Something to consider when doing breadboard ends - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 04-17-2011, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Something to consider when doing breadboard ends

So, I've glued up a 1" thick tabletop out of red oak. It is 3 foot wide. I used six 6 inch boards to make the top. While laying out the breadboard end I noticed a mistake that I have made. I want to pin the breadboard ends and have one pin in the center. Well, the very center is a glue joint, meaning that if I drill and pin the pin will end up in the glue joint. So, in the future I will us an odd number of boards to avoid this. What about now though? Will it damage the top to pin the center one in the glue joint?

Did I ask that right?

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post #2 of 24 Old 04-17-2011, 02:25 PM
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It will be fine.

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OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 24 Old 04-17-2011, 03:54 PM
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If the boards are joined properly ( square, no gaps, etc) you'll be fine.
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post #4 of 24 Old 04-17-2011, 04:36 PM
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A pin gkued in the middle is actually good. It will hold the breadboard ends centered. The expansion and contraction of the table top will be more or less centered anyway. This center pin should prevent the ends from sliding too far one way or the other.

Curious questions....did you not glue all the boards making up the table top? If not, was it a design thing like for the 'look' of the table or was it because you didn't know you could?

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post #5 of 24 Old 04-18-2011, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
A pin gkued in the middle is actually good. It will hold the breadboard ends centered. The expansion and contraction of the table top will be more or less centered anyway. This center pin should prevent the ends from sliding too far one way or the other.

Curious questions....did you not glue all the boards making up the table top? If not, was it a design thing like for the 'look' of the table or was it because you didn't know you could?
No, I glued the top up a week ago. I have not glued the breadboard ends on yet. I am only at the laying out stage of the breadboard tennon. I will get some photos of it today.

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post #6 of 24 Old 04-18-2011, 11:29 AM
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Do not glue the breadboard ends on, you will be defeating their purpose.

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post #7 of 24 Old 04-18-2011, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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I thought you glued the center tennon, then peg the others with elongated slots?

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post #8 of 24 Old 04-18-2011, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdtexan View Post
I thought you glued the center tennon, then peg the others with elongated slots?

Sorry if I confused you and myself. What I meant to say is that it is OK to glue the center pin/peg and the other pegs go in elongated holes without glue. You never glue the actual breadboard ends themselves. After re-reading your original post, it now makes more sense to me. Your original question was really based on the pin being on a joint line between two board as opposed to being in the center of a board. Given this, I would say that as long as the original boards were glued up properly, they should not give or split because the pin is in the center of the glue joint.

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post #9 of 24 Old 04-19-2011, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Another question if yall dont mind. When finishing the table top do I need to finish it before I peg the breadboards so that the tennons get sealed or do I apply a finish after the breadboards have been pegged?

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post #10 of 24 Old 04-19-2011, 08:09 PM
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.....When finishing the table top do I need to finish it before I peg the breadboards so that the tennons get sealed or do I apply a finish after the breadboards have been pegged?
I finish after everything has been put together, pegged and it has been final sanded. Then I finish it as a single piece. many may disagree with this and do it in stages with a lot of masking. This is just the way I do it and have never had a problem.

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post #11 of 24 Old 04-19-2011, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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I finish after everything has been put together, pegged and it has been final sanded. Then I finish it as a single piece. many may disagree with this and do it in stages with a lot of masking. This is just the way I do it and have never had a problem.
Tony, where I can I get red oak dowel in our area? Maybe I need to figure out how to make some.

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post #12 of 24 Old 04-19-2011, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mjdtexan View Post
Tony, where I can I get red oak dowel in our area?
I would think that WoodCraft would have them. They are up towards N. Houston somewhere. On the NW side of Houston there is Houston Hardwoods, I'm pretty sure they have dowels in several flavors.
Also in NW Houston is Brazos Forest Products, I believe they have them also.

If you don't have a lathe, there is an easy alternative to small diameter dowels. Get an old piece of 1/4" or thicker steel plate. Drill a 1/4" hole through it. Then make a few short pieces of 1/4" X 1/4" square pieces of oak strips and hammer them through the 1/4" hole. It will yield much better results than you would expect.

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post #13 of 24 Old 04-20-2011, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B
Get an old piece of 1/4" or thicker steel plate. Drill a 1/4" hole through it. Then make a few short pieces of 1/4" X 1/4" square pieces of oak strips and hammer them through the 1/4" hole. It will yield much better results than you would expect.
This will work well. It's funny that you mentioned this Tony. I record a few woodworking shows and Roy Underhill and his guest demonstrated this on his show (rerun) last Sunday.

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post #14 of 24 Old 04-20-2011, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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This will work well. It's funny that you mentioned this Tony. I record a few woodworking shows and Roy Underhill and his guest demonstrated this on his show (rerun) last Sunday.
Which show is that? I record Tommy Mac every Saturday on PBS.

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post #15 of 24 Old 04-20-2011, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I made me a dowel tool. I just picked up a piece of steel, drilled a " hole in it, chamfered on side and hammer some red oak through it. Works perfect. I saw that Swartz (however you spell his name) fellow do it on You-Tube with a purpose made one. I will peg my breadboard ends on tomorrow.

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post #16 of 24 Old 04-20-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mjdtexan View Post
.....I made me a dowel tool. I just picked up a piece of steel, drilled a " hole in it, chamfered on side and hammer some red oak through it. Works perfect.......
Congrats....I wouldn't steer you wrong.

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post #17 of 24 Old 04-21-2011, 01:31 AM
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Which show is that? I record Tommy Mac every Saturday on PBS.
The Woodwright's Shop. It air on PBS in Los Angeles last Monday. The episode was called "A Very Boring Program."

Edit:

I watched that episode online and it wasn't the one I was referring to. Sorry I couldn't find it.

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Last edited by rsetina; 04-21-2011 at 03:21 AM.
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post #18 of 24 Old 04-21-2011, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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The Woodwright's Shop. It air on PBS in Los Angeles last Monday. The episode was called "A Very Boring Program."

Edit:

I watched that episode online and it wasn't the one I was referring to. Sorry I couldn't find it.
Thats right, I believe they quit showing him here. I really like that show and his old old tools.

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post #19 of 24 Old 04-21-2011, 09:50 PM
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soooooo...

breadboard ends are just pressure fitted? i'm lost on the "elongated hole" and "pins/dowels"?!?!?! i swear i'm actually pretty bright...nah, thats a lie.

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post #20 of 24 Old 04-21-2011, 09:57 PM
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Here is what the elongated holes are all about.
2 slightly different ways to do it.
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Last edited by Tony B; 04-21-2011 at 10:02 PM.
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