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post #1 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Table Saw Issues

I have a Ridgid Contractor table saw. Yesterday I ran a piece of Paduk, 30"L x 6"W x 1.25"- I cut off a 3" piece with no issue. Turned it around, moved my fence over to shave a little off the opposite side, less than 1/8th. As i pushed the board through I got about 10" in and it wouldn't push any further. Turned it around and tried it from the other end, same result. I checked my fence to make sure I wasn't pinching the blade at the back and I wasn't, it actually had 1/16th more room between the blade and the fence.

A few moments later it did the same exact thing with a similar sized piece of maple. It continued to bind up and would not shave off the other edge.

Any and all thoughts appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 12:53 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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R U using a splitter or riving knife?

If the kerf does not go all the way through the board it won't go beyond the splitter.

Look for a dip in the throat plate at the rear where the work piece gets hung up.

Look for a knot or protrusion hanging down which gets hung up on the front edge of the table.

It's just an obstruction, if all else is working well..... bill

As a test rip a 3" wide piece of 3/4" plywood and see what happens.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 12:55 PM
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Is your blade sharp and table smooth? A sharp blade can make a big difference. The blade and fence sound pretty far out. I like things perfectly aligned myself but those who fade the back of the fence usually do so only by thousandths and not a full 1/16th". With such a thin cut I wouldn't think it's reaction wood grabbing.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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No splitter or riving knife. - I do have a micro splitter,just not installed yet.
That aside, I didn't see any knots in either board nor did it feel like it was catching on the throat plate.

It truly felt bogged down or pinched, but I couldn't figure out how or where. Wondering if I have a blade issue.
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 01:12 PM
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Before you even attempt to use that saw again, for Pete's sake put a splitter in that thing! You probably ARE binding because of a lack of a splitter... And you are danged lucky it hasn't kicked back on you...

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post #6 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 01:29 PM
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That happened to me when I first got my saw. I added a zero clearance insert with splitter and new, sharp blade. MASSIVE difference. (It was a used saw and didn't come with any of those things.)
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 05:35 PM
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Is your push stick catching on the front edge of the table?
Are you snagging something on the out feed table?
Is there a snag on the fence? (It doesn't take much.)
Is there a snag on the leading edge of the board that is catching on something?

Actually I like the suggestion about the throat plate being to deep in the table. The throat plate should be even to the smallest measurable distance above the table top.

You should be aware that when ripping flat boards that have been cut square on the ends, the square end will catch on almost anything.

Another thought. If you use the push stick next to the fence, the side of the push stick could be catching on the fence.

BTW - The placement of the push stick should be as close as possible to the blade. This helps to keep the stock against the fence and makes for a straighter cut. PUSH STICKS ARE INTENDED TO COME IN CONTACT WITH THE BLADE.

Use the right tool for the job.

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Last edited by rrich; 04-23-2012 at 05:39 PM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the replies!

There really isn't anything to catch on. I will double check the zc plate and fence, but I've never been able to catch on anything before. I doubt it was the board it'self, as it happened on two different boards.

It felt like I was fighting the blade. I could push(VERY HARD) and get it to go another inch or two, but that was it. If I pushed hard, the blade would burn. If I let go of pushing, it didn't try and kick back or even to push the board out. I almost had to pull the board out.

There was nothing visible to catch on that I could see last evening. Maybe I need a new blade.
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 06:19 PM
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It sounds from your description as if you were making rips cuts, is that correct?. Were you using a ripping balde? Also are you using a carbide tipped blade? Most likely you are but I made the mistake once of using a HSS blade in my table saw and had the exact same thing happen to me that you are describing. Nothign was getting caught on anything. The blade just got hot after a certain point during the cut and simply stopped cutting.
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 07:28 PM
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That happened to me once also. I was using a Oldham plywood blade, HSS, to cut some luan. The blade got hot and visibly warped.

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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