So I'm building a router table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-30-2020, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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So I'm building a router table

So far I have a 36"x24" 3/4" mdf top with 3/4" x1/2" mitered w/o edges and I am adding 1 1/2"x3/4" white oak (w/o)framing support underneath to help mitigate the effects of moisture in the atmosphere as well as support the legs which I plan to make foldable so the whole thing can be stashed out of the way when not in use. I'm very limited on floor space so it pretty much has to be a benchtop version. I plan to make the legs at a slight angle, but the only real question is what hinges would be suggested? The support underneath are 3/4" stock as will be the legs themselves. I'd like to have a locking bar for the legs, but I think the angles to angle outward slightly should suffice .. Any suggestions I am probably overlooking?

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post #2 of 14 Old 06-30-2020, 12:12 PM
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If you feel that atmospheric moisture might be a problem mdf distortion will not be stopped by bracing. I'd seal the mdf with an oil based polyurethane. 24" X 36" is a big bench top model. Could you make it so that one edge is hinged to a wall so it could be folded down when not in use? Also, to mitigate any sagging from the weight of your router put some of your underside close to the center of the top.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-30-2020, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allpurpose View Post
I'm very limited on floor space so it pretty much has to be a benchtop version.
my bench top router table stores in 3/4" space and i've used the router table many times
when a fence is required i just clamp a fence on with sawdust collection to the shop vac
also made a router box with vac port if i'm pulling chips down
here is a thread in this forum with photosuckit pics, you'll get the idea though https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/...cle-jig-47925/
the one time i was routing heavy wood i just jammed a 2x2 leg under the far end

i made a longworth chuck last summer, just drilled a hole for the pivot in the table
fence clamped in place with vac port
as basic as it gets. 11x24 melamine shelf board
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-30-2020, 02:49 PM
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fwiw - a 2nd on the poly. I have multiple MDF "big flat things" which I used polyurethane to seal and they have been years long stable in my shop which runs -30% RH in winter to 50-60% RH in summer.



not many with the edge banded - the raw edge MDF I gave a good double soaking.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Ehh..I settled on a couple of piano hinges minus the piano. I figure a piano wouldn't be much use with a router. (deluxe super duper high gloss real imitation chrome!.. duper being the operative word here. )
Now, about sealing the top..I might just go poly if I can get a day without a gazillion flying insects. How would water based sealant do on MDF? It seems to dry a whole lot quicker. Poly here is like inviting every bug in a 20 state area to come die on it..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?

Last edited by allpurpose; 07-02-2020 at 09:19 AM.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 10:05 AM
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You really want the cabinet to support the router vs the table top. Too much span in a tabletop with weight can cause an issue later.. Better to have the cabinet close to the router this way the cabinet supports the top,which supports the router.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 10:42 AM
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One layer of MDF is not going to work. The key to a router top is rigidity and support. This is achieved by making a thick top, laminated on both sides with countertop type material (the thick stuff) and good support on either side of the router.

Since you need something portable, you can add a couple healthy supports underneath, like 2x4's.

Rebel has an excellent example to show you need good support on either side of the router.
@rebel, that's quite a set up, how do you handle the fences?

Robert

Last edited by DrRobert; 07-02-2020 at 10:45 AM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
You really want the cabinet to support the router vs the table top. Too much span in a tabletop with weight can cause an issue later.. Better to have the cabinet close to the router this way the cabinet supports the top,which supports the router.
Nice cabinet you have there. I like it. That would be fine example to follow if he were building a cabinet.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobert View Post
One layer of MDF is not going to work. The key to a router top is rigidity and support. This is achieved by making a thick top, laminated on both sides with countertop type material (the thick stuff) and good support on either side of the router.

Since you need something portable, you can add a couple healthy supports underneath, like 2x4's.

Rebel has an excellent example to show you need good support on either side of the router.
@rebel, that's quite a set up, how do you handle the fences?
The fences are split. It's a dedicated door making router table.there is about a 1/4 of adjustment at the fence but there running off the bearings...
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Last edited by Rebelwork; 07-02-2020 at 11:08 AM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 11:13 AM
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This one is more traditional, yet has supports next to the router. This had DC at the top and a hole will be put in soon at the bottom to catch dust down under the router. I also want good air flow to the router as it gets hot....
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allpurpose View Post
Ehh..I settled on a couple of piano hinges minus the piano. I figure a piano wouldn't be much use with a router. (deluxe super duper high gloss real imitation chrome!.. duper being the operative word here. )
Now, about sealing the top..I might just go poly if I can get a day without a gazillion flying insects. How would water based sealant do on MDF? It seems to dry a whole lot quicker. Poly here is like inviting every bug in a 20 state area to come die on it..
If applying poly will be a problem considered tempered hardboard on top of the mdf. Also, as others have said, 1 sheet of mdf won't be enough and might sag from the weight of the router and your dimensions. If you want to keep it as thin as possible consider a torsion box design.
Normal humidity levels shouldn't adversely affect the mdf.
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
The fences are split. It's a dedicated door making router table.there is about a 1/4 of adjustment at the fence but there running off the bearings...

I really like that design. Especially the 3 way dust collection with integral home made gates.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave H
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-02-2020, 07:05 PM
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One of my router tables is hinged to the back side of my miter saw table. It folds down. I just used some strap hinges. That particular stand has 3 drawers in the front, fold down wings on the sides also strap hinges and the back side has a router table. I am also limited with space. My other router table is a craftsman cast router table extension wing on my table saw.


Good luck with your build.
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-03-2020, 09:16 AM
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[QUO4TE=furnacefighter15;2119791]I really like that design. Especially the 3 way dust collection with integral home made gates.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

The credit goes to Woodtec. I needed shapers for my cabinet shop but could not afford and space was limited in a 600 sqft shop. So I stole the ideal and already had the routers. Got it done but it sites idle now....You note I used the longer sections of the table vs the shorter of the Woodtec....
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Last edited by Rebelwork; 07-03-2020 at 09:20 AM.
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