Saw table fence question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Saw table fence question

How do I determine which one will fit? How do I measure?
http://www.incrementaltools.com/Tabl...Fences_s/3.htm


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post #2 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 07:31 PM
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Either one will fit. The difference between the two is the ripping capacity which is increased by the length of the rails. The 32 inch rip capacity will be sufficient 99% of the time. The 92 inch rails for the 52 inch model require a lot of room, if space is at a premium buy the 32 inch. If you have a large workroom where you have plenty of space, get what you want.

If you look at the picture of the 52 inch model you will see that the mounting bracket is near the middle of the rail. That is how you use it the 99% of the time. When you need more then 32 inches, you loosen the black knobs and slide the mounting bracket to the end of the rails, but once there, you canít rip anything less then 20 inches. You have to slide it back closer to the blade. There are positive stops which make the movement back and forth accurate so you wonít have to recheck distance to blade.

The Incra rails have extremely flexible mounting, drilling will NOT be required.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #3 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Either one will fit. The difference between the two is the ripping capacity which is increased by the length of the rails. The 32 inch rip capacity will be sufficient 99% of the time. The 92 inch rails for the 52 inch model require a lot of room, if space is at a premium buy the 32 inch. If you have a large workroom where you have plenty of space, get what you want.

If you look at the picture of the 52 inch model you will see that the mounting bracket is near the middle of the rail. That is how you use it the 99% of the time. When you need more then 32 inches, you loosen the black knobs and slide the mounting bracket to the end of the rails, but once there, you canít rip anything less then 20 inches. You have to slide it back closer to the blade. There are positive stops which make the movement back and forth accurate so you wonít have to recheck distance to blade.

The Incra rails have extremely flexible mounting, drilling will NOT be required.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


Awesome thank you very much!!!! I have an old cast iron craftsman table saw and want to improve the fence/cuts.



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post #4 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 08:57 PM
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Just so's you know ......

You want to put a $400.00 fence on a $100.00 saw? You will not get a 400% improvement in cutting accuracy, just my opinion. There are cheaper aftermarket fences that would be equally accurate. Look on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Vega-U26-Tabl...able+saw+fence

I don't know anything about the fence you have at present, but unless it's loose as a goose and won't align parallel to the blade and miter slots when locked down each time, you may just need to adjust that one properly.... I donno?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-19-2018 at 09:01 PM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You want to put a $400.00 fence on a $100.00 saw? You will not get a 400% improvement in cutting accuracy, just my opinion. There are cheaper aftermarket fences that would be equally accurate. Look on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Vega-U26-Tabl...able+saw+fence

I don't know anything about the fence you have at present, but unless it's loose as a goose and won't align parallel to the blade and miter slots when locked down each time, you may just need to adjust that one properly.... I donno?


You are correct itís old but still works just looking to improve it and the fence is not loose just was seeing if I can improve it not just the fence but the saw in general.


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post #6 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 09:28 PM
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Saw table fence question

The Incra fence works unlike any other fence and is far more accurate then any fence you are familiar with. Besides that, all cuts are repeatable, meaning if you take a cut, move the fence, then repeat your first cut, or any other cut, it will be exactly the same.

Because of the features of the Incra fence, some cuts require a different thinking on how to use a table saw fence. For example, if you want to rip a thin piece of wood, say 1/8 inch or less, there are two ways that all of you would do it. One, would be to try ripping it between fence and blade. A gripper has 1/8 inch leg available to do that.

Others would rig up a thin rip gauge, using the miter track opposite the fence. That works ok if you make a lot of cuts the same width, but dialing in an exact width requires some trial and error.

With an Incra fence, you take a wide board, the wider the safer. Set the fence to square up and rip the board to the nearest 1/32 inch. Subtract the width of your blade kerf, and the width of your desired slice (down to 1/32 of an inch thick) from the current ruler reading and reset the fence. Run the board through the saw and the desired slice falls off the outside. No need to get your fingers near the blade.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.

Last edited by Terry Q; 06-19-2018 at 09:45 PM.
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post #7 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Q View Post
The Incra fence works unlike any other fence and is far more accurate then any fence you are familiar with. Besides that, all cuts are repeatable, meaning if you take a cut, move the fence, then repeat your first cut, or any other cut, it will be exactly the same.



In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


Thank you!


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post #8 of 17 Old 06-19-2018, 09:44 PM
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Based on 50 years of owning Craftsman table saws ....

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You are correct itís old but still works just looking to improve it and the fence is not loose just was seeing if I can improve it not just the fence but the saw in general.


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My first Craftsman table saw was purchased in 1960, high school graduation gift money. I've owned 45 other since then, still have 4 of them which work just fine. The fences have been replaced because "The fence is the heart of the table saw". Not the motor, not the blade, but the fence. WHY? Because it is the most used control/device on the table saw, which is used primarily for ripping, hence it's called a "rip fence".

There was a period where Craftsman made crappy fences that locked on the both ends of table rather than on the front rail as the newer ones do. The Biesemeyer is the workhorse of the industry when it comes to fences, virtually indestructible and as accurate as you'll ever need. Granted, it won't do things an Incra will, but those operations are very advanced. FYI, I own 2 Biesemeyer fences on 2 different table saw and love them. My other fences are Delta Unifences and I like them a lot also. They are completely different in design with the exception they lock entirely on the front rail. They can be adjusted easily to align parallel with the miter slots which is the "reference standard" on the table saw, because they never change position and has no means of adjustment. like the trunnions or then fence.

If you want to "improve" that saw, by all means get the best fence you can afford, because that is about the only thing that matters. A bigger HP motor, may help if you are pushing the limits of cutting depth. A better belt and steel pulleys will reduce vibration. An outfeed table is the single most important safety accessory you acn ever add to a table saw, again my opinion. WHY? Because it supports the workpiece and the cut off after making the cut, so there is no need for you to reach around or over a spinning blade endangering your self trying to catch them before they fall to the floor. That is a big NO-NO!

A splitter or riving knife probably came with the saw and is part of the blade guard ion some saws, like my older Craftsman 12" ones. A splitter is another very important safety device that will all but prevent kickbacks. If you have one put it on the saw. I removed mine for many years because the blade cover was always in the way and I couldn't deal with it. Then after a few kickbacks. I drilled out the plastic cover and anti-kickback pawls and just left the splitter plate remaining. It works like a charm now.


Another important safety accessory is a properly design push block. A push stick does only one thing, ... push forward. However, a push block can also hold the work down and in toward the fence when used properly.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 06:12 AM
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That fence you have on the saw looks a lot like the Craftsman 2424. It does not have the 2424 on the top, but it looks the same. I have the 2424 on my saw and it is a good fence. I know there are at least a couple of more owners of 2424's on here because they have asked me to send then a copy of the manual.


George
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post #10 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 07:43 AM
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Here's the 2424 Align a Rip fence

TYPO in post number 8 above. Should read "I've owned 4 or 5 others since then " ..... not 45!


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Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
That fence you have on the saw looks a lot like the Craftsman 2424. It does not have the 2424 on the top, but it looks the same. I have the 2424 on my saw and it is a good fence. I know there are at least a couple of more owners of 2424's on here because they have asked me to send then a copy of the manual.


George

This image is from Ebay for a Craftsman 2424 Align A Rip fence:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-A...8AAOSwKJZbJVZp



This one also:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-A...cAAOSwj0RbFRWG


Some had red controls:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-1...IAAOSwZNBbBssl


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-20-2018 at 08:18 AM.
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post #11 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
My first Craftsman table saw was purchased in 1960, high school graduation gift money. I've owned 45 other since then, still have 4 of them which work just fine. The fences have been replaced because "The fence is the heart of the table saw". Not the motor, not the blade, but the fence. WHY? Because it is the most used control/device on the table saw, which is used primarily for ripping, hence it's called a "rip fence".

There was a period where Craftsman made crappy fences that locked on the both ends of table rather than on the front rail as the newer ones do. The Biesemeyer is the workhorse of the industry when it comes to fences, virtually indestructible and as accurate as you'll ever need. Granted, it won't do things an Incra will, but those operations are very advanced. FYI, I own 2 Biesemeyer fences on 2 different table saw and love them. My other fences are Delta Unifences and I like them a lot also. They are completely different in design with the exception they lock entirely on the front rail. They can be adjusted easily to align parallel with the miter slots which is the "reference standard" on the table saw, because they never change position and has no means of adjustment. like the trunnions or then fence.

If you want to "improve" that saw, by all means get the best fence you can afford, because that is about the only thing that matters. A bigger HP motor, may help if you are pushing the limits of cutting depth. A better belt and steel pulleys will reduce vibration. An outfeed table is the single most important safety accessory you acn ever add to a table saw, again my opinion. WHY? Because it supports the workpiece and the cut off after making the cut, so there is no need for you to reach around or over a spinning blade endangering your self trying to catch them before they fall to the floor. That is a big NO-NO!

A splitter or riving knife probably came with the saw and is part of the blade guard ion some saws, like my older Craftsman 12" ones. A splitter is another very important safety device that will all but prevent kickbacks. If you have one put it on the saw. I removed mine for many years because the blade cover was always in the way and I couldn't deal with it. Then after a few kickbacks. I drilled out the plastic cover and anti-kickback pawls and just left the splitter plate remaining. It works like a charm now.


Another important safety accessory is a properly design push block. A push stick does only one thing, ... push forward. However, a push block can also hold the work down and in toward the fence when used properly.


Thank you for the information I definitely will look at all my options I do need an outfeed table and will look into a better belt and steel pulley and I do have the anti kickback pawls attached and I have some plastic push sticks that do seem to do the job as well...push.


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post #12 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
TYPO in post number 8 above. Should read "I've owned 4 or 5 others since then " ..... not 45!





This image is from Ebay for a Craftsman 2424 Align A Rip fence:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-A...8AAOSwKJZbJVZp



This one also:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-A...cAAOSwj0RbFRWG


Some had red controls:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-1...IAAOSwZNBbBssl



Yep I believe that is the same one. Itís not terrible but would like a better fence set up.


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post #13 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 03:45 PM
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I sometimes have the same problem. I get an itch to spend money even though it is not necessary . There are any number of items lying around unused in my garage.


George
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post #14 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I sometimes have the same problem. I get an itch to spend money even though it is not necessary . There are any number of items lying around unused in my garage.


George


Yeah my wife hates me for that lol


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post #15 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 07:28 PM
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The fences in the link either will fit most saws however they are designed for a saw table which is 27" from front to back. It won't fit these little portable saws.
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post #16 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The fences in the link either will fit most saws however they are designed for a saw table which is 27" from front to back. It won't fit these little portable saws.


Iíll just stick with the one I have. Itís not terrible but maybe down the road Iíll just get another brand new table saw.


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post #17 of 17 Old 06-20-2018, 10:05 PM
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Now you're talkin' ...

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I’ll just stick with the one I have. It’s not terrible but maybe down the road I’ll just get another brand new table saw.


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For around $1500 or so you can get a 3 HP (actual 220 V) Grizzly G01023 with a great fence and the latest riving knife and safety accessories like this:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3...le-Saw/G1023RL



That's about $1000 more than you would have spent on the Incra fence.

AND for under $1000 you can get this hybrid 10" 2 HP Grizzly. I have the Craftsman version and it is a fine saw:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-H...d-Fence/G0771Z

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-20-2018 at 10:10 PM.
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