Sink Base False Drawer Front - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Sink Base False Drawer Front

Hey guys,

Just wondered if there is a preferred method for attaching a false drawer front to a sink base cabinet. What do you all generally do?

BTW I should say these are face frame cabinets. The false front would need to attach somehow to the face frame I guess.

Thanks

Last edited by Tom5151; 01-26-2011 at 03:44 PM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:03 PM
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If the front is directly in front of the sink, you can add a strip on the back of the panel to ride on the cross rail under the false front. This would align the height of it.

For the back, I find the easiest way was to cut two strips of wood about 1" wide, and long enough to lap both cross rails (top/bottom behind the false front). Put a 2" screw through the strips at the middle all the way through. Then use that strip screwed into the back of the false front at about 4" from each end. When the strip pulls up close it will make contact with the back of the face frame. And continued turning will tighten the false front to the face frame.

The false front can be easily removed by just unturning the two strips of wood by hand.


.








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post #3 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
If the front is directly in front of the sink, you can add a strip on the back of the panel to ride on the cross rail under the false front. This would align the height of it.

For the back, I find the easiest way was to cut two strips of wood about 1" wide, and long enough to lap both cross rails (top/bottom behind the false front). Put a 2" screw through the strips at the middle all the way through. Then use that strip screwed into the back of the false front at about 4" from each end. When the strip pulls up close it will make contact with the back of the face frame. And continued turning will tighten the false front to the face frame.

The false front can be easily removed by just unturning the two strips of wood by hand.


.










.
Thank you sir. I think I got it. Without seeing it I think I can picture it. So my opening is 5 inches high by 32 inches wide. I'll need to make the strips about 7 inches long or so, so that they lap over the back faces of the face frame by about an inch. Correct? The panel itself is 33 inches long so would it be necessary to add a third strip in the middle? My only concern is whether a 3/4 inch thick strip will interere with the sink. I think there should be enough room. I guess i can always wait until they measure for sink placement and use the appropriate thickness for the strip.
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:22 PM
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If you have the room, these are cool.

http://www.kitchensource.com/cabinet...v-sinktray.htm

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #5 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom5151 View Post
Thank you sir. I think I got it. Without seeing it I think I can picture it. So my opening is 5 inches high by 32 inches wide. I'll need to make the strips about 7 inches long or so, so that they lap over the back faces of the face frame by about an inch. Correct? The panel itself is 33 inches long so would it be necessary to add a third strip in the middle? My only concern is whether a 3/4 inch thick strip will interere with the sink. I think there should be enough room. I guess i can always wait until they measure for sink placement and use the appropriate thickness for the strip.

No, you don't need a third strip across the middle. The strips screw into the back of the false front and pull up to the top and bottom cross rail. When they tighten the top and bottom rail are enough to hold.










.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
No, you don't need a third strip across the middle. The strips screw into the back of the false front and pull up to the top and bottom cross rail. When they tighten the top and bottom rail are enough to hold.













.
Sounds good.

One other question. Should I attach the false front so that it is in direct contact with the face frame or would it be better to put those little "bumpers" on the back side of the false front so that there is about 1/8 of an inch gap or so? If I the false front comes in direct contact with the face frame then the front surface of the doors and the front surface of the false front won't be in the same exact plane. Not sure if that is acceptable practice or not.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom5151 View Post
Sounds good.

One other question. Should I attach the false front so that it is in direct contact with the face frame or would it be better to put those little "bumpers" on the back side of the false front so that there is about 1/8 of an inch gap or so? If I the false front comes in direct contact with the face frame then the front surface of the doors and the front surface of the false front won't be in the same exact plane. Not sure if that is acceptable practice or not.

You could add those.










.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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You could add those.













.
Cool. Probabaly going to end up being an aestheic choice made by the wife.

Thanks for all of your help. I am getting quite an education on my first cabinet project. Perhaps I should have started with a smaller project than 11 cabinets. But hey, gotta learn sometime I guess.
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-26-2011, 11:15 PM
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I like these, but they are probably overkill. They are $.90 per pair. You have to have an account to see prices.
http://www.holdahlcompany.com/product-170-6139.html
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