Table Saw Adjustment - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTooBad
It's been perfect for 3 years and now it's so far off that it can't be aligned properly? What caused you to know it needed alignment? Did something happen that threw it off? It sounds like something may be bent, not allowing it to be aligned. Does it get better, worse or stay the same as you move the blade up, down or change the bevel? If the alignment changes when you adjust the height and/or bevel, then something is definitely bent in the support structure.
When I feed a piece through the blade as it exits the back digs into the wood. I don't see the alignment changing. I've tried everything. Appreciate your advise partner.
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post #22 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings
OK, it's not cutting deeper then.
It's cutting wider at the rear than the front?
That's what I was getting at by saying the fence is shifting, a dangerous situation.
OR the fence is just not parallel to the blade, but not moving during the cut, also a dangerous condition.
How about a picture or sketch of what you are getting?

You may have to file out one or more of the holes a bit to get the arbor carriage to move enough. make certain the trunnions are snugged up to the carriage. If they aren't, it will throw everything off. The carriage may just slide on the rear trunnion, but it should have a locking bolt on the front trunnion. Make certain the locking bolt is snug.
Terminology - wider is what I meant. The blade cuts wider as the wood exits the rear. I just put the bracket in my vise and tried the rat tail file, but the design of the bracket still wouldn't allow it to shift enough. I have no memory of doing anything unusual to cause this problem. I just noticed it one day and starting researching the solution. To be honest, I think I'm out of options. I've tried everything. Many thanks for all your advice!
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post #23 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman

You haven't addressed why after three years, all of a sudden the saw is out of alignment. If it can change that easily, it should be fixable easily. IOW, why would you have to remove anything, since all those parts were in spec for all that time.




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It's worked fine since I purchased it which I think was about three years ago. Maybe less. That's what bugs me. It should be fixable. After four hours I know the workings of this thing better than I know my wife's, but I can't get it. I'm really feeling like I'm out of options. Thanks partner!!
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post #24 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jascotx
I guess my long winded point was...consider your safety above all else. That saw came out of alignment for a reason. Something changed. Is it REALLY worth a finger to continue to use it?? Not to mention all the frustration and poor cuts. Be careful. That's all. Best of luck.
Not sure what choices I have. I can't sell it as is and can't afford to just go out and buy a new one. Thanks for your feedback!
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post #25 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTooBad
I wonder if there had been a washer in there, maybe something not made of metal, that failed and fell out, but you never noticed it (got sucked up by the DC?)? Is there any play at the fixed end of the adjustment rod? Is the frame that the adjustment rod goes into (on the table side, not the blade side) bent?

Quite the puzzle you've got there.
Agreed-it's a puzzle to be sure. No indication of any missing hardware. Anything's possible. Ready to throw in the towel. Thanks,
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post #26 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jascotx
Ugggh.... I really feel for you. I had a Delta table saw that I periodically checked the alignment on. And, 1 day low and behold, the alignment and was way off, much like you described. I wrestled with that machine for over a solid month. Nothing worked, and I refused to re-drill, thinking that if something was truly bent it would just mask the real issue and create a bigger hazard. After all, a bad accident on the saw was what I was trying to prevent. In the end, the saw won and I gave it back to Delta for them to figure out for their own product research. The only thing I could figure is that on day something bound up a little bit, and in the process of cranking on the assembly, I bent something. My new saw was a Craftsman zipcode saw. I shunned them at first, but when I looked further I understood the benefits of cabinet mounted trunions. I have adjusted my saw once at setup....took literally 15 minutes and had a perfect .003 from front to back...it was heaven. Sorry for your misery....truly I understand.
Yeah this definitely sucks. Very disappointed that it can't be fixed. Maybe someday I'll have a revelation and remember something I did to cause this. Thanks for the feedback.
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post #27 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissionIsMyMission
Uhmmm...Is it that the rear of the blade needs to go to the left 1/16" OR the Front of the blade needs to go 1/16" to the right??

Also, If I remember correctly the Table on this saw can be adjusted as well.

What Model# do you have? It would help to troubleshoot. I wouldn't be grinding and drilling just yet. Factory settings should be ample to make the adjustments you need without altering anything. Slow down and Think it all through.
It's the rear of the blade. It's Model G0444Z. The table cannot be adjusted. I tried. Thanks!
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post #28 of 37 Old 01-29-2013, 10:24 PM
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I tried to read thru the thread before posting but here is what I would do. It could be that when you tighten the nuts or bolts it moves as its being tightened. I would tighten the bolts enough to hold and find a place to lay a board against it and use a hammer to move the side needed. I'm a metal head and can bend, straighten and tune anything metal. Top might be warped pulling it out. If you get it where you want it, then try to further tighten.

Al

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post #29 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 05:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer
I tried to read thru the thread before posting but here is what I would do. It could be that when you tighten the nuts or bolts it moves as its being tightened. I would tighten the bolts enough to hold and find a place to lay a board against it and use a hammer to move the side needed. I'm a metal head and can bend, straighten and tune anything metal. Top might be warped pulling it out. If you get it where you want it, then try to further tighten.

Al

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Thanks Al. I'll give it a try tonight. I was not aware that a thick cast iron top like this one could warp!! Maybe that's the cause?? I'll take a look.
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post #30 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 05:57 AM
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I don't think that's what he meant...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pebble41 View Post
Thanks Al. I'll give it a try tonight. I was not aware that a thick cast iron top like this one could warp!! Maybe that's the cause?? I'll take a look.

I wouldn't suspect the saw top is warped, but it's possible.

What may be happening is that when/if you can get it properly positioned , it moves when you tighten down the bolts and loses the position. Your bolts may have flat washers, not good if they are deformed, or star washers which are better.

My understanding of your dilemma was that you can NOT get it aligned and insert all four bolts. You were wondering whether to elongate the holes to allow for more lateral adjustment. Assuming you've solved that problem....I donno? then getting it snugged down without losing the position is the next issue.

Where are you in the process?

BTW, if you have a flat sanding disc from years ago, it makes a nice plane, without projecting teeth, to use a straight edge against for alignment. If not, just make certain your straight edge is clearing the teeth and is flush against the plate of the blade. By having a longer reference in front and to the rear of the blade, rather than just the blade itself, your accuracy is greatly increased.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-30-2013 at 04:12 PM. Reason: spelinq
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post #31 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pebble41 View Post
It's the rear of the blade. It's Model G0444Z. The table cannot be adjusted. I tried. Thanks!
I KNOW the rear of the blade is where the extra material is being taken off but....If you move the front of the blade to align with the rear you accomplish the same thing. JMHO

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post #32 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MissionIsMyMission

I KNOW the rear of the blade is where the extra material is being taken off but....If you move the front of the blade to align with the rear you accomplish the same thing. JMHO
My thought exactly. Problem is you cannot adjust the front at all. The design prohibits any movement of the front trunnion.
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post #33 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pebble41 View Post
It's the rear of the blade. It's Model G0444Z. The table cannot be adjusted. I tried. Thanks!
I KNOW the rear of the blade is where the extra material is being taken off but....If you move the front of the blade to align with the rear you accomplish the same thing. JMHO

Still Got ALL my Fingers!!!
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post #34 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings

I wouldn't suspect the saw top is warped, but it's possible.

What may be happening is that when/if you can get it properly positioned , it moves when you tighten down the bolts and loses the position. Your bolts may have flat washers, not good if they are deformed, or star washers which are better.

My understanding of your dilemma was that you can NOT get it aligned and insert all four bolts. You were wondering whether to elongate the holes to allow for more lateral adjustment. Assuming you've solved that problem....I donno? then getting it snugged down without losing the position is the nest issue.

Where are you in the process?

BTW, if you have a flat sanding disc from years ago, it makes a nice plane, without projecting teeth, to use a straight edge against for alignment. If not, just make certain your straight edge is clearing the teeth and is flush against the plate of the blade. By having a longer reference in front and to the rear of the blade, rather than just the blade itself, you accuracy is greatly increased.
Agreed - thanks. Tonight I'm reassembling the saw. I'm going to try the adjustment again with the motor mounted. A friend suggested that maybe the arbor is bent - I don't think it is,but any things possible at this point. I understand your comments about taking the measurement,but this is actually visible without measuring it. I can see that it's out of align. Thanks !!
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post #35 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 04:15 PM
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that's weird

Quote:
Originally Posted by pebble41 View Post
My thought exactly. Problem is you cannot adjust the front at all. The design prohibits any movement of the front trunnion.
Does it not have holes for 2 bolts, probably 3/8 x 16?
How about a picture of this before you reassemble it?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #36 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings
Does it not have holes for 2 bolts, probably 3/8 x 16?
How about a picture of this before you reassemble it?
Yes - two bolts. 1/4 inch. I'll see if I can get few pictures tonight. I'm just noticing a slight ticking type of noise when I rotate the arbor/pulley assembly. It's very slight, but now I'm wondering.........
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post #37 of 37 Old 01-30-2013, 10:00 PM
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+1 for PALS. I had a saw once that had bad alignment problems and it turned out to be the blade shaft. There was too much play so it would move randomly. I was able to fix it by making a custom washer to take up the slop. It doesn't sound like this is your issue but I hope it helps you keep looking.
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