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Sears Radial 100

4K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  FrankC 
#1 ·
Hello all.
I am Bryan Martin, in Glendale Az.
I need some direction if anyone can help.
I was gifted this great saw from a man in Scottsdale and i would love to get it to where i can use it for small projects. When it belonged to his son, he tore the jig up to build a fresh one. There is no guide jig and I am asking if anyone knows anyone in this state that may be able to build one for me?
Thank you very much,
Bryan
 
#2 · (Edited)
#5 ·
If you own a radial arm saw, then every once in a while you will need to make a new table and fence for it to replace the cut-up, worn-out old one. That is a normal part of owning a radial arm saw.

Radial arm saws are wonderful, versatile tools, but they are also very dangerous. Be sure you learn everything you can about radial arm saw safety, setup, care, and proper use before you start using it.

Many people learn from YouTube, which is fine. Just be aware that anybody can post a YouTube video. There are many examples of horrible safety violations that occur in YouTube how-to demonstrations by "expert woodworkers", where the only thing that prevented a severe on-screen injury was sheer dumb luck.
 
#6 ·
The manual I linked to has a drawing of the parts that make up the table, is it just the three rear parts that are missing or is it the entire table?

This is pretty well the defacto arrangement of any radial arm saw, designed to give flexibility for the different cuts the saw is capable of making.

Contrary to what you may read on the internet none of the three loose parts are attached to each other, they just drop into place configured as needed and held there by the clamps.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I never liked the 3 piece factory table .....

I found the 3 separate pieces to be a pain to clamp in place and the clamps left a lot to be desired. My table evolved into a single sheet of 3/4" plywood that extends and additional 30" or so to the left of the blade. The fence is screwed to the top leaving space between them for the blade to cut into it without striking and screws. The fence is aligned to the blade using a framing square as shown in this photo.
It is first held down with a single screw on one end, then aligned and clamped down. Then the second screw is put in place and additional screws are place on either side of the blade, as needed. Finally, the blade is lower to 1/8" into the table and the first cut is made while the saw is turned on. Now you will be assured that all your cross cuts are a perfect 90 degrees and you can cut much longer stock than with the standard 3 piece table.




The dust collection box with the light on top, gets a lot of the sawdust thrown forward and the smaller hose gets almost all the rest for an essentially dust free system. This is the best system I have come up with after 40 years + of having RAS. :smile2:
 
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#8 ·
Even though your saw was designed to do multiple types of cuts, it works best for cross cutting so many, including myself like to leave the arm set at 90 degrees once it is dialed in to make accurate cuts.

If that is how you wish to proceed then the stock table configuration is not necessary, a simple fence at the back as suggested will be sufficient.

Before I acquired a sliding miter saw I made up a couple jigs to make angled cuts which is covered here:
http://sawdustmaking.com/Radial Arm Saws/radial_arm_saws.html
 
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