solid core doors - bench build - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 29 Old 08-28-2013, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by railaw View Post
Thx. It is a union blade. I'm going to give another go this week and then we'll see if I will need to take you up on that. I have had no trouble with chisels or other irons so I don't know what's up.

Ps I posted on the same topic on an old thread in the hand tools section where I had discussed this jointer previously.
The only time I sharpened a blade which turned out not to be sharp was due to my not paying attention to whether I had a a burr.

The blade looked nice and shiny, but did not cut at all. I was scratching my head.

I looked at the edge under a magnifying glass and the very tip was rounded, so 99.9% of the blade was polished, but not the 0.1% I needed to cut.

I started again, this time ensuring I had a burr with each grit. Viola, this time it looked sharp and did cut.
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post #22 of 29 Old 08-28-2013, 01:50 PM
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Railaw; I used a solid core door 10 years ago for my work bench and it is still there. 2 x 4 frame and two cross members. 82" long and 40" wide. Two years ago I had some laminate flooring left over from dining room build, and covered the top with that. Edge banded the bench with poplar. I have never had a problem with the table flexing or moving. Good solid table.

My father was my inspiration for woodworking, wish he was still around for more advice. Luv ya Dad.
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post #23 of 29 Old 09-10-2013, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Square dog hole dimensions?

How much extra room should there be in a square dog hole vs. the size of the square dog? e.g. if the shaft of the dog is say 3/4 square, with an appropriate taper at the bottom and an overhang of 5/16", what should the hold size be? Would a 1/16th larger have enough room to allow easy sliding up and down but still hold? 32nd? 8th?

I am setting up a router jig to make the dog holes for the four strips I will be gluing to the front of the top (doors), ala the benchcrafted suggestion.

Also, any thoughts on securing the two doors together would be appreciated (bolts and washers? Dowels? Screws in the outer hardwood frame?)
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post #24 of 29 Old 09-17-2013, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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I've finally made some progress on the bench. A few weeks ago I bought a 2x12x16 of doug fir ( syp is pricey around here) following the suggestion of Chris schwarz. I cut it in half with my disston no 12 panel saw, which was fun, then after letting the boards acclimate a couple of weeks brought it to a buddy's to rip on his table saw. He doesn't have a jointer but I figure I'll be hand jointing the too at the end anyway so as long as the edges of the board are reasonably straight it'll be fine. I got 4 3 1/2" boards, 96" long out of the board I bought. Final dimensions will be 93" long and 3 7/16" wide, stood in end to attach to the front of the sandwiched doors. I cut around the pit so the resulting boards are "quarter sawn".

Here are the four cut boards.



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Then I started matching them up for gluing. After a few combinations I took the two boards that were the closest fit and lined them up face to face and marked where they were closest together. Then I got out my no. 5 and got to work knocking them down.

solid core doors - bench build-image-1857033538.jpg


The bench right now is absurdly high for hand planing (it's about 44") even with me being 6'5". But I have some renaissance wax on the sole and I was really surprised what a big difference it makes.

I was at it for about an hour and am chasing my tail a little bit am starting to get the hang of it I think. Here's where I stopped for the evening:



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I'll have to decide at some point when it's "good enough" over at least 93" of the boards. Would be interested in input from anyone else who did this by hand.

Last edited by railaw; 09-17-2013 at 12:45 AM.
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post #25 of 29 Old 09-17-2013, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Made some quick progress tonight. In about ten minutes got the two boards to good enough. The is one gap about a foot long and maybe a couple of sheets of paper in width. I think that's as good as I'm going to get. Forgot to take a photo.

I would be curious to hear from others who glued up tops prepared with hand tools how good was "good enough" for them.

Tomorrow I will add a third board. The fourth may be too warped to use.
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post #26 of 29 Old 09-19-2013, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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It's more progress tonight. I think tonight I have learned the value of a Power jointer. I've cleaned down all four boards with my number five sufficiently that with clamp pressure there are only a few gaps. One board has a pretty good toe in it which results in a gap even with the clamp pressure but I've deemed it. good enough. My wife though I was nuts when I told her the work I've done all week could be accomplished in about 15 minutes using the 4" jointer I saw on cl for $50. Instead in going to spend $50 for a new iron for my jointer plane. Oh well.

No time for work tomorrow. Friday will be finishing the jig for routing the square dog holes and hopefully testing it out.

Here's some pics.



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post #27 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't had much time to work on this until this week. In that time I was able to get the jointer iron sharpened, got a new cap screw for it, marveled at how much the wood moved over the prior three weeks, used the jointer to clean them up a bit more and started in on the dog strip.

I made a few decisions about the plan, which I usually dither on for too long. I have four strips that I'm adding to the front of the bench. I had decided to make the dog strip the their from the outside, on the outer part of the board. But the I had to make them on the inner part based on the way I made the dog jig. Not a big deal.

I also am going to mount an end vise in place of a wagon vise and was concerned about mounting it in end grain. The end vise is small, so I'm going to rebate the ends and put a "cap" on the end tall enough to accept the hardware for the vise, and it will have lots of face grain to face grain glue surface.

To cut the dog holes, i made the dimensions based on a metal dog that I happened across and tweaked the template on a scrap piece, establishing the 2 deg bevel on the. Chop saw. The depth was the hardest to figure but I ended up at about 15/16. I then marked out all 20 on the strip, 4" apart, with the first about 5" from the end. The I set the depth of my circular saw to less the the final cutting depth and ran two kerfs a little inside each edge. The I broke out the chisels and popped of the waste, which I figured of halfway through how to pretty much do in one pop. I cracked one spot where I shouldn't when I tried using a (dull) backsaw for comparison and was screwing around wit a chisel smacking where I shouldn't have. I was able to revalue the piece though. Then I got my new whiteside 1/2" 3/4 cl top bearing bit and cleaned up the slots wit the template. Pics to follow.
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post #28 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieL
Railaw - I've been using a solid core door for a bench and they are great. They are flat and stable and heavy - the basics of a good bench. After abusing my door for 12 years, I covered it last year with bamboo flooring $55 for the box and I used half of it). You might want to take a look at what I did for my end vise - pipe clamps. And dog holes???? I use t-tracks. Take a look at my bench. If you don't like it as a whole, you might find a piece of it that you can use. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/ve...-unique-40361/
What the duce Bernie. Send him to your published article too.

Bet that bamboo is rock hard.

Al

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post #29 of 29 Old 10-28-2013, 11:27 AM
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I appreciate the compliment Al... The article is simply a "tip" in the current ShopNotes magazine that won me the PC 450C router (nice little router) - it points out the versatility of the t-tracks. But the big pay-off of my bench is the use of it. I know lots of folks like their impressive looking benches which have served woodworkers very well for centuries... but the use of t-tracks is a step forward. I just finished cutting a whole bunch of blind dados for a window seat I'm building using the method described in my bench post and I'm amazed at how easy it was and how accurate they are. And the bamboo flooring is great for finishing - easy clean up for glue squeeze out and spilled paint or stains.

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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