Setting Up A New Shop - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 36 Old 07-21-2020, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. we are on the same page with table heights. My table saw was always the hub of my shop. All of my benches and power tools tables were set up on that basis. Actually, 1/8" lower than the table saw top. Dont want anything coming off the table saw to catch an edge of an adjoining table.
I am also big on wheels. Was in Harbor Freight yesterday and I am member of ITC. They had dollies 12" x 18" rated 1000 pound load for $7.99 each with ITC card. I bought 2 of them just for the wheels - all swivel.

I am hoping to get my lights hung today. Then I could build shelves and take all the stuff off the floor.

I removed the 5th wheel hitch so I can carry plywood. Now that its out, a storm in the gulf is slightly possible. That means - put the hitch. It was too heavy for me to remove by myself, so i had to disasssemble it.

if I buy a couple pof sheets and the storm is emminant, I will just have to leave them propped up and they will probably warp. Dont have a table to set them on and might not have time to do that Juyst gotta keep checking the weather.

I hate cutting ply on saw horses with a circ saw, but will have to get used to it for a while. cant wait for the table saw to arrive in a month or so, if that is not delayed.

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post #22 of 36 Old 07-21-2020, 06:38 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Make a radial arm saw support table!

You haven't mentioned a RAS in your plans, BUT I wouldn't have a shop without one.
I've owned at least one for more than 40 years I purchased my first one off the for sale board at work for $45.00. I still have it and it still works great. When building a garage addition years back, I set up a 16 ft long table around my RAS so I could cut studs to length accurately and easily and I could rip plywood sheets in half easily by myself because of the long support. This was great for making shelving and spacers for the headers over the garage doors. I didn't have a portable table saw for use out doors, so the RAS was perfect.I just threw a cover over the setup in the chance of rain.


I thought your long, narrow shop would be a perfect place for the same type of setup. This video shows rolling storage benches that store underneath the RAS support table and that would be perfect for your application:
https://youtu.be/pxQw-XD4GZI?t=314



There are several such setups on You Tube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...radial+arm+saw

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #23 of 36 Old 07-21-2020, 08:40 AM
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Tony, at our age it is hard at least for me to pick up a full sheet of 3/4 plywood to rip on a table saw. When I was working by myself in a shop years back, I made a platform with 4 swivel gurney wheels. I chose those because they were large and would roll over stuff on the floor.

I mounted an "A" frame on the platform that was about an inch lower than my table saw. I had a rack where I could lay all my plywood flat. I would roll my "A" framed deal to the truck and load all my plywood in to it, then roll it over to the rack and push the plywood into the rack.

When I got ready to rip some plywood on my table saw, I would use my roll around, pull a sheet off the rack onto the roll around, roll up my table saw set the end of the plywood on the edge of the table saw then lift the plywood off the roll around and kick it forward against the table saw so I could rip the sheet of plywood. It worked great for me.
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post #24 of 36 Old 07-21-2020, 10:23 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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A helpful tool for breaking down sheet goods

If you need to rip 4 X 8 sheet goods a long edge clamp will be useful:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-10...9681/302346667
It comes in two sections, so also handy for crosscuts on the 48" width.

In order to set your clamp accurately you will need two marks at exactly the same distance in from the edge. This adjustable clamp allows you to make those marks and then to check your clamp setting afterwards:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-4...9-48/100653520


A shorter 24" version has multiple holes built in for either a drywall knife OR your pencil mark, but it's not adjustable:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-...-202911590-_-N

An improvement to the RAS workstation posted above would be these T tracks and the Kreg stop system:

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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-21-2020 at 10:42 AM.
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post #25 of 36 Old 07-21-2020, 03:59 PM
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The guy in the video has some pretty good organizing techniques. I dig the table under the table, and the tilt deck for easy access. Very clever.

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post #26 of 36 Old 07-22-2020, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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@BigJim

I have a very similar idea.
my table saw height will be 35". My folded down tailgate on truck is 39 Inches.
I want to build a 35" tall rolling table with the fold down wheels. With the wheels up it will be taller than my table saw. I can roll it out to the truck, retract the wheels so it doesnt roll under the tailgate. the the drop from the truck is only 4" - no biggie.
I can then load ply and whatever on the rolling table and drop the wheels down.
Now I have 2 choices................I can roll the cart up to the table saw and just start cutting away or leave the wheels down, which will have the rolling table top higher than my saw top and roll down a narrow path between my work bench and table saw and into the rear of the shop.
This rolling cart will be only 2 1/2' wide so too narrow to become my table saw outfeed table, but wide enough that ply sitting on top will not sag over the sides.
So that is my current plan - I think

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post #27 of 36 Old 07-22-2020, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Let There Be Light.

Yesterday was an interesting day.
EmpSoldier needed hardwood and I needed lights.
He had never been to a hardwood supplier before and i am not tall enough to reach the roof-line, even with a step stool.
He lives 2 hours from the hardwood place and I live 1 hour away in a different direction. So we met there.
We dilly-dallied around in the place for a long while and he got to learn the pricing structure. he bought some maple and a sheet of Baltic Birch plywood. Then we went to my shop.

He is a pretty tall guy and his reach was perfect.
I bought eight 4' long LED Light Strips from Harbor Freight They are impressively bright - on sale for around 19 bucks each. We mounted all but one.

I think they draw 1.3 amps each or something like that. i cant afford the power drain, so i will wire them up in 3 sections. The main section being above the table saw in the entrance. More than adequate light there. If I need more light in the mid section and rear, I will be able to light them on separate switches.

Anyway, lights are up and wiring - not so pretty.

Two woodworkers on this forum working together.

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Last edited by Tony B; 07-22-2020 at 08:33 AM.
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post #28 of 36 Old 07-22-2020, 10:35 AM
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Good deal, sounds like a good day to me.

I like your idea with loading and unloading, We have to do what we have to do to get things done sometimes.

http://www.diychatroom.com/

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post #29 of 36 Old 07-22-2020, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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I was planning to build the shelf tomorrow but I might have to reassemble my 5th wheel hitch instead.
It is in several pieces so I could get it out of the p/u bed. That was only a few days ago. I will put it back in truck for hurricane season. didn't even get to use the empty bed to haul anything.

I the hitch is lower than the sides and tailgate but not by much. Once I get it back in the truck, I will measure.
I was thinking, thats the part that gets me in trouble. If I can have at least 6" above the top of the hitch to the bed sides...............I could build 4 boxes just a tad higher than the hitch plate and put 2 forward of the hitch and 2 rear of the hitch. Then.............I could slide a few pieces of ply on top of the box tops and haul them home on a bump free ride. A bump free ride in Texas? I dont know. Wont know until the hitch is back in place. Might not be enough clearance.

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post #30 of 36 Old 07-23-2020, 08:54 AM
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Something you have not talked about that should be the first thing you bought, and that is an AC unit. That place looks more like an oven than a shop. Sorry but I don't see how you can work in there.

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #31 of 36 Old 07-23-2020, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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An AC unit would be absolutely useless in a sheet steel building with no insulation. Also there are lots of spaces up high that are slightly open to the adjacent units. I tried aiming the rear fan high and the front fan low. The theory is the the hot air high up would be blown out and the cooler 95* air with high humidity will be blown in to cool off the place. That didnt work because as I blow the upper hot air out, more comes in from te adjoining bays.
It's uncomfortable after around 12 noon but some of us are tougher than others. I only get overheated when I stop working, crazy as it sounds. While working, I am absorbed in my efforts and oblivious to the temp.
I worked outdoors in 100+ temps just a few weeks back. Cutting and clearing trails in the hot wooded areas. I'm almost 74, my SO is 80 and she was there with me. She forces me to take breaks and that screws up my mind set. That is when I call it quits.
When I had commercial shops, I always had a showroom that was air conditioned even if I had to build it myself.
Right now, I am just working from around 7AM to noon.

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post #32 of 36 Old 07-23-2020, 07:03 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Is the unit in between others?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
Something you have not talked about that should be the first thing you bought, and that is an AC unit. That place looks more like an oven than a shop. Sorry but I don't see how you can work in there.

If Tony's unit in between two other the roof is the biggest direct heat gain source. Not that it won't get hot, but it will be less hot hen if exposed on one or more sides. Also depends whether the door faces South or West. North would be best. I used a radiant heat barrier called Aluma-Foil under my sheathing to reflect the heat right back up.
It's just aluminum foil glued to some stiff paper on both sides. When I couldn't find it any longer I made my own. I used 1" white foam in 24" X 48" piece from H/D and used spray glue to attach Reynolds Wrap on both sides. That was easier to manage the the paper foil and just fit between the rafters. after being cut to size. Then the insulation was installed below that. Anything you can do to add a reflective barrier and an air space between the sheet metal and your work space will help. The aluminum colored tarps may work..... I donno? I realize it's a rental unit, so no permanent solutions are possible, but foam panels pressed in place would be easily removable.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #33 of 36 Old 07-23-2020, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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I had a choice of morning sun or afternoon sun. I took the afternoon sun. that way in the morning, the shop will be at it's coolest. Slightly after 12 Noon, the shadow in front of my doors starts to disappear and shortly thereafter, the sun shines in.
As far as insulation, that is out of the question. i hadn't planned on buying everything new. Just cant fins a decent bargains. My original 2 -$3K budget is now past 6 kilobucks and still bleeding.
If it were a commercial or even slightly commercial, the insulation would be in.
I generally dont work past 1PM and most of the time, I ain't working. I'm out shopping for stuff.

Anyway, with the storms coming, I put the 5th wheel hitch back again. Those sections are heavy.
I didn't really notice it when taking it apart but putting it back, the last piece is held in by 2 large pins. This piece in particular takes up a lot of air space. Remove and reinstall in less that 20 seconds each way. So if I did JUST that, my idea with the boxes around it to make a flat surface will work out fine. When the time comes, it's just a matter of what i feel like doing at that particular moment - the boxes or the gantry. With the gantry, I can remove the the entire hitch in one piece without any tools at all.
The hitch looks like a spider. There are 4 factory holes in the truck bed and the parts or the hitch that drop into it are called 'pucks'. each of the 4 legs has a swing away piece which releases the puck from the hole. Then just lift out. At my age, it just aint gonna happen.

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post #34 of 36 Old 07-27-2020, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
I have 20A in the self storage unit and that should be enough to run one machine at a time. Then I will have to put the lights, exhaust fans, fridge, etc on the generator.
I would prefer the ancillary stuff on the wall switch and the machines on the generator. Just to be sure, I sent a request to tech support at Laguna. If they say its OK, then I will have their say so on paper.
However, I do appreciate your input and you may have just saved me a lot of aggravation and money.
Thanks again for the heads-up.
Don't forget Tony, when you're running most pieces of equipment you will probably need to have a dust control system running and pulling amps, even if it's only a shop vac.

Bill F.
post #35 of 36 Old 07-27-2020, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I have considered that. It seems like most dust collection systems can eat all 20 amps.
I will try to use a smaller vac and in localized areas. Sanding operations seem to be the biggest offender.

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post #36 of 36 Old 07-29-2020, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Today I am still working on the electric and lights.
Not allowed to install any form of permanent wiring but can get creative with extension cords.
Last week, Baserock Love from this forum put up the lights as I assisted. He is way taller than me. Anyway, the objective was to just get them up and that he did. Under my direction, get 'em up.

I wish I had taken a photo. Eight 4' LED strips, that's 8 cords hanging plus another bunch of cords plugging together, plus the ropes and chains they are hanging from plus additional 8 hanging ropes to help tie back some of the cords plus a bunch of extension cords with outlets on them. It was comical looking.

So yesterday and today, I spent my usual 4 to 5 hours at the shop making it all look neat, or as neat as possible. The lights are now higher and tied higher to the rafters. Broken into 3 sections on switches. This could not have been possible without his help. The additional hanging ropes he put up, helped hold the wires in place so that I could secure them properly, or as proper as it can get. Thanks again to Collin. Without his help, I wouldn't have been able to do this

Hopefully, tomorrow, I will be able to finish up the rest of it and finish the actual job when the table saw, band saw and planer show up. In the mean time, I will begin making some form of control panel to allow me to switch certain individual tools onto the main 20 amp outlet or my small
Honda 2K generator by just flipping a switch.

No real woodworking yet. I dont count the saw horses and the Tony B shop stool.
And I'm still spending money like I am earning it. My original plan was to buy almost everything 'used'. That didn't happen. So far, everything is new except for the reconditioned router which is essentially new.

If I remember, tomorrow I will take pics of the lighting and the shelf.
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Last edited by Tony B; 07-29-2020 at 03:43 PM.
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