Table saw does not cut straight - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-19-2020, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Table saw does not cut straight

I am renovating an old Scheppach table saw that someone threw away. Have equipped it with a self made rip fence .as well as splitting blade. The does not cut straight but in a wavy pattern . Can anybody help me solve this problem?
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-19-2020, 11:44 AM
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The shaft on the saw is either bent, or the blade is warped or the blade is getting hot and warping. Could be a worn bearing on the shaft. IMHO

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post #3 of 5 Old 02-19-2020, 01:39 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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A saw picked from the trash .....

It may have one or more issues, and that's why it was trashed. I'd start by spinning the blade by hand to see if it wobbles. If so, that would mean it's has been over heated and warped. A new blade is in order in that case. Remove the old one a make sure the hole in the blade is the same as the new one, either Metric in mm's or inches like 5/8" arbor size. Take the old blade to the store and match it up there.


Another thing as Jim mentioned is that the shaft that holds the blade on is bent. There is basically no fix for that other than a new shaft. This would the main reason it was trashed, HOWEVER, it takes a huge amount of force to bend an arbor shaft, so not very likely.

This thread is worth your while to read as it contains fixes and means to check your blade alignment:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/...9/#post2097095

It "won't cut straight" is not specific enough to give good advice. Are you ripping or crosscutting? Does the cut appear to be 90 degrees to the table, is it square? We need more detailed information and a photo of what you are getting as a result.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-20-2020, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the prompt response and for the detailed information which I intend to study carefully . The “wavy” cuts occur while ripping as I still have to build my cross cutting sled . I tried both ,an old and a new blade but the result was the same ,though with the old blade I got heating marks too and Therefore ,sent it for sharpening. I’ll revert with more info as proceeding with the project.
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-20-2020, 05:32 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Is there any label on either blade?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Israel Ronen View Post
Thank you all for the prompt response and for the detailed information which I intend to study carefully . The “wavy” cuts occur while ripping as I still have to build my cross cutting sled . I tried both ,an old and a new blade but the result was the same ,though with the old blade I got heating marks too and Therefore ,sent it for sharpening. I’ll revert with more info as proceeding with the project.
https://www.scheppach.com/products/Table_Saw.aspx


The Sheppach is a European brand table saw .... so are you located outside of the USA? Fill in your location in the profile section of your User CP, in the solid black tool bar above by clicking on it. Advice is often location specific.



More detail required here. What does the blade label say? How many teeth on either blade. Burning is a sign of either a dull blade, or gum buildup and cleaning is required. The sharpening service will clean the one you sent away as well as sharpen it. Blade tooth count is important when ripping! A 40 tooth or less blade should be used when ripping. A 60 tooth blade or greater, should only be used for crosscutting.


Other issues may be:
The blade and fence are not parallel to the miter slot as manufacturers suggest for proper setup. This is a simple, but possibly tedious procedure to adjust depending of the type and make and model of your saw. More information is required to help you on this. Saws have different procedures for aligning the blade to the miter slot. Some are adjusted from underneath by loosing the bolts that hold the saw carriage and trunnions. The trunnions are the brackets that allow the saw to tilt for making bevel cuts. Other saws adjust by loosening the bolts that secure the table top to the cabinet, those are typically ONLY on a cabinet type saw, the bigger and more expensive ones.


Another possibility is the fence is warped as well as not parallel to the blade causing a binding at the rear of the blade. Here's a videos about aligning the blade on a contractor type table saw. He does turn it upside down for easier access to the bolts that secure the trunnions:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 02-20-2020 at 06:02 AM.
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