Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: corvallis, Oregon
I have never done it that way and have no firsthand experience as to its durability. What I will tell you is that, as a furniture and cabinet maker for nearly 30 years, I have done my share of replacing or repairing broken doors. Most of the time, the issue centers on the torque which is applied to the rail and stile joints closest to the hinges. And invariably, these breaks occur with joints made with the rail and stile bits, using 3/8" long stub tenons. Theoretically, you would think that these are a good joint. In reality, they are mediocre. Considering the torque applied when opening and closing them hundreds or thousands of times, that 3/8" tenon has its work cut out.
So, my point in this is that you need to consider the torque which will be put on the joint. Granted, when you open a cabinet door, it does not feel like much at all. But it has to endure a lot of repetition, and occasional hard closures. Also consider the hinges you are using. If the hinges have a spring action which closes the door firmly or with a bang, as many of them did 40-60 years ago, they have a much greater torque on those R and S joints. A softer closing hinge action may be easier on the joints.
This is not exactly an answer to your query, but lacking first hand experience with pocket jointed door construction, It's the only useful information I can offer on the subject.