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post #1 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Shop Organization

I'm drawing some plans for cabinets to be incorporated into a workbench and miter saw station along one wall of the garage.
Should I make the bench true to the floor or level?
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 07:32 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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neither ....

I'd make the legs all the same length and use shims to level it out. You always want any work surfaces level so you can use them as supports. Off kilter surfaces would drive me nuts.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 07:53 PM
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I half to agree with Woodnthings....Look forward to see your project.
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post #4 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 08:34 PM
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I do not see that it matters an Iota. Unless the floor is quite a bit off level. I have never tried to level anything in my shop whether it be tool, table or bench.

George
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post #5 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 08:43 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Good for you ...

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Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
I do not see that it matters an Iota. Unless the floor is quite a bit off level. I have never tried to level anything in my shop whether it be tool, table or bench.

George
I think I saw one of your projects on the internet ....


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 09:37 PM
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I put leveling feet on my workbench when I built it, but have yet to use them. I know my shop floor is not level, it has 1/2" cracks in the concrete floor where the slab has settled since being poured in the 1930s.

I made myself crazy getting my miter saw bench level, because I thought it mattered, it turns out that flat is way more important than level.

<Chas>
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post #7 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 01:26 AM
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Flat is what matters the most! I located my 24' X 24' workshop under my NH barn. It was a 1/2 dirt crawl space at best 15 years ago. Because of my arthritis, I knew I needed a wooden floor (concrete kills me). While digging out my shop, I ran into some serious NH granite. My shop is now shorter then planned and has a few high spots in the floor (lack of ceiling height makes it easier to heat). So my floor isn't level and even has a few bouncy sections...

Here is what I've learned over the past few years re-arranging my shop lay-out while accumulating more tools and reconfigureing the layout.

Leveling a work surface isn't as important as stabilizing the surface especially when dealing with a workbench. Using a workbench means you will be applying pressure in all directions and you just don't want it walking around on you. Just make sure it settles flat!

A few of my tools are in bouncy areas but are still functional. These are tools with limited work surfaces... so the whole tool bounces a bit - but the work tables bounce with the tool. My bandsaw is positioned in such a place and I can see it tilt left or right a bit as I walk by it... but when I'm using it, I'm focused on the work piece sitting flat on the table in relation to the blade. I can't detect any movement...

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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post #8 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 01:35 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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my shop door.....

My floor is flat but my door isn't What should I do? Should I level my floor or just fix the door?




Or just wait for the next earthquake and the ground to settle?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 08:33 AM
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As long as its not so off level that tools roll away, I don't see how it makes much difference.

~Mark

I confuse myself daily, keeps life interesting and exciting.
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post #10 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 09:05 AM
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Over the years shops come and go, and you will want to rearrange the shop now and then. But the cabinets you build will last forever. Many of mine are 30+ years old now.

When I need a perfectly flat and level surface, it is leveled in place.
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post #11 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 09:21 AM
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It doesn't need to be level but with leveling feet it's so cheap and easy why not do it? Agree 1000%...flat is most important.
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post #12 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 09:22 AM
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Btw....beautiful shop Tom.
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post #13 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 12:35 PM
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Flat, level, true, .... ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LVWood View Post
I'm drawing some plans for cabinets to be incorporated into a workbench and miter saw station along one wall of the garage.
Should I make the bench true to the floor or level?
There are lots of replies about making it flat, which was not the question. Obviously you want a"flat" bench top.
So the question was whether to make the bench "true to the floor" meaning all legs are equal, since you wouldn't want 4 legs of all different lengths. so, I posted above No. 2, make the legs the same length. Now the bench is "true to the floor" but it may not be level.

The next question is whether to make it "level" which does not mean "flat". I would make all the legs the same length and THEN level it out with a.... wait .... a level! A bench that is not level will throw off your visual ability to judge verticals, since every thing will look crooked, not plumb. PITA. Round things like chisels, pencils, dowels, etc.will tend to roll off also.

It will not allow you to use spacer blocks to support workpieces, like an outfeed table, since they will rock if your sawtable is level and the bench is not. If every tool in the shop is not level, you won't enjoy working there... trust me. Whether you can make it "dead level" is not needed, it just should be as level as you can make it.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-29-2016 at 12:45 PM.
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post #14 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, you nailed it woodnthings and you make a good point for level.
Whether it was true or level it was going to be as flat as I can make it, but your point about level makes sense.
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post #15 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 04:05 PM
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Here are my leveling feet that I used on my workbench. I have it fairly level and just a tad short of the table saw so it is used as an outfeed table, assembly bench and general beat-on-it work bench.

5/8's inch bolts, nuts and washers.
Double nuts are glued (with Gorilla Glue) into the holes that have been bored and chiseled out to hex shape. There is no play and the bench is rock solid.

Hope this helps.
Mike
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post #16 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 05:24 PM
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I opted for level, hanging from the wall on cleats. Doesn't even touch the floor (which is very, very uneven, btw)...
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
There are lots of replies about making it flat, which was not the question. Obviously you want a"flat" bench top.
So the question was whether to make the bench "true to the floor" meaning all legs are equal, since you wouldn't want 4 legs of all different lengths. so, I posted above No. 2, make the legs the same length. Now the bench is "true to the floor" but it may not be level.

The next question is whether to make it "level" which does not mean "flat". I would make all the legs the same length and THEN level it out with a.... wait .... a level! A bench that is not level will throw off your visual ability to judge verticals, since every thing will look crooked, not plumb. PITA. Round things like chisels, pencils, dowels, etc.will tend to roll off also.

It will not allow you to use spacer blocks to support workpieces, like an outfeed table, since they will rock if your sawtable is level and the bench is not. If every tool in the shop is not level, you won't enjoy working there... trust me. Whether you can make it "dead level" is not needed, it just should be as level as you can make it.
Exactly! It would drive me insane if my tools and tables were't level (yeah I know, it'd be a short drive). I am a craftsman by trade. Spent the better part of my career building flat, level square and plumb. Have spent the rest of my career teaching and demanding the same from my employees.

After rough leveling, I use a marble to tweak in the bench top. Using a couple of adjustable leveler designs outlined by a few others above, it is quite easy to keep a marble in place.

It is simply the mark of a true craftsman to insure flat, level, square and plumb.

Another $000,000,000.02 worth of advice,
Mark
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post #18 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
My floor is flat but my door isn't What should I do? Should I level my floor or just fix the door?




Or just wait for the next earthquake and the ground to settle?
You don't fix anything that a self closing door idiot
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post #19 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 07:59 PM
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Who you callin' an idiot?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelwork View Post
You don't fix anything that a self closing door idiot

Let's take apart your reply:

You .... don't fix anything.....that('s) a self closing door.... Idiot.

Is this what you wanted to say? Ya got me.
Besides that ain't my door, but I like it.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #20 of 26 Old 01-29-2016, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Let's take apart your reply:

You .... don't fix anything.....that('s) a self closing door.... Idiot.

Is this what you wanted to say? Ya got me.
Besides that ain't my door, but I like it.
I know I'm a high school drop out, but don't rub it in
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