super frustrated with Table saw adjustments - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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super frustrated with Table saw adjustments

So when I bought my used Jet table saw I had to tweak the blade aligment to the miter slot. Yesterday I built my first crosscut sled and when I made my first cut on a long piece of MDF to my dismay I was getting burn marks on the wood. So I check the alignment and it was alittle off.

I tried to adjust the saw again, and to make a long story short I spent about 2 hours trying to adjust it. I measured it to be about .2mm off which was the best I could do. I figured "good enough" and grabbed another (smaller) piece of wood and made some cuts and they were way off!! Defiantly not good enough!

Can someone give me pointers on how to get this right!!!
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 10:38 PM
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Burn marks? IMO, if your saw is sharp, it's not your alignment, it's your power vs. stock thickness and/or your feed-rate.

Also, blade set at the proper height?

MDF is a PITA to cut in any case... they make special blades for that, don't they?

(IOW, I wouldn't look at alignment as the culprit)

Last edited by Buffalo Bilious; 01-29-2008 at 10:44 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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The Blade is brand new it was the high end Frued blade and it is only 3/4 inch MDF... And my corners are not square...

I don't know the model number, but it is an older contractor saw that is blue, not white.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 11:08 PM
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I would tend to think you are correct, that the blade is not aligned.
What have you done so far to adjust the blade?

Never lick a steak knife.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob View Post
I would tend to think you are correct, that the blade is not aligned.
What have you done so far to adjust the blade?
There are two 1/2" bolt in the front and two in the back that I losen in order to shift the blade. I accidently removed 2 of them too far and ended up taking out most of the saw apart. So i loosened the bolts shifted the blade in position, measuring the front and back of the blade to the slot and then tightened them. I tightened them a few times to make sure that the blade wasn't being pulled as i tightened them...
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 11:18 PM
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This is a pretty good tutorial (free) on tuning a saw.
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...-perfect-cuts/
Also, have you tried making a cut wuth the miter guage? How'd that come out?

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 11:25 PM
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Yup, that's the trunion and that's what is supposed to be adjusted.
I guess the next question would be...how are you measuring?
Sorry to ask so many questions...just trying to narrow down a bit.

I responded to another post a few days ago about this.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=2897

Have you tried ripping any stock?

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-29-2008, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob View Post
Yup, that's the trunion and that's what is supposed to be adjusted.
I guess the next question would be...how are you measuring?
Sorry to ask so many questions...just trying to narrow down a bit.

I responded to another post a few days ago about this.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/showthread.php?t=2897

Have you tried ripping any stock?
I don't mind answering questions, I just want to get good cuts.

I measure from the miter with an adjustable combination square (i think that's what its called.... ) resting it on its side, the edge of it in the miter track, i extend the ruler to the blade and then lock it in place. Then i check the same spot on the blade at the other end of the slot.....

i tried using a caliper, but it was hard to get a good reading...

I don't have a miter gauge, that is why I built a sled, i have tried to cut some stock, that i how i first noticed that it was off...

I will check out that POD cast too
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-30-2008, 06:28 AM
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You said you used your crosscut sled to place the wood on and cut it. My question is; are you absolutely sure your crosscut sled is true? If not that could be your problem. Try cutting a piece with the miter gauge it it is true and view the results.

Wayne

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-30-2008, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the information. I have read through most of it and have some good new tactics to try next time. I probably won't get a chance to try adjusting it again for a couple days...
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-30-2008, 06:01 PM
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Try making sure the blade is SQUARE to the TOP. If it is not it will burn the cut. After you have it square then square to the slot, make very sure you are not catching a tooth. I square off the blade body not the teeth.
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post #12 of 12 Old 02-02-2008, 07:31 AM
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In this order-
Align the blade so it is parallel to the miter slots in the table.
Rip fence parallel to the blade (or an extremely small amount of wider at the back of the blade).
Sled stop strip 90deg to the blade.
jim
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