only way to start the thing is to lift the motor up slightly then hit the on button and pray. Half the time (getting worse) it starts up. Then I lower the motor and the saw is just fine until I turn it off, then I have to do it all over again. My belt is not pinching anything. Blade and all spins nice, The motor just doesn't kick over.
If it's a new thermo button where can I buy a new one?
I am running 110 v right now. Will 220 solve my problems and make me want to use the saw instead of sell it.
Thanks
I'm thinking along the lines of Bob D. The capacitor. I'd start there.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK007
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I'm thinking along the lines of Bob D. The capacitor. I'd start there.
Junior Member
I just bought the same model saw. The first few times it ran fine....then would trip the breaker (on a separate 20A circuit). The thermal reset on the motor was damaged when i got it. Looks like something was dropped on it. I have not replaced it as of yet. I just changed the belt to a anti vibration link belt. Now it trips the breaker 1 out of six starts. Reset the breaker....and it starts ok for 2 or 3 or 4 time...then trips again.
I have to agree that its a bad capacitor. That will cause the kind problems you're having.
If Woodworking is so much fun why isn't it called WoodFUNNING? 
I've made a few videos
http://www.youtube.com/user/johnnie52

I've made a few videos
http://www.youtube.com/user/johnnie52
Senior Member
One thing to keep in mind is that it will draw more amperage on start-up with dado attached. The motor needs to overcome more inertia with heavier dado. It may easily run without a blade attached but have an intermittent overload with a blade and any immediate overload with a dado.
Howie..........
Junior Member
FWIW: I found that my Jet saw would trip the breaker in the circuit box almost every time when the saw sat overnight in an unheated shop. I replaced the motor...Same problem. I replaced the breaker with a different brand. Was using Homeline by Square D......switched to Seimens.....problem solved. I also had another circuit that would periodically nuisance trip. Changed that breaker..problem solved. Seems Homeline breaker are prone to nuisance tripping when used for motors........interesting
Quote:
I have to agree that its a bad capacitor. That will cause the kind problems you're having.
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