Stair treads help - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 04-27-2018, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Stair treads help

I donít mind replacing them if itís easy to take out and put new one in. As someone mentioned is it easy to damage the side skirts?


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Last edited by dws780; 04-27-2018 at 10:52 PM.
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post #22 of 26 Old 04-27-2018, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay C. White Cloud View Post
Not true at all if done properly...

I filled a 3"x 14"x 5" void and multiple smalle fissures all over a Locust log that acts as the roll bar for a timber-framed 12' high obstacle wall on a boot camp Challenge Course well over a decade ago... It's going strong after thousands of participants hours and exposure to weather...Among countless floor, stair, boat deck and related repairs of the same or similar nature...

They don't fail if you know what you doing...

Method's thus described are more than durable enough to withstand foot traffic...if done properly. It's a matter of skill sets and good application to whether it holds or doesn't...



Not sure how many stairs you do in a year, but in my experience your early advise is ill-advised. They do indeed get destroyed or damage beyond salvage in most cases.

As Big Jim offered it's often better (not always) to just cut them out if not repaired in-situ with epoxy and/or wood stripping, and replace with new wood....Assuming that access to under the stairs and proper repairs can't be carried out...



Incorrect again...

It's not a problem at all if you care to read the entire post...The method of carrying the kerf past the 3" is but a simple matter of no accord or challenge at all...Have done it...and do it all the time in very similar restorations...
Filling a gap in a joint with epoxy has zero chance of holding the wood together. If it worked for you it's because the wood hasn't shrunk yet. Wood movement will eventually get it. Filling a joint with epoxy is not knowing what you are doing.

I do a stairway at least once a year. In any case I had a furniture repair shop for more than a decade and have done tons of repair work as well as currently being in the home repair business. From what I can see in the pictures I see no reason I couldn't repair the treads. If it breaks it's because someone got over zealous with nails. Then you can often pry the wood up enough to run a metal cutting sawzall blade under the tread and cut the nails off. Properly regluing the treads is the only permanent solution.

As far as the router, I don't care to hack out the last three inches by hand. The joint needs to be machined straight and true.
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post #23 of 26 Old 04-27-2018, 09:30 PM
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Come on guys ....

You are arguing hypotheticals. Neither one of you is gonna be there to help the OP do this so it doesn't matter who is right. This is not a structural joint it is an appearance issue. Just fill it with epoxy, smooth it down into the crack and be done with it. Don't tear up the stairs for this issue, it ain't worth it. The dark stain will hide almost any repair unless you know exactly where top look and I'm not tellin'
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #24 of 26 Old 04-27-2018, 10:08 PM
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Filling a gap in a joint with epoxy has zero chance of holding the wood together. If it worked for you it's because the wood hasn't shrunk yet. Wood movement will eventually get it. Filling a joint with epoxy is not knowing what you are doing.
I designed and installed the timber frame Challenge Course wood element (green wood per my usual) in 1996...

That would be 22 years ago...

I would suggest, without going into it with you again Steve, stop speaking from..."I think"....points of view...and more from..."I've done this..." perspectives...As I have on this and every post I share on this forum...

Time and "wood movent" will degrade everything made of wood...That's a moot point at best...

The OP of this thread asked for viable..." experienced"...solutions to a challenge...Not guesses, narrow viewpoints, "I think" perspectives, or obfuscated negative views from a moderator...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
...Properly regluing the treads is the only permanent solution...
Really...???

So there is only one professional "permanent solution" and the explanation offered by other professional woodworkers here (myself included) are the ones that are misguided and your is the "professional one?"

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...As far as the router, I don't care to hack out the last three inches by hand. The joint needs to be machined straight and true...
"Hack out"....???

Sorry, my client list includes Larry Bird, The Eisenhower Estate, Martha Stewart, et al...

I don't "hack out" anything nor recommend that anyone else does either...

As usual, Steve your sour tone detracts the conversation, while further sharing only negative and condescending feedback toward another professional...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
I do a stairway at least once a year. In any case I had a furniture repair shop for more than a decade and have done tons of repair work as well as currently being in the home repair business. From what I can see in the pictures I see no reason I couldn't repair the treads...
Sorry...

Your advice is wrong, in my view, back by 40 years of experience, and the negativity about the other advice offered by well-seasoned professionals would suggest your advice is rather narrow in view and not well founded within a spectrum of experiences and craft disciplines...But that's just me...

We can agree to disagree...

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Last edited by Jay C. White Cloud; 04-27-2018 at 10:27 PM.
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post #25 of 26 Old 04-27-2018, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You are arguing hypotheticals. Neither one of you is gonna be there to help the OP do this so it doesn't matter who is right. This is not a structural joint it is an appearance issue. Just fill it with epoxy, smooth it down into the crack and be done with it. Don't tear up the stairs for this issue, it ain't worth it. The dark stain will hide almost any repair unless you know exactly where top look and I'm not tellin'
Agreed Woodnthings...taking out the stair tread is but a single option...and not the best...agreed...

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Confucius (551 BCE): "I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand..." "...Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance..." Socrates:ďI cannot teach anybody anything. I can only help them think..."
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post #26 of 26 Old 04-27-2018, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay C. White Cloud View Post
I designed and installed the timber frame Challenge Course wood element (green wood per my usual) in 1996...

That would be 22 years ago...

I would suggest, without going into it with you again Steve, stop speaking from..."I think"....points of view...and more from..."I've done this..." perspectives...As I have on this and every post I share on this forum...

Time and "wood movent" will degrade everything made of wood...That's a moot point at best...

The OP of this thread asked for viable..." experienced"...solutions to a challenge...Not guesses, narrow viewpoints, "I think" perspectives, or obfuscated negative views from a moderator...



Really...???

So there is only one professional "permanent solution" and the explanation offered by other professional woodworkers here (myself included) are the ones that are misguided and your is the "professional one?"



"Hack out"....???

Sorry, my client list includes Larry Bird, The Eisenhower Estate, Martha Stewart, et al...

I don't "hack out" anything nor recommend that anyone else does either...

As usual, Steve your sour tone detracts the conversation, while further sharing only negative and condescending feedback toward another professional...



Sorry...

Your advice is wrong, in my view, back by 40 years of experience, and the negativity about the other advice offered by well-seasoned professionals would suggest your advice is rather narrow in view and not well founded within a spectrum of experiences and craft disciplines...But that's just me...

We can agree to disagree...
It comes down to woodworking 101. You can't glue two pieces of wood together with a 1/32" of epoxy between the boards. Even if you separated the boards where you could completely fill the space with epoxy it wouldn't work.

The OP is looking for correct solutions, not an over active imagination.

There is only one solution. Because it is very difficult other craftsman an easy patch to make do at the moment. I can understand that but he might as well color bondo and fill the gap with that than to use epoxy.

As usual you can't stand for anyone to have a different option and try to start an argument.

Sorry but your advise is an amateur patch based on my 45 years experience. It couldn't be more wrong.
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